chimney： we entered it； and found it neither wanting repair nor
inhabitants； but to the farmers； who now possess it； the chimney is
of no great value； for their fire was made on the floor； in the
middle of the room； and notwithstanding the dignity of their
mansion； they rejoiced； like their neighbours； in the comforts of
smoke。
It is observed； that ecclesiastical colleges are always in the most
pleasant and fruitful places。 While the world allowed the monks
their choice； it is surely no dishonour that they chose well。 This
Island is remarkably fruitful。 The village near the churches is
said to contain seventy families； which； at five in a family； is
more than a hundred inhabitants to a mile。 There are perhaps other
villages： yet both corn and cattle are annually exported。
But the fruitfulness of Iona is now its whole prosperity。 The
inhabitants are remarkably gross； and remarkably neglected： I know
not if they are visited by any Minister。 The Island； which was
once the metropolis of learning and piety； has now no school for
education； nor temple for worship； only two inhabitants that can
speak English； and not one that can write or read。
The people are of the clan of Maclean； and though Sir Allan had not
been in the place for many years； he was received with all the
reverence due to their Chieftain。 One of them being sharply
reprehended by him； for not sending him some rum； declared after
his departure； in Mr。 Boswell's presence； that he had no design of
disappointing him； 'for；' said he； 'I would cut my bones for him；
and if he had sent his dog for it； he should have had it。'
When we were to depart； our boat was left by the ebb at a great
distance from the water； but no sooner did we wish it afloat； than
the islanders gathered round it； and； by the union of many hands；
pushed it down the beach； every man who could contribute his help
seemed to think himself happy in the opportunity of being； for a
moment； useful to his Chief。
We now left those illustrious ruins； by which Mr。 Boswell was much
affected； nor would I willingly be thought to have looked upon them
without some emotion。 Perhaps； in the revolutions of the world；
Iona may be sometime again the instructress of the Western Regions。
It was no long voyage to Mull； where； under Sir Allan's protection；
we landed in the evening； and were entertained for the night by Mr。
Maclean； a Minister that lives upon the coast； whose elegance of
conversation； and strength of judgment； would make him conspicuous
in places of greater celebrity。 Next day we dined with Dr。
Maclean； another physician； and then travelled on to the house of a
very powerful Laird； Maclean of Lochbuy； for in this country every
man's name is Maclean。
Where races are thus numerous； and thus combined； none but the
Chief of a clan is addressed by his name。 The Laird of Dunvegan is
called Macleod； but other gentlemen of the same family are
denominated by the places where they reside； as Raasa； or Talisker。
The distinction of the meaner people is made by their Christian
names。 In consequence of this practice； the late Laird of
Macfarlane； an eminent genealogist； considered himself as
disrespectfully treated； if the common addition was applied to him。
Mr。 Macfarlane； said he； may with equal propriety be said to many；
but I； and I only； am Macfarlane。
Our afternoon journey was through a country of such gloomy
desolation； that Mr。 Boswell thought no part of the Highlands
equally terrifick； yet we came without any difficulty； at evening；
to Lochbuy； where we found a true Highland Laird； rough and
haughty； and tenacious of his dignity； who； hearing my name；
inquired whether I was of the Johnstons of Glencroe； or of
Ardnamurchan。
Lochbuy has； like the other insular Chieftains； quitted the castle
that sheltered his ancestors； and lives near it； in a mansion not
very spacious or splendid。 I have seen no houses in the Islands
much to be envied for convenience or magnificence； yet they bare
testimony to the progress of arts and civility； as they shew that
rapine and surprise are no longer dreaded； and are much more
commodious than the ancient fortresses。
The castles of the Hebrides； many of which are standing； and many
ruined； were always built upon points of land； on the margin of the
sea。 For the choice of this situation there must have been some
general reason； which the change of manners has left in obscurity。
They were of no use in the days of piracy； as defences of the
coast； for it was equally accessible in other places。 Had they
been sea…marks or light…houses； they would have been of more use to
the invader than the natives； who could want no such directions of
their own waters： for a watch…tower； a cottage on a hill would
have been better； as it would have commanded a wider view。
If they be considered merely as places of retreat； the situation
seems not well chosen； for the Laird of an Island is safest from
foreign enemies in the center； on the coast he might be more
suddenly surprised than in the inland parts； and the invaders； if
their enterprise miscarried； might more easily retreat。 Some
convenience； however； whatever it was； their position on the shore
afforded； for uniformity of practice seldom continues long without
good reason。
A castle in the Islands is only a single tower of three or four
stories； of which the walls are sometimes eight or nine feet thick；
with narrow windows； and close winding stairs of stone。 The top
rises in a cone； or pyramid of stone； encompassed by battlements。
The intermediate floors are sometimes frames of timber； as in
common houses； and sometimes arches of stone； or alternately stone
and timber； so that there was very little danger from fire。 In the
center of every floor； from top to bottom； is the chief room； of no
great extent； round which there are narrow cavities； or recesses；
formed by small vacuities； or by a double wall。 I know not whether
there be ever more than one fire…place。 They had not capacity to
contain many people； or much provision； but their enemies could
seldom stay to blockade them； for if they failed in the first
attack； their next care was to escape。
The walls were always too strong to be shaken by such desultory
hostilities； the windows were too narrow to be entered； and the
battlements too high to be scaled。 The only danger was at the
gates； over which the wall was built with a square cavity； not
unlike a chimney； continued to the top。 Through this hollow the
defendants let fall stones upon those who attempted to break the
gate； and poured down water； perhaps scalding water； if the attack
was made with fire。 The castle of Lochbuy was secured by double
doors； of which the outer was an iron grate。
In every castle is a well and a dungeon。 The use of the well is
evident。 The dungeon is a deep subterraneous cavity； walled on the
sides； and arched on the top； into which the descent is through a
narrow door； by a ladder or a rope； so that it seems impossible to
escape； when the rope or ladder is drawn up。 The dungeon was； I
suppose； in war； a prison for such captives as were treated with
severity； and； in peace； for such delinquents as had committed
crimes within the Laird's jurisdiction； for the mansions of many
Lairds were； till the late privation of their privileges； the halls
of justice to their own tenants。
As these fortifications were the productions of mere necessity；
they are built only for safety； with little regard to convenience；
and with none to elegance or pleasure。 It was sufficient for a
Laird of the Hebrides； if he had a strong house； in which he could
hide his wife and children from the next clan。 That they are not
large nor splendid is no wonder。 It is not easy to find how they
were raised； such as they are； by men who had no money； in
countries where the labourers and artificers could scarcely be fed。
The buildings in different parts of the Island shew their degrees
of wealth and power。 I believe that for all the castles which I
have seen beyond the Tweed； the ruins yet remaining of some one of
those which the English built in Wales； would supply materials。
These castles afford another evidence that the fictions of
romantick chivalry had for their basis the real manners of the
feudal times； when every Lord of a seignory lived in his hold
lawless and unaccountable； with all the licentiousness and
insolence of uncontested superiority and unprincipled power。 The
traveller； whoever he might be； coming to the fortified habitation
of a Chieftain； would； probably； have been interrogated from the
battlements； admitted with caution at the gate； introduced to a
petty Monarch； fierce with habitual hostility； and vigilant with
ignorant suspicion； who； according to his general temper； or
accidental humour； would have seated a stranger as his guest at the
table； or as a spy confined him in the dungeon。
Lochbuy means the Yellow Lake； which is the name given to an inlet
of the sea； upon which the castle of Mr。 Maclean stands。 The
reason of the appellation we did not learn。
We were now to leave the Hebrides； where we had spent some weeks
with sufficient amusement