with a thud； until there is a yellow mass of them。 Shouting； scolding； singing； and braying； all come up to me a little mellowed。 The disorder is not so great as on the opera stage of San Carlo in Naples； and the effect is much more pleasing。
This settlement； the marina； under the cliff； used to extend along the shore； and a good road ran down there close by the water。 The rock has split off； and covered it； and perhaps the shore has sunk。 They tell me that those who dig down in the edge of the shallow water find sunken walls； and the remains of old foundations of Roman workmanship。 People who wander there pick up bits of marble； serpentine； and malachite；remains of the palaces that long ago fell into the sea； and have not left even the names of their owners and builders；…the ancient loafers who idled away their days as everybody must in this seductive spot。 Not far from here； they point out the veritable caves of the Sirens； who have now shut up house； and gone away； like the rest of the nobility。 If I had been a mariner in their day； I should have made no effort to sail by and away from their soothing shore。
I went； one day； through a long； sloping arch； near the sailors' Chapel of St。 Antonino； past a pretty shrine of the Virgin； down the zigzag path to this little marina； but it is better to be content with looking at it from above； and imagining how delightful it would be to push off in one of the little tubs of boats。 Sometimes； at night； I hear the fishermen coming home； singing in their lusty fashion； and I think it is a good haven to arrive at。 I never go down to search for stones on the beach： I like to believe that there are great treasures there； which I might find； and I know that the green and brown and spotty appearance of the water is caused by the showing through of the pavements of courts； and marble floors of palaces； which might vanish if I went nearer； such a place of illusion is this。
The Villa Nardi stands in pleasant relations to Vesuvius； which is just across the bay； and is not so useless as it has been represented； it is our weather…sign and prophet。 When the white plume on his top floats inland； that is one sort of weather； when it streams out to sea； that is another。 But I can never tell which is which： nor in my experience does it much matter； for it seems impossible for Sorrento to do anything but woo us with gentle weather。 But the use of Vesuvius； after all； is to furnish us a background for the violet light at sundown； when the villages at its foot gleam like a silver fringe。 I have become convinced of one thing： it is always best when you build a house to have it front toward a volcano； if you can。 There is just that lazy activity about a volcano； ordinarily； that satisfies your demand for something that is not exactly dead； and yet does not disturb you。
Sometimes when I wake in the night；though I don't know why one ever wakes in the night； or the daytime either here；I hear the bell of the convent； which is in our demesne；a convent which is suppressed； and where I hear； when I pass in the morning； the humming of a school。 At first I tried to count the hour； but when the bell went on to strike seventeen； and even twenty…one o'clock； the absurdity of the thing came over me； and I wondered whether it was some frequent call to prayer for a feeble band of sisters remaining； some reminder of midnight penance and vigil； or whether it was not something more ghostly than that； and was not responded to by shades of nuns； who were wont to look out from their narrow latticed windows upon these same gardens； as long ago as when the beautiful Queen Joanna used to come down here to repentif she ever did repentof her wanton ways in Naples。
On one side of the garden is a suppressed monastery。 The narrow front towards the sea has a secluded little balcony； where I like to fancy the poor orphaned souls used to steal out at night for a breath of fresh air； and perhaps to see； as I did one dark evening； Naples with its lights like a conflagration on the horizon。 Upon the tiles of the parapet are cheerful devices； the crossbones tied with a cord； and the like。 How many heavy…hearted recluses have stood in that secluded nook； and been tempted by the sweet； lulling sound of the waves below； how many have paced along this narrow terrace； and felt like prisoners who wore paths in the stone floor where they trod； and how many stupid louts have walked there； insensible to all the charm of it！
If I pass into the Tramontano garden； it is not to escape the presence of history； or to get into the modern world； where travelers are arriving； and where there is the bustle and proverbial discontent of those who travel to enjoy themselves。 In the pretty garden； which is a constant surprise of odd nooks and sunny hiding…places； with ruins； and most luxuriant ivy； is a little cottage where； I am told in confidence； the young king of Bavaria slept three nights not very long ago。 I hope he slept well。 But more important than the sleep； or even death； of a king； is the birth of a poet； I take it； and within this inclosure； on the eleventh day of March； 1541； Torquato Tasso； most melancholy of men； first saw the light； and here was born his noble sister Cornelia； the descendants of whose union with the cavalier Spasiano still live here； and in a manner keep the memory of the poet green with the present generation。 I am indebted to a gentleman who is of this lineage for many favors； and for precise information as to the position in the house that stood here of the very room in which Tasso was born。 It is also minutely given in a memoir of Tasso and his family； by Bartolommeo Capasso； whose careful researches have disproved the slipshod statements of the guidebooks； that the poet was born in a house which is still standing； farther to the west； and that the room has fallen into the sea。 The descendant of the sister pointed out to me the spot on the terrace of the Tramontano where the room itself was； when the house still stood； and； of course； seeing is believing。 The sun shone full upon it； as we stood there； and the air was full of the scent of tropical fruit and just…coming blossoms。 One could not desire a more tranquil scene of advent into life； and the wandering； broken…hearted author of 〃Jerusalem Delivered 〃 never found at court or palace any retreat so soothing as that offered him here by his steadfast sister。
If I were an antiquarian； I think I should have had Tasso born at the Villa Nardi； where I like best to stay； and where I find traces of many pilgrims from other countries。 Here； in a little corner room on the terrace； Mrs。 Stowe dreamed and wrote； and I expect； every morning； as I take my morning sun here by the gate； Agnes of Sorrento will come down the sweet…scented path with a basket of oranges on her head。
SEA AND SHORE
It is not always easy； when one stands upon the highlands which encircle the Piano di Sorrento； in some conditions of the atmosphere； to tell where the sea ends and the sky begins。 It seems。 practicable； at such times； for one to take ship and sail up into heaven。 I have often； indeed； seen white sails climbing up there； and fishing…boats； at secure anchor I suppose； riding apparently like balloons in the hazy air。 Sea and air and land here are all kin； I suspect； and have certain immaterial qualities in common。 The contours of the shores and the outlines of the hills are as graceful as the mobile waves； and if there is anywhere ruggedness and sharpness； the atmosphere throws a friendly veil over it； and tones all that is inharmonious into the repose of beauty。
The atmosphere is really something more than a medium： it is a drapery； woven； one could affirm； with colors； or dipped in oriental dyes。 One might account thus for the prismatic colors I have often seen on the horizon at noon； when the sun was pouring down floods of clear golden light。 The simple light here； if one could ever represent it by pen； pencil； or brush； would draw the world hither to bathe in it。 It is not thin sunshine； but a royal profusion； a golden substance； a transforming quality； a vesture of splendor for all these Mediterranean shores。
The most comprehensive idea of Sorrento and the great plain on which it stands； imbedded almost out of sight in foliage； we obtained one day from our boat； as we put out round the Capo di Sorrento； and stood away for Capri。 There was not wind enough for sails； but there were chopping waves； and swell enough to toss us about； and to produce bright flashes of light far out at sea。 The red…shirted rowers silently bent to their long sweeps； and I lay in the tossing bow； and studied the high； receding shore。 The picture is simple； a precipice of rock or earth； faced with masonry in spots； almost of uniform height from point to point of the little bay； except where a deep gorge has split the rock； and comes to the sea； forming a cove； where a cluster of rude buildings is likely to gather。 Along the precipice； which now juts and now recedes a little； are villas； hotels； old convents； gardens； and groves。 I can see steps and galleries cut in the face of the cliff； and caves and caverns； natural and artificial： for one can cut this tufa w