nipah； a species of stemless palm； of which the poorer natives make
their houses； and whose magnificent fronds are often from twenty to
twenty…two feet in length。 The soft carriage road passes through an
avenue of trees of great girth and a huge spread of foliage； bearing
glorious yellow blossoms of delicious fragrance。 Jungles of sugar…cane
often form the foreground of dense masses of palms； then a jungle of
pine…apples surprises one； then a mass of lianas； knotted and tangled；
with stems like great cables； and red blossoms as large as breakfast
cups。 The huge trees which border the road have their stems and
branches nearly hidden by orchids and epiphyteschiefly that lovely
and delicate one whose likeness to a hovering dove won for it the name
of the 〃Flower of the Holy Ghost；〃 an orchid （Peristeria elata） which
lives but for a day； but in its brief life fills the air with
fragrance。 Then the trees change； the long tresses of an
autumn…flowering orchid fall from their branches over the road； dead
trees appear transformed into living beauty by multitudes of ferns；
among which the dark…green shining fronds of the Asplenium nidus；
measuring four feet in length； specially delight the eye； huge
tamarinds and mimosa add the grace of their feathery foliage； the
banana unfolds its gigantic fronds above its golden fruitage； clumps of
the betel or areca palms； with their slender and absolutely straight
shafts； make the cocoa…palms look like clumsy giants； the gutta…percha；
india rubber； and other varieties of ficus； increase the forest gloom
by the brown velvety undersides of their shining dark…green leafage；
then comes the cashew…nut tree； with its immense spread of branches；
and its fruit an apple with a nut below； and the beautiful bread…fruit；
with its green 〃cantalupe melons；〃 nearly ripe； and the gigantic jak
and durion； and fifty others； children of tropic heat and moisture； in
all the promise of perpetual spring； and the fulfillment of endless
summer； the beauty of blossom and the bounteousness of an unfailing
fruitage crowning them through all the year。 At their feet is a tangle
of fungi； mosses； ferns； trailers； lilies； nibongs； reeds； canes；
rattans； a dense and lavish undergrowth； in which reptiles； large and
small； riot most congenially； and in which broods of mosquitoes are
hourly hatched； to the misery of man and beast。 Occasionally a small
and comparatively cleared spot appears； with a crowded cluster of
graves； with a pawn…shaped stone at the head of each； and the beautiful
Frangipani；* the 〃Temple Flower〃 of Singhalese Buddhism； but the 〃Grave
Flower〃 of Malay Mohammedanism； sheds its ethereal fragrance among the
tombs。 The dead lie lonely in the forest shade； under the feathery
palm…fronds； but the living are not far to seek。
＇*Plumieria sp。＇
It is strange that I should have written thus far and have said nothing
at all about the people from whom this Peninsula derives its name； who
have cost us not a little blood and some treasure； with whom our
relations are by no means well defined or satisfactory； and who； though
not the actual aborigines of the country； have at least that claim to
be considered its rightful owners which comes from long centuries of
possession。 In truth； between English rule； the solid tokens of Dutch
possession； the quiet and indolent Portuguese； the splendid memories of
Francis Xavier； and the numerical preponderance； success； and wealth of
the Chinese； I had absolutely forgotten the Malays； even though a dark…
skinned military policeman； with a gliding； snake…like step； whom I
know to be a Malay； brings my afternoon tea to the Stadthaus！ Of them I
may write more hereafter。 They are symbolized to people's minds in
general by the dagger called a kris； and by the peculiar form of frenzy
which has given rise to the phrase 〃running amuck。〃
The great cocoa groves are by no means solitary； for they contain the
kampongs； or small raised villages of the Malays。 Though the Malay
builds his dismal little mosques on the outskirts of Malacca； he shuns
the town； and prefers a life of freedom in his native jungles； or on
the mysterious rivers which lose themselves among the mangrove swamps。
So in the neighborhood of Malacca these kampongs are scattered through
the perpetual twilight of the forest。 They do not build the houses
very close together； and whether of rich or poor； the architecture is
the same。 Each dwelling is of planed wood or plaited palm leaves； the
roof is high and steep； the eaves are deep； and the whole rests on a
gridiron platform； supported on posts from five to ten feet high； and
approached by a ladder in the poorer houses； and a flight of steps in
the richer。 In the ordinary houses mats are laid here and there over
the gridiron； besides the sleeping mats； and this plan of an open
floor； though trying to unaccustomed Europeans； has various advantages。
As； for instance； it insures ventilation； and all debris can be thrown
through it； to be consumed by the fire which is lighted every evening
beneath the house to smoke away the mosquitoes。 A baboon； trained to
climb the cocoa palms and throw down the nuts； is an inmate of most of
the houses。
The people lead strange and uneventful lives。 The men are not inclined
to much effort except in fishing or hunting； and； where they possess
rice land； in ploughing for rice。 They are said to be quiet；
temperate； jealous； suspicious； some say treacherous； and most bigoted
Mussulmen。 The women are very small； keep their dwellings very tidy；
and weave mats and baskets from reeds and palm leaves。 They are clothed
in cotton or silk from the ankles to the throat； and the men； even in
the undress of their own homes； usually wear the sarong； a picturesque
tightish petticoat； consisting of a wide piece of stuff kept on by a
very ingenious knot。 They are not savages in the ordinary sense； for
they have a complete civilization of their own； and their legal system
is derived from the Koran。
They are dark brown； with rather low foreheads； dark and somewhat
expressionless eyes； high cheek bones； flattish noses with broad
nostrils； and wide mouths with thick lips。 Their hair is black；
straight and shining； and the women dress it in a plain knot at the
back of the head。 To my thinking； both sexes are decidedly ugly； and
there is a coldness and aloofness of manner about them which chills one
even where they are on friendly terms with Europeans； as the people
whom we visited were with Mrs。 Biggs。
The women were lounging about the houses； some cleaning fish； others
pounding rice； but they do not care for work； and the little money
which they need for buying clothes they can make by selling mats； or
jungle fruits。 Their lower garment； or sarong； reaching from the waist
to the ankles； is usually of red cotton of a small check； with stripes
in the front； above which is worn a loose sleeved garment； called a
kabaya； reaching to the knees； and clasped in front with silver or
gold； and frequently with diamond ornaments。 They also wear gold or
silver pins in their hair； and the sarong is girt or held up by a clasp
of enormous size； and often of exquisite workmanship； in the poorer
class of silver； and in the richer of gold jeweled with diamonds and
rubies。 The sarong of the men does not reach much below the knee and
displays loose trousers。 They wear above it a short…sleeved jacket； the
baju； beautifully made； and often very tastefully decorated in fine
needlework； and with small buttons on each side； not for use； however。
I have seen one Malay who wore about twenty buttons； each one a diamond
solitaire！ The costume is completed by turbans or red handkerchiefs
tied round their heads。
In these forest kampongs the children； who are very pretty； are not
encumbered by much clothing； specially the boys。 All the dwellings are
picturesque； and those of the richer Malays are beautiful。 They rigidly
exclude all ornaments which have 〃the likeness of anything in heaven or
earth；〃 but their arabesques are delicately carved； and the verses from
the Koran； which occasionally run under the eaves； being in the Arabic
character； are decidedly decorative。 Their kampongs are small； and
they have little of the gregarious instinct； they are said to live
happily； and to have a considerable amount of domestic affection。
Captain Shaw likes the Malays； and the verdict on them here is that
they are chaste； gentle； honest and hospitable； but that they tell
lies； and that their 〃honor〃 is so sensitive that blood alone can wipe
out some insults to it。 They seclude their women to a great extent； and
under ordinary circumstances the slightest courtesy shown by a European
man to a Malay woman would be a deadly insult； and at the sight of a
man in the distance the women hastily cover their faces。
There is a large mosque with a minaret just on the outskirts of
Malacca； and we passed several smaller ones in the space of three
miles。 Scarcely any kampong is so small as not to have a mosque。 The
Malays are bigoted； and for the most part ignorant and fanatical
Mohammedans； and I firmly believe that the Englishman whom they respect
most is only a little removed from being 〃a