fore； prolonged till it be perfectly convenient to marry： the intimacy often becomes very tender； and if the lover obtain the privilege of a husband； it can only be termed half by stealth； because the family is wilfully blind。 It happens very rarely that these honorary engagements are dissolved or disregarded； a stigma being attached to a breach of faith which is thought more disgraceful； if not so criminal； as the violation of the marriage…vow。
Do not forget that； in my general observations； I do not pretend to sketch a national character； but merely to note the present state of morals and manners as I trace the progress of the world's improvement。 Because； during my residence in different countries； my principal object has been to take such a dispassionate view of men as will lead me to form a just idea of the nature of man。 And； to deal ingenuously with you； I believe I should have been less severe in the remarks I have made on the vanity and depravity of the French； had I travelled towards the north before I visited France。
The interesting picture frequently drawn of the virtues of a rising people has； I fear； been fallacious； excepting the accounts of the enthusiasm which various public struggles have produced。 We talk of the depravity of the French； and lay a stress on the old age of the nation； yet where has more virtuous enthusiasm been displayed than during the two last years by the common people of France； and in their armies？ I am obliged sometimes to recollect the numberless instances which I have either witnessed； or heard well authenticated； to balance the account of horrors； alas！ but too true。 I am； therefore； inclined to believe that the gross vices which I have always seem allied with simplicity of manners； are the concomitants of ignorance。
What； for example； has piety； under the heathen or Christian system； been； but a blind faith in things contrary to the principles of reason？ And could poor reason make considerable advances when it was reckoned the highest degree of virtue to do violence to its dictates？ Lutherans； preaching reformation； have built a reputation for sanctity on the same foundation as the Catholics； yet I do not perceive that a regular attendance on public worship； and their other observances； make them a whit more true in their affections； or honest in their private transactions。 It seems； indeed； quite as easy to prevaricate with religious injunctions as human laws； when the exercise of their reason does not lead people to acquire principles for themselves to be the criterion of all those they receive from others。
If travelling； as the completion of a liberal education； were to be adopted on rational grounds； the northern states ought to be visited before the more polished parts of Europe； to serve as the elements even of the knowledge of manners； only to be acquired by tracing the various shades in different countries。 But； when visiting distant climes； a momentary social sympathy should not be allowed to influence the conclusions of the understanding； for hospitality too frequently leads travellers； especially those who travel in search of pleasure； to make a false estimate of the virtues of a nation； which； I am now convinced； bear an exact proportion to their scientific improvements。
Adieu。
LETTER XX。
I have formerly censured the French for their extreme attachment to theatrical exhibitions； because I thought that they tended to render them vain and unnatural characters； but I must acknowledge； especially as women of the town never appear in the Parisian as at our theatres； that the little saving of the week is more usefully expended there every Sunday than in porter or brandy； to intoxicate or stupify the mind。 The common people of France have a great superiority over that class in every other country on this very score。 It is merely the sobriety of the Parisians which renders their fetes more interesting； their gaiety never becoming disgusting or dangerous； as is always the case when liquor circulates。 Intoxication is the pleasure of savages； and of all those whose employments rather exhaust their animal spirits than exercise their faculties。 Is not this； in fact； the vice； both in England and the northern states of Europe； which appears to be the greatest impediment to general improvement？ Drinking is here the principal relaxation of the men； including smoking； but the women are very abstemious； though they have no public amusements as a substitute。 I ought to except one theatre； which appears more than is necessary； for when I was there it was not half full； and neither the ladies nor actresses displayed much fancy in their dress。
The play was founded on the story of the 〃Mock Doctor；〃 and； from the gestures of the servants； who were the best actors； I should imagine contained some humour。 The farce； termed ballet； was a kind of pantomime； the childish incidents of which were sufficient to show the state of the dramatic art in Denmark； and the gross taste of the audience。 A magician； in the disguise of a tinker； enters a cottage where the women are all busy ironing； and rubs a dirty frying…pan against the linen。 The women raise a hue…and…cry； and dance after him； rousing their husbands； who join in the dance； but get the start of them in the pursuit。 The tinker； with the frying… pan for a shield； renders them immovable； and blacks their cheeks。 Each laughs at the other； unconscious of his own appearance； meanwhile the women enter to enjoy the sport； 〃the rare fun；〃 with other incidents of the same species。
The singing was much on a par with the dancing； the one as destitute of grace as the other of expression； but the orchestra was well filled； the instrumental being far superior to the vocal music。
I have likewise visited the public library and museum； as well as the palace of Rosembourg。 This palace； now deserted； displays a gloomy kind of grandeur throughout； for the silence of spacious apartments always makes itself to be felt； I at least feel it； and I listen for the sound of my footsteps as I have done at midnight to the ticking of the death…watch； encouraging a kind of fanciful superstition。 Every object carried me back to past times； and impressed the manners of the age forcibly on my mind。 In this point of view the preservation of old palaces and their tarnished furniture is useful； for they may be considered as historical documents。
The vacuum left by departed greatness was everywhere observable； whilst the battles and processions portrayed on the walls told you who had here excited revelry after retiring from slaughter； or dismissed pageantry in search of pleasure。 It seemed a vast tomb full of the shadowy phantoms of those who had played or toiled their hour out and sunk behind the tapestry which celebrated the conquests of love or war。 Could they be no moreto whom my imagination thus gave life？ Could the thoughts； of which there remained so many vestiges； have vanished quite away？ And these beings； composed of such noble materials of thinking and feeling； have they only melted into the elements to keep in motion the grand mass of life？ It cannot be！as easily could I believe that the large silver lions at the top of the banqueting room thought and reasoned。 But avaunt！ ye waking dreams！ yet I cannot describe the curiosities to you。
There were cabinets full of baubles and gems； and swords which must have been wielded by giant's hand。 The coronation ornaments wait quietly here till wanted； and the wardrobe exhibits the vestments which formerly graced these shows。 It is a pity they do not lend them to the actors； instead of allowing them to perish ingloriously。
I have not visited any other palace； excepting Hirsholm； the gardens of which are laid out with taste； and command the finest views the country affords。 As they are in the modern and English style； I thought I was following the footsteps of Matilda； who wished to multiply around her the images of her beloved country。 I was also gratified by the sight of a Norwegian landscape in miniature； which with great propriety makes a part of the Danish King's garden。 The cottage is well imitated； and the whole has a pleasing effect； particularly so to me who love Norwayits peaceful farms and spacious wilds。
The public library consists of a collection much larger than I expected to see； and it is well arranged。 Of the value of the Icelandic manuscripts I could not form a judgment； though the alphabet of some of them amused me； by showing what immense labour men will submit to； in order to transmit their ideas to posterity。 I have sometimes thought it a great misfortune for individuals to acquire a certain delicacy of sentiment； which often makes them weary of the common occurrences of life； yet it is this very delicacy of feeling and thinking which probably has produced most of the performances that have benefited mankind。 It might with propriety； perhaps； be termed the malady of genius； the cause of that characteristic melancholy which 〃grows with its growth； and strengthens with its strength。〃
There are some good pictures in the royal museum。 Do not start； I am not going to trouble you with a dull catalogue； or stupid criticisms on masters to whom t