Perhaps no direct road to and from any city on the world's surface
is subject to sharper fatigue while it lasts。 Journeying by this
route also； the traveller leaves San Jose mounted on his mule； and
so mounted he makes his way through the vast primeval forests down
to the banks of the Serapiqui river。 That there is a track for him
is of course true； but it is simply a track； and during nine months
of the twelve is so deep in mud that the mules sink in it to their
bellies。 Then； when the river has been reached； the traveller seats
him in his canoe； and for two days is paddled down；down along the
Serapiqui； into the San Juan River； and down along the San Juan till
he reaches Greytown； passing one night at some hut on the river
side。 At Greytown he waits for the steamer which will carry him his
first stage on his road towards Southampton。 He must be a
connoisseur in disagreeables of every kind who can say with any
precision whether Greytown or Punt' Arenas is the better place for a
week's sojourn。
For a full month Mr。 Arkwright would not give way to his wife。 At
first he all but conquered her by declaring that the Serapiqui
journey would be dangerous for the baby； but she heard from some one
that it could be made less fatiguing for the baby than the other
route。 A baby had been carried down in a litter strapped on to a
mule's back。 A guide at the mule's head would be necessary； and
that was all。 When once in her boat the baby would be as well as in
her cradle。 What purpose cannot a woman gain by perseverance？ Her
purpose in this instance Mrs。 Arkwright did at last gain by
persevering。
And then their preparations for the journey went on with much
flurrying and hot haste。 To us at home； who live and feel our life
every day； the manufacture of endless baby…linen and the packing of
mountains of clothes does not give an idea of much pleasurable
excitement； but at San Jose； where there was scarcely motion enough
in existence to prevent its waters from becoming foul with
stagnation； this packing of baby…linen was delightful； and for a
month or so the days went by with happy wings。
But by degrees reports began to reach both Arkwright and his wife as
to this new route； which made them uneasy。 The wet season had been
prolonged； and even though they might not be deluged by rain
themselves； the path would be in such a state of mud as to render
the labour incessant。 One or two people declared that the road was
unfit at any time for a woman；and then the river would be much
swollen。 These tidings did not reach Arkwright and his wife
together； or at any rate not till late amidst their preparations； or
a change might still have been made。 As it was； after all her
entreaties； Mrs。 Arkwright did not like to ask him again to alter
his plans； and he； having altered them once； was averse to change
them again。 So things went on till the mules and the boats had been
hired； and things had gone so far that no change could then be made
without much cost and trouble。
During the last ten days of their sojourn at San Jose； Mrs。
Arkwright had lost all that appearance of joy which had cheered up
her sweet face during the last few months。 Terror at that terrible
journey obliterated in her mind all the happiness which had arisen
from the hope of being soon at home。 She was thoroughly cowed by
the danger to be encountered； and would gladly have gone down to
Punt' Arenas； had it been now possible that she could so arrange it。
It rained； and rained； and still rained； when there was now only a
week from the time they started。 Oh！ if they could only wait for
another month！ But this she said to no one。 After what had passed
between her and her husband； she had not the heart to say such words
to him。 Arkwright himself was a man not given to much talking； a
silent thoughtful man； stern withal in his outward bearing； but
tender…hearted and loving in his nature。 The sweet young wife who
had left all； and come with him out to that dull distant place； was
very dear to him；dearer than she herself was aware； and in these
days he was thinking much of her coming troubles。 Why had he given
way to her foolish prayers？ Ah； why indeed？ And thus the last few
days of their sojourn in San Jose passed away from them。 Once or
twice during these days she did speak out； expressing her fears。
Her feelings were too much for her； and she could not restrain
herself。 〃Poor mamma；〃 she said； 〃I shall never see her！〃 And then
again； 〃Harry； I know I shall never reach home alive。〃
〃Fanny； my darling； that is nonsense。〃 But in order that his spoken
word might not sound stern to her； he took her in his arms and
kissed her。
〃You must behave well； Fanny；〃 he said to her the day before they
started。 Though her heart was then very low within her； she
promised him that she would do her best； and then she made a great
resolution。 Though she should be dying on the road； she would not
complain beyond the absolute necessity of her nature。 She fully
recognised his thoughtful tender kindness； for though he thus
cautioned her； he never told her that the dangers which she feared
were the result of her own choice。 He never threw in her teeth
those prayers which she had made； in yielding to which he knew that
he had been weak。
Then came the morning of their departure。 The party of travellers
consisted of four besides the baby。 There was Mr。 Arkwright； his
wife； and an English nurse； who was going to England with them； and
her brother； Abel Ring； who was to accompany them as far as the
Serapiqui River。 When they had reached that； the real labour of the
journey would be over。
They had eight mules； four for the four travellers； one for the
baby； a spare mule laden simply with blankets； so that Mrs。
Arkwright might change in order that she should not be fatigued by
the fatigue of her beast； and two for their luggage。 The portion of
their baggage had already been sent off by Punt' Arenas； and would
meet them at the other side of the Isthmus of Panama。
For the last four days the rain had ceased；had ceased at any rate
at San Jose。 Those who knew the country well； would know that it
might still be raining over those vast forests； but now as the
matter was settled； they would hope for the best。 On that morning
on which they started the sun shone fairly； and they accepted this
as an omen of good。 Baby seemed to lay comfortably on her pile of
blankets on the mule's back； and the face of the tall Indian guide
who took his place at that mule's head pleased the anxious mother。
〃Not leave him ever；〃 he said in Spanish； laying his hand on the
cord which was fastened to the beast's head； and not for one moment
did he leave his charge； though the labour of sticking close to him
was very great。
They had four attendants or guides； all of whom made the journey on
foot。 That they were all men of mixed race was probable； but three
of them would have been called Spaniards； Spaniards； that is； of
Costa Rica； and the other would be called an Indian。 One of the
Spaniards was the leader； or chief man of the party； but the others
seemed to stand on an equal footing with each other； and indeed the
place of greatest care had been given to the Indian。
For the first four or five miles their route lay along the high road
which leads from San Jose to Punt' Arenas； and so far a group of
acquaintances followed them； all mounted on mules。 Here； where the
ways forked； their road leading through the great forests to the
Atlantic； they separated； and many tears were shed on each side。
What might be the future life of the Arkwrights had not been
absolutely fixed； but there was a strong hope on their part that
they might never be forced to return to Costa Rica。 Those from whom
they now parted had not seemed to be dear to them in any especial
degree while they all lived together in the same small town； seeing
each other day by day； but now；now that they might never meet
again； a certain love sprang up for the old familiar faces； and
women kissed each other who hitherto had hardly cared to enter each
other's houses。
And then the party of the Arkwrights again started； and its steady
work began。 In the whole of the first day the way beneath their
feet was tolerably good； and the weather continued fine。 It was one
long gradual ascent from the plain where the roads parted； but there
was no real labour in travelling。 Mrs。 Arkwright rode beside her
baby's mule； at the head of which the Indian always walked； and the
two men went together in front。 The husband had found that his wife
would prefer this； as long as the road allowed of such an
arrangement。 Her heart was too full to admit of much speaking； and
so they went on in silence。
The first night was passed in a hut by the roadside； which seemed to
be deserted；a hut or rancho as it is called in that country。
Their food they had； of course； brought with them； and here； by
common consent； they endeavoured in some sort to make themselves
merry。
〃Fanny；〃 Arkwright said to her； 〃it is not so bad after all； eh； my
darling？〃
〃No；〃 she answered； 〃only that the mule tires one so。 Will all the
days be as lon