and （as on every occasion） translated what I said into Aino for the
venerable group opposite。 Shinondi then said 〃that he and
Shinrichi； the other Japanese speaker； would tell me all they knew；
but they were but young men； and only knew what was told to them。
They would speak what they believed to be true； but the chief knew
more than they； and when he came back he might tell me differently；
and then I should think that they had spoken lies。〃 I said that no
one who looked into their faces could think that they ever told
lies。 They were very much pleased； and waved their hands and
stroked their beards repeatedly。 Before they told me anything they
begged and prayed that I would not inform the Japanese Government
that they had told me of their customs； or harm might come to them！
For the next two hours； and for two more after supper； I asked them
questions concerning their religion and customs； and again
yesterday for a considerable time； and this morning； after Benri's
return； I went over the same subjects with him； and have also
employed a considerable time in getting about 300 words from them；
which I have spelt phonetically of course； and intend to go over
again when I visit the coast Ainos。 ｛19｝
The process was slow； as both question and answer had to pass
through three languages。 There was a very manifest desire to tell
the truth； and I think that their statements concerning their few
and simple customs may be relied upon。 I shall give what they told
me separately when I have time to write out my notes in an orderly
manner。 I can only say that I have seldom spent a more interesting
evening。
About nine the stew was ready； and the women ladled it into lacquer
bowls with wooden spoons。 The men were served first； but all ate
together。 Afterwards sake； their curse； was poured into lacquer
bowls； and across each bowl a finely…carved 〃sake…stick〃 was laid。
These sticks are very highly prized。 The bowls were waved several
times with an inward motion； then each man took his stick and；
dipping it into the sake； made six libations to the fire and
several to the 〃god〃a wooden post； with a quantity of spiral
white shavings falling from near the top。 The Ainos are not
affected by sake nearly so easily as the Japanese。 They took it
cold； it is true； but each drank about three times as much as would
have made a Japanese foolish； and it had no effect upon them。
After two hours more talk one after another got up and went out；
making profuse salutations to me and to the others。 My candles had
been forgotten； and our seance was held by the fitful light of the
big logs on the fire； aided by a succession of chips of birch bark；
with which a woman replenished a cleft stick that was stuck into
the fire…hole。 I never saw such a strangely picturesque sight as
that group of magnificent savages with the fitful firelight on
their faces； and for adjuncts the flare of the torch； the strong
lights； the blackness of the recesses of the room and of the roof；
at one end of which the stars looked in； and the row of savage
women in the backgroundeastern savagery and western civilisation
met in this hut； savagery giving and civilisation receiving； the
yellow…skinned Ito the connecting…link between the two； and the
representative of a civilisation to which our own is but an 〃infant
of days。〃
I found it very exciting； and when all had left crept out into the
starlight。 The lodges were all dark and silent； and the dogs； mild
like their masters； took no notice of me。 The only sound was the
rustle of a light breeze through the surrounding forest。 The verse
came into my mind； 〃It is not the will of your Father which is in
heaven that one of these little ones should perish。〃 Surely these
simple savages are children； as children to be judged； may we not
hope as children to be saved through Him who came 〃not to judge the
world； but to save the world〃？
I crept back again and into my mosquito net； and suffered not from
fleas or mosquitoes； but from severe cold。 Shinondi conversed with
Ito for some time in a low musical voice； having previously asked
if it would keep me from sleeping。 No Japanese ever intermitted
his ceaseless chatter at any hour of the night for a similar
reason。 Later； the chief's principal wife； Noma； stuck a triply…
cleft stick in the fire…hole； put a potsherd with a wick and some
fish…oil upon it； and by the dim light of this rude lamp sewed
until midnight at a garment of bark cloth which she was ornamenting
for her lord with strips of blue cloth； and when I opened my eyes
the next morning she was at the window sewing by the earliest
daylight。 She is the most intelligent…looking of all the women；
but looks sad and almost stern； and speaks seldom。 Although she is
the principal wife of the chief she is not happy； for she is
childless； and I thought that her sad look darkened into something
evil as the other wife caressed a fine baby boy。 Benri seems to me
something of a brute； and the mother…in…law obviously holds the
reins of government pretty tight。 After sewing till midnight she
swept the mats with a bunch of twigs； and then crept into her bed
behind a hanging mat。 For a moment in the stillness I felt a
feeling of panic； as if I were incurring a risk by being alone
among savages； but I conquered it； and； after watching the fire
till it went out； fell asleep till I was awoke by the severe cold
of the next day's dawn。
LETTER XXXVI（Continued）
A Supposed Act of WorshipParental TendernessMorning Visits
Wretched CultivationHonesty and GenerosityA 〃Dug…out〃Female
OccupationsThe Ancient FateA New ArrivalA Perilous
PrescriptionThe Shrine of YoshitsuneThe Chief's Return。
When I crept from under my net much benumbed with cold； there were
about eleven people in the room； who all made their graceful
salutation。 It did not seem as if they had ever heard of washing；
for； when water was asked for； Shinondi brought a little in a
lacquer bowl； and held it while I bathed my face and hands；
supposing the performance to be an act of worship！ I was about to
throw some cold tea out of the window by my bed when he arrested me
with an anxious face； and I saw； what I had not observed before；
that there was a god at that windowa stick with festoons of
shavings hanging from it； and beside it a dead bird。 The Ainos
have two meals a day； and their breakfast was a repetition of the
previous night's supper。 We all ate together； and I gave the
children the remains of my rice； and it was most amusing to see
little creatures of three； four； and five years old； with no other
clothing than a piece of pewter hanging round their necks； first
formally asking leave of the parents before taking the rice； and
then waving their hands。 The obedience of the children is
instantaneous。 Their parents are more demonstrative in their
affection than the Japanese are； caressing them a good deal； and
two of the men are devoted to children who are not their own。
These little ones are as grave and dignified as Japanese children；
and are very gentle。
I went out soon after five； when the dew was glittering in the
sunshine； and the mountain hollow in which Biratori stands was
looking its very best； and the silence of the place； even though
the people were all astir； was as impressive as that of the night
before。 What a strange life！ knowing nothing； hoping nothing；
fearing a little； the need for clothes and food the one motive
principle； sake in abundance the one good！ How very few points of
contact it is possible to have！ I was just thinking so when
Shinondi met me； and took me to his house to see if I could do
anything for a child sorely afflicted with skin disease； and his
extreme tenderness for this very loathsome object made me feel that
human affections were the same among them as with us。 He had
carried it on his back from a village； five miles distant； that
morning； in the hope that it might be cured。 As soon as I entered
he laid a fine mat on the floor； and covered the guest…seat with a
bearskin。 After breakfast he took me to the lodge of the sub…
chief； the largest in the village； 45 feet square； and into about
twenty others all constructed in the same way； but some of them
were not more than 20 feet square。 In all I was received with the
same courtesy； but a few of the people asked Shinondi not to take
me into their houses； as they did not want me to see how poor they
are。 In every house there was the low shelf with more or fewer
curios upon it； but； besides these； none but the barest necessaries
of life； though the skins which they sell or barter every year
would enable them to surround themselves with comforts； were it not
that their gains represent to them sake； and nothing else。 They
are not nomads。 On the contrary； they cling tenaciously to the
sites on which their fathers have lived and died。 But anything
more deplorable than the attempts at cultivation which surround
their lodges could not be seen。 The soil is little better than
white sand； on which without manure they attempt to grow millet；
which is to them in the place of rice； pumpkins； onions； and
tobacco； but the look of their plots is