or the manner of using them。 Dried and pounded bear's liver is
their specific； and they place much reliance on it in colic and
other pains。 They are a healthy race。 In this village of 300
souls； there are no chronically ailing people； nothing but one case
of bronchitis； and some cutaneous maladies among children。 Neither
is there any case of deformity in this and five other large
villages which I have visited； except that of a girl； who has one
leg slightly shorter than the other。
They ferment a kind of intoxicating liquor from the root of a tree；
and also from their own millet and Japanese rice； but Japanese sake
is the one thing that they care about。 They spend all their gains
upon it； and drink it in enormous quantities。 It represents to
them all the good of which they know； or can conceive。 Beastly
intoxication is the highest happiness to which these poor savages
aspire； and the condition is sanctified to them under the fiction
of 〃drinking to the gods。〃 Men and women alike indulge in this
vice。 A few； however； like Pipichari； abstain from it totally；
taking the bowl in their hands； making the libations to the gods；
and then passing it on。 I asked Pipichari why he did not take
sake； and he replied with a truthful terseness； 〃Because it makes
men like dogs。〃
Except the chief； who has two horses； they have no domestic animals
except very large； yellow dogs； which are used in hunting； but are
never admitted within the houses。
The habits of the people； though by no means destitute of decency
and propriety； are not cleanly。 The women bathe their hands once a
day； but any other washing is unknown。 They never wash their
clothes； and wear the same by day and night。 I am afraid to
speculate on the condition of their wealth of coal…black hair。
They may be said to be very dirtyas dirty fully as masses of our
people at home。 Their houses swarm with fleas； but they are not
worse in this respect than the Japanese yadoyas。 The mountain
villages have； however； the appearance of extreme cleanliness；
being devoid of litter； heaps； puddles； and untidiness of all
kinds； and there are no unpleasant odours inside or outside the
houses； as they are well ventilated and smoked； and the salt fish
and meat are kept in the godowns。 The hair and beards of the old
men； instead of being snowy as they ought to be； are yellow from
smoke and dirt。
They have no mode of computing time； and do not know their own
ages。 To them the past is dead； yet； like other conquered and
despised races； they cling to the idea that in some far…off age
they were a great nation。 They have no traditions of internecine
strife； and the art of war seems to have been lost long ago。 I
asked Benri about this matter； and he says that formerly Ainos
fought with spears and knives as well as with bows and arrows； but
that Yoshitsune； their hero god； forbade war for ever； and since
then the two…edged spear； with a shaft nine feet long； has only
been used in hunting bears。
The Japanese Government； of course； exercises the same authority
over the Ainos as over its other subjects； but probably it does not
care to interfere in domestic or tribal matters； and within this
outside limit despotic authority is vested in the chiefs。 The
Ainos live in village communities； and each community has its own
chief； who is its lord paramount。 It appears to me that this
chieftainship is but an expansion of the paternal relation； and
that all the village families are ruled as a unit。 Benri； in whose
house I am； is the chief of Biratori； and is treated by all with
very great deference of manner。 The office is nominally for life；
but if a chief becomes blind； or too infirm to go about； he
appoints a successor。 If he has a 〃smart〃 son； who he thinks will
command the respect of the people； he appoints him； but if not； he
chooses the most suitable man in the village。 The people are
called upon to approve the choice； but their ratification is never
refused。 The office is not hereditary anywhere。
Benri appears to exercise the authority of a very strict father。
His manner to all the men is like that of a master to slaves； and
they bow when they speak to him。 No one can marry without his
approval。 If any one builds a house he chooses the site。 He has
absolute jurisdiction in civil and criminal cases； unless （which is
very rare） the latter should be of sufficient magnitude to be
reported to the Imperial officials。 He compels restitution of
stolen property； and in all cases fixes the fines which are to be
paid by delinquents。 He also fixes the hunting arrangements and
the festivals。 The younger men were obviously much afraid of
incurring his anger in his absence。
An eldest son does not appear to be； as among the Japanese； a
privileged person。 He does not necessarily inherit the house and
curios。 The latter are not divided； but go with the house to the
son whom the father regards as being the 〃smartest。〃 Formal
adoption is practised。 Pipichari is an adopted son； and is likely
to succeed to Benri's property to the exclusion of his own
children。 I cannot get at the word which is translated
〃smartness；〃 but I understand it as meaning general capacity。 The
chief； as I have mentioned before； is allowed three wives among the
mountain Ainos； otherwise authority seems to be his only privilege。
The Ainos have a singular dread of snakes。 Even their bravest fly
from them。 One man says that it is because they know of no cure
for their bite； but there is something more than this； for they
flee from snakes which they know to be harmless。
They have an equal dread of their dead。 Death seems to them very
specially 〃the shadow fear'd of man。〃 When it comes； which it
usually does from bronchitis in old age； the corpse is dressed in
its best clothing； and laid upon a shelf for from one to three
days。 In the case of a woman her ornaments are buried with her；
and in that of a man his knife and sake…stick； and； if he were a
smoker； his smoking apparatus。 The corpse is sewn up with these
things in a mat； and； being slung on poles； is carried to a
solitary grave； where it is laid in a recumbent position。 Nothing
will induce an Aino to go near a grave。 Even if a valuable bird or
animal falls near one； he will not go to pick it up。 A vague dread
is for ever associated with the departed； and no dream of Paradise
ever lights for the Aino the 〃Stygian shades。〃
Benri is； for an Aino； intelligent。 Two years ago Mr。 Dening of
Hakodate came up here and told him that there was but one God who
made us all； to which the shrewd old man replied； 〃If the God who
made you made us； how is it that you are so differentyou so rich；
we so poor？〃 On asking him about the magnificent pieces of lacquer
and inlaying which adorn his curio shelf； he said that they were
his father's； grandfather's； and great…grandfather's at least； and
he thinks they were gifts from the daimiyo of Matsumae soon after
the conquest of Yezo。 He is a grand…looking man； in spite of the
havoc wrought by his intemperate habits。 There is plenty of room
in the house； and this morning； when I asked him to show me the use
of the spear； he looked a truly magnificent savage； stepping well
back with the spear in rest； and then springing forward for the
attack； his arms and legs turning into iron； the big muscles
standing out in knots； his frame quivering with excitement； the
thick hair falling back in masses from his brow； and the fire of
the chase in his eye。 I trembled for my boy； who was the object of
the imaginary onslaught； the passion of sport was so admirably
acted。
As I write； seven of the older men are sitting by the fire。 Their
grey beards fall to their waists in rippled masses； and the slight
baldness of age not only gives them a singularly venerable
appearance； but enhances the beauty of their lofty brows。 I took a
rough sketch of one of the handsomest； and； showing it to him；
asked if he would have it； but instead of being amused or pleased
he showed symptoms of fear； and asked me to burn it； saying it
would bring him bad luck and he should die。 However； Ito pacified
him； and he accepted it； after a Chinese character； which is
understood to mean good luck； had been written upon it； but all the
others begged me not to 〃make pictures〃 of them； except Pipichari；
who lies at my feet like a staghound。
The profusion of black hair； and a curious intensity about their
eyes； coupled with the hairy limbs and singularly vigorous
physique； give them a formidably savage appearance； but the smile；
full of 〃sweetness and light；〃 in which both eyes and mouth bear
part； and the low； musical voice； softer and sweeter than anything
I have previously heard； make me at times forget that they are
savages at all。 The venerable look of these old men harmonises
with the singular dignity and courtesy of their manners； but as I
look at the grand heads； and reflect that the Ainos have never
shown any capacity； and are merely adult children； they seem to
suggest water on the brain rather than intellect。 I am more and
more convinced that the expression of their faces is European。 It
is truthful； straightforw