scarlet…covered thongs of the finely lacquered clogs； which she
puts on when she stands on the stone steps to receive her guests；
to pass between it and the smaller toes。 All the other little
ladies were dressed in the same style； and all looked like ill…
executed dolls。 She met them with very formal but graceful bows。
When they were all assembled； she and her very graceful mother；
squatting before each； presented tea and sweetmeats on lacquer
trays； and then they played at very quiet and polite games till
dusk。 They addressed each other by their names with the honorific
prefix O； only used in the case of women； and the respectful affix
San； thus Haru becomes O…Haru…San； which is equivalent to 〃Miss。〃
A mistress of a house is addressed as O…Kami…San； and O…Kusuma
something like 〃my lady〃is used to married ladies。 Women have no
surnames； thus you do not speak of Mrs。 Saguchi； but of the wife of
Saguchi San； and you would address her as O…Kusuma。 Among the
children's names were Haru； Spring； Yuki； Snow； Hana； Blossom；
Kiku； Chrysanthemum； Gin； Silver。
One of their games was most amusing； and was played with some
spirit and much dignity。 It consisted in one child feigning
sickness and another playing the doctor； and the pompousness and
gravity of the latter； and the distress and weakness of the former；
were most successfully imitated。 Unfortunately the doctor killed
his patient； who counterfeited the death…sleep very effectively
with her whitened face； and then followed the funeral and the
mourning。 They dramatise thus weddings； dinner…parties； and many
other of the events of life。 The dignity and self…possession of
these children are wonderful。 The fact is that their initiation
into all that is required by the rules of Japanese etiquette begins
as soon as they can speak； so that by the time they are ten years
old they know exactly what to do and avoid under all possible
circumstances。 Before they went away tea and sweetmeats were again
handed round； and； as it is neither etiquette to refuse them or to
leave anything behind that you have once taken； several of the
small ladies slipped the residue into their capacious sleeves。 On
departing the same formal courtesies were used as on arriving。
Yuki； Haru's mother； speaks； acts； and moves with a charming
gracefulness。 Except at night； and when friends drop in to
afternoon tea； as they often do； she is always either at domestic
avocations； such as cleaning； sewing； or cooking； or planting
vegetables； or weeding them。 All Japanese girls learn to sew and
to make their own clothes； but there are none of the mysteries and
difficulties which make the sewing lesson a thing of dread with us。
The kimono； haori； and girdle； and even the long hanging sleeves；
have only parallel seams； and these are only tacked or basted； as
the garments； when washed； are taken to pieces； and each piece；
after being very slightly stiffened； is stretched upon a board to
dry。 There is no underclothing； with its bands； frills； gussets；
and button…holes； the poorer women wear none； and those above them
wear； like Yuki； an under…dress of a frothy…looking silk crepe； as
simply made as the upper one。 There are circulating libraries
here； as in most villages； and in the evening both Yuki and Haru
read love stories； or accounts of ancient heroes and heroines；
dressed up to suit the popular taste； written in the easiest
possible style。 Ito has about ten volumes of novels in his room；
and spends half the night in reading them。
Yuki's son； a lad of thirteen； often comes to my room to display
his skill in writing the Chinese character。 He is a very bright
boy； and shows considerable talent for drawing。 Indeed； it is only
a short step from writing to drawing。 Giotto's O hardly involved
more breadth and vigour of touch than some of these characters。
They are written with a camel's…hair brush dipped in Indian ink；
instead of a pen； and this boy； with two or three vigorous touches；
produces characters a foot long； such as are mounted and hung as
tablets outside the different shops。 Yuki plays the samisen； which
may be regarded as the national female instrument； and Haru goes to
a teacher daily for lessons on the same。
The art of arranging flowers is taught in manuals； the study of
which forms part of a girl's education； and there is scarcely a day
in which my room is not newly decorated。 It is an education to me；
I am beginning to appreciate the extreme beauty of solitude in
decoration。 In the alcove hangs a kakemono of exquisite beauty； a
single blossoming branch of the cherry。 On one panel of a folding
screen there is a single iris。 The vases which hang so gracefully
on the polished posts contain each a single peony； a single iris； a
single azalea； stalk； leaves； and corollaall displayed in their
full beauty。 Can anything be more grotesque and barbarous than our
〃florists' bouquets；〃 a series of concentric rings of flowers of
divers colours； bordered by maidenhair and a piece of stiff lace
paper； in which stems； leaves； and even petals are brutally
crushed； and the grace and individuality of each flower
systematically destroyed？
Kanaya is the chief man in this village； besides being the leader
of the dissonant squeaks and discords which represent music at the
Shinto festivals； and in some mysterious back region he compounds
and sells drugs。 Since I have been here the beautification of his
garden has been his chief object； and he has made a very
respectable waterfall； a rushing stream； a small lake； a rustic
bamboo bridge； and several grass banks； and has transplanted
several large trees。 He kindly goes out with me a good deal； and；
as he is very intelligent； and Ito is proving an excellent； and； I
think； a faithful interpreter； I find it very pleasant to be here。
They rise at daylight； fold up the wadded quilts or futons on and
under which they have slept； and put them and the wooden pillows；
much like stereoscopes in shape； with little rolls of paper or
wadding on the top； into a press with a sliding door； sweep the
mats carefully； dust all the woodwork and the verandahs； open the
amadowooden shutters which； by sliding in a groove along the edge
of the verandah； box in the whole house at night； and retire into
an ornamental projection in the dayand throw the paper windows
back。 Breakfast follows； then domestic avocations； dinner at one；
and sewing； gardening； and visiting till six； when they take the
evening meal。
Visitors usually arrive soon afterwards； and stay till eleven or
twelve。 Japanese chess； story…telling； and the samisen fill up the
early part of the evening； but later； an agonising performance；
which they call singing； begins； which sounds like the very essence
of heathenishness； and consists mainly in a prolonged vibrating
〃No。〃 As soon as I hear it I feel as if I were among savages。
Sake； or rice beer； is always passed round before the visitors
leave； in little cups with the gods of luck at the bottom of them。
Sake； when heated； mounts readily to the head； and a single small
cup excites the half…witted man…servant to some very foolish
musical performances。 I am sorry to write it； but his master and
mistress take great pleasure in seeing him make a fool of himself；
and Ito； who is from policy a total abstainer； goes into
convulsions of laughter。
One evening I was invited to join the family； and they entertained
me by showing me picture and guide books。 Most Japanese provinces
have their guide…books； illustrated by wood…cuts of the most
striking objects； and giving itineraries； names of yadoyas； and
other local information。 One volume of pictures； very finely
executed on silk； was more than a century old。 Old gold lacquer
and china； and some pieces of antique embroidered silk； were also
produced for my benefit； and some musical instruments of great
beauty； said to be more than two centuries old。 None of these
treasures are kept in the house； but in the kura； or fireproof
storehouse； close by。 The rooms are not encumbered by ornaments； a
single kakemono； or fine piece of lacquer or china； appears for a
few days and then makes way for something else； so they have
variety as well as simplicity； and each object is enjoyed in its
turn without distraction。
Kanaya and his sister often pay me an evening visit； and； with
Brunton's map on the floor； we project astonishing routes to
Niigata； which are usually abruptly abandoned on finding a
mountain…chain in the way with never a road over it。 The life of
these people seems to pass easily enough； but Kanaya deplores the
want of money； he would like to be rich； and intends to build a
hotel for foreigners。
The only vestige of religion in his house is the kamidana； or god…
shelf； on which stands a wooden shrine like a Shinto temple； which
contains the memorial tablets to deceased relations。 Each morning
a sprig of evergreen and a little rice and sake are placed before
it； and every evening a lighted lamp。
LETTER X（Continued）
Darkness visibleNikko ShopsGirls and MatronsNight and Sleep
Parental LoveChildish DocilityHair…dressingSkin Diseases。
I don't wonder that the Japanese