¨Maybe heˇll get enough of it；〃 Guy said。 ¨Thatˇs the side our bum tireˇs on。〃
¨Oh； heˇd leave us if we blew out；〃 I said。 ¨He wouldnˇt get his traveling clothes dirty。〃
¨Well； I donˇt mind him；〃 Guy said¨except the way he leans out on the turns。〃
The woods were gone； the road had left the river to climb； the radiator was boiling； the young man looked annoyedly and suspiciously at the steam and rusty water； the engine was grinding； with both Guyˇs feet on the first…speed pedal； up and up； back and forth； and up； and； finally； out level。 The grinding stopped； and in the new quiet there was a great churning bubbling in the radiator。 We were at the top of the last range above Spezia and the sea。 The road descended with short； barely rounded turns。 Our guest hung out on the turns and nearly pulled the top…heavy car over。
¨You canˇt tell him not to；〃 I said to Guy。 ¨Itˇs his sense of self…preservation。〃
¨The great Italian sense。〃
¨The greatest Italian sense。〃
We came down around curves； through deep dust； the dust powdering the olive trees。 Spezia spread below along the sea。 The road flattened outside the town。 Our guest put his head in the window。
¨I want to stop。〃
¨Stop it；〃 I said to Guy。
We slowed up； at the side of the road。 The young man got down； went to the back of the car and untied the suitcase。
¨I stop here； so you wonˇt get into trouble carrying passengers；〃 he said。 ¨My package。〃
I handed him the package。 He reached in his pocket。
¨How much do I owe you？〃
¨Nothing。〃
¨Why not？〃
¨I donˇt know；〃 I said。
¨Then thanks；〃 the young man said； not ˉthank you；ˇ or ˉthank you very muchˇ； or ˉthank you a thousand timesˇ； all of which you formerly said in Italy to a man when he handed you a time…table or explained about a direction。 The young man uttered the lowest form of the word ˉthanksˇ and looked after us suspiciously as Guy started the car。 I waved my hand at him。 He was too dignified to reply。 We went on into Spezia。
¨Thatˇs a young man that will go a long way in Italy；〃 I said to Guy。
¨Well；〃 said Guy； ¨he went twenty kilometers with us。〃
A MEAL IN SPEZIA
We came into Spezia looking for a place to eat。 The street was wide and the houses high and yellow。 We followed the tram…track into the centre of town。 On the walls of the houses were stenciled eye…bugging portraits of Mussolini； with hand…painted ¨vivas〃； the double V in black paint with drippings of paint down the wall。 Side…streets went down to the harbor。 It was bright and the people were all out for Sunday。 The stone paving had been sprinkled and there were damp stretches in the dust。 We went close to the curb to avoid a train。
¨Letˇs eat somewhere simple；〃 Guy said。
We stopped opposite two restaurant signs。 We were standing across the street and I was buying the papers。 The two restaurants were side by side。 A woman standing in the doorway of one smiled at us and we crossed the street and went in。
It was dark inside and at the back of the room three girls were sitting at a table with an old woman。 Across from us； at another table； sat a sailor。 He sat there neither eating nor drinking。 Further back； a young man in a blue suit was writing at a table。 His hair was pomaded and shining and he was very smartly dressed and clean…cut looking。
The light came through the doorway； and through the window where vegetables； fruit； steaks； and chops were arranged in a showcase。 A girl came and took our order and another girl stood in the doorway。 We noticed that she wore nothing under her house dress。 The girl who took our order put her arm around Guyˇs neck while we were looking at the menu。 There were three girls in all； and they all took turns going and standing in the doorway。 The old woman at the table in the back of the room spoke to them and they sat down again with her。
There was no doorway leading from the room except into the kitchen。 A curtain hung over it。 The girl who had taken our order came in from the kitchen with spaghetti。 She put it on the table and brought a bottle of red wine and sat down at the table。
¨Well；〃 I said to Guy； ¨you wanted to eat at some place simple。〃
¨This isnˇt simple。 This is complicated。〃
¨What do you say？〃 asked the girl。 ¨Are you Germans？〃
¨South Germans；〃 I said。 ¨The South Germans are a gentle； lovable people。〃
¨Donˇt understand；〃 she said。
¨Whatˇs the mechanics of this place？〃 Guy asked。 ¨Do I have to let her put her arm around my neck？〃
¨Certainly；〃 I said。 ¨Mussolini has abolished brothels。 This is a restaurant。〃
The girl wore a one…piece dress。 She leaned forward against the table and put her hands on her breasts and smiled。 She smiled better on one side than on the other and turned the good side towards us。 The charm of the good side had been enhanced by some event which had smoothed the other side of her nose in； as warm wax can be smoothed。 Her nose； however； did not look like warm wax。 It was very cold and firmed； only smoothed in。 ¨You like me？〃 she asked Guy。
¨He adores you；〃 I said。 ¨But he doesnˇt speak Italian。〃
¨Ich spreche Deutsch；〃 she said； and stroked Guyˇs hair。
¨Speak to the lady in your native tongue； Guy。〃
¨Where do you come from？〃 asked the lady。
¨Potsdam。〃
¨And you will stay here now for a little while？〃
¨In this so dear Spezia？〃 I asked。
¨Tell him we have to go；〃 said Guy。 ¨Tell her we are very ill； and have no money。〃
¨My friend is a misogynist；〃 I said； ¨an old German misogynist。〃
¨Tell him I love him。〃
I told him。
¨Will you shut your mouth and get us out of here？〃 Guy said。 The lady had placed another arm around his neck。 ¨Tell him he is mine；〃 she said。
I told him。
¨Will you get us out of here？〃
¨You are quarreling；〃 the lady said。 ¨You do not love one another。〃
¨We are Germans；〃 I said proudly； ¨old South Germans。〃
¨Tell him he is a beautiful boy；〃 the lady said。 Guy is thirty…eight and takes some pride in the fact that he is taken for a traveling salesman in France。 ¨You are a beautiful boy；〃 I said。
¨Who says so？〃 Guy asked； ¨you or her？〃
¨She does。 Iˇm just your interpreter。 Isnˇt that what you got me in on this trip for？〃
¨Iˇm glad itˇs her；〃 said Guy。 ¨I donˇt want to have to leave you here too。〃
¨I donˇt know。 Speziaˇs a lovely place。〃
¨Spezia；〃 the lady said。 ¨You are talking about Spezia。〃
¨Lovely place；〃 I said。
¨It is my country；〃 she said。 ¨Spezia is my home and Italy is my country。〃
¨She says that Italy is her country。〃
¨Tell her it looks like her country；〃 Guy said。
¨What have you for dessert？〃 I asked。
¨Fruit；〃 she said。 ¨We have bananas。〃
¨Bananas are all right；〃 Guy said。 ¨Theyˇve got skins on。〃
¨Oh； he takes bananas；〃 the lady said。 She embraced Guy。
¨What does she say？〃 he asked； keeping his face out of her way。
¨She is pleased because you take bananas。〃
¨Tell her I donˇt take bananas。〃
¨The Signor does not take bananas。〃
¨Ah；〃 said the lady； crestfallen； ¨he doesnˇt take bananas。〃
¨Tell her I take a cold bath every morning；〃 Guy said。
¨The Signor takes a cold bath every morning。〃
¨No understand；〃 the lady said。
Across from us； the property sailor had not moved。 No one in the place paid any attention to him。
¨We want the bill；〃 I said。
¨Oh； no。 You must stay。〃
¨Listen；〃 the clean…cut young man said from the table where he was writing； ¨let them go。 These two are worth nothing。〃
The lady took my hand。 ¨You wonˇt stay？ You wonˇt ask him to stay？〃
¨We have to go；〃 I said。 ¨We have to get to Pisa； or if possible； Firenze； tonight。 We can amuse ourselves in those cities at the end of the day。 It is now the day。 In the day we must cover distance。〃
¨To stay a little while is nice。〃
¨To travel is necessary during the light of day。〃
¨Listen；〃 the clean…cut young man said。 ¨Donˇt bother to talk with these two。 I tell you they are worth nothing and I know。〃
¨Bring us the bill；〃 I said。 She brought the bill from the old woman and went back and sat at the table。 Another girl came in from the kitchen。 She walked the length of the room and stood in the doorway。
¨Donˇt bother with these two；〃 the clean…cut young man said in a wearied voice。 ¨Come and eat。 They are worth nothing。〃
We paid the bill and stood up。 All the girls； the old woman； and the clean…cut young man sat down at the table together。 The property sailor sat with his head in his hands。 No one had spoken to him all the time we were at lunch。 The girl brought us our change that the old woman counted out for her and went back to her place at the table。 We left a tip on the table and went out。 When we were seated in the car ready to start； the girl came out and stood in the door。 We started and I waved to her。 She did not wave； but stood there looking after us。
AFTER THE RAIN
It was raining hard when we passed through the suburbs of Genoa； and； even going very slowly