it all！ It is wonderful； no words could describe it； far less mine。 Mr。
Darwin says so truly that a visit to the tropics （and such tropics） is
like a visit to a new planet。 This new wonder…world； so enchanting；
tantalizing； intoxicating； makes me despair； for I cannot make you see
what I am seeing！ Amidst all this wealth of nature and in this
perennial summer heat I quite fail to realize that it is January； and
that with you the withered plants are shriveling in the frost…bound
earth； and that leafless twigs and the needles of half…starved pines
are shivering under the stars in the aurora…lighted winter nights。
But to the jungle again； The great bamboo towers up along the river
sides in its feathery grace； and behind it the much prized Malacca
cane； the rattan； creeping along the ground or climbing trees and
knotting them together； with its tough strands； from a hundred to
twelve hundred feet in length； matted and matting together while ferns；
selaginellas； and lycopodiums struggle for space in which to show their
fragile beauty； along with hardier foliaceous plants； brown and
crimson； green and crimson； and crimson flecked with gold； and the
great and lesser trees alike are loaded with trailers； ferns； and
orchids； among which huge masses of the elk…horn fern and the shining
five…foot fronds of the Asplenium Nidus are everywhere conspicuous。
Not only do orchids crowd the branches； and the hoya carnosa； the yam；
the blue…blossomed Thunbergia； the vanilla （？）； and other beautiful
creepers； conceal the stems； while nearly every parasitic growth
carries another parasite； but one sees here a filament carelessly
dangling from a branch sustaining some bright…hued epiphyte of quaint
mocking form； then a branch as thick as a clipper's main…mast reaches
across the river； supporting a festooned trailer； from whose stalks
hang； almost invisibly suspended； oval fruits； almost vermilion
colored； then again the beautiful vanilla and the hoya carnosa vie with
each other in wreathing the same tree； or an audacious liana； with
great clusters of orange or scarlet blossoms； takes possession of
several trees at once； lighting up the dark greenery with its flaming
splotches； or an aspiring trailer； dexterously linking its feebleness
to the strength of other plants； leaps across the river from tree to
tree at a height of a hundred feet； and； as though in mockery； sends
down a profusion of crimson festoons far out of reach。 But it is as
useless to attempt to catalogue as to describe。 To realize an
equatorial jungle one must see it in all its wonderment of activity and
stillnessthe heated； steamy stillness through which one fancies that
no breeze ever whispers； with its colossal flowering trees； its green
twilight； its inextricable involvement； its butterflies and moths； its
brilliant but harsh voiced birds； its lizards and flying foxes； its
infinite variety of monkeys； sitting； hanging by hands or tails；
leaping； grimacing； jabbering； pelting each other with fruits； and its
loathsome saurians； lying in wait on slimy banks under the mangroves。
All this and far more the dawn revealed upon the Linggi river； but
strange to say； through all the tropic splendor of the morning； I saw a
vision of the Trientalis Europea； as we saw it first on a mossy
hillside in Glen Cannich！
But I am forgetting that the night with its blackness and mystery came
before the sunrise； that the stars seldom looked through the dense
leafage； and that the pale green lamps of a luminous fungus here and
there； and the cold blue sheet…lightning only served to intensify the
solemnity of the gloom。 While the blackest part of the night lasted the
〃view〃 was usually made up of the black river under the foliage； with
scarcely ten yards of its course free from obstructiongreat snags all
along it sticking up menacingly； trees lying half or quite across it；
with barely room to pass under them； or sometimes under water； when the
boat 〃drave heavily〃 over them； while great branches brushed and ripped
the thatch continually； and as one obstacle was safely passed； the
rapidity of the current invariably canted us close on another； but the
vigilant skill of the boatmen averted the slightest accident。 〃Jaga！
Jaga！〃caution！ caution！was the constant cry。 The most unpleasant
sensations were produced by the constant ripping and tearing sounds as
we passed under the low tunnel of vegetation； and by the perpetual
bumping against timber。
The Misses Shaw passed an uneasy night。 The whisky had cured the
younger one of her severe sick headache； and she was the prey of many
terrors。 They thought that the boat would be ripped up； that the roof
would be taken off； that a tree would fall and crush us； that the
boatmen； when they fell overboard； as they often did； would be eaten by
alligators； that they would see glaring eyeballs whenever the cry
〃Rimou！〃a tiger！was raised from the bow； and they continually awoke
me with news of something that was happening or about to happen； and
were drolly indignant because they could not sleep； while I； a blasee
old campaigner； slept whenever they would let me。 Day broke in a heavy
mist； which disappeared magically at sunrise。 As the great sun wheeled
rapidly above the horizon and blazed upon us with merciless fierceness；
all at once the jungle became vociferous。 Loudly clattered the busy
cicada； its simultaneous din； like a concentration of the noise of all
the looms in the world； suddenly breaking off into a simultaneous
silence； the noisy insect world chirped； cheeped； buzzed； whistled；
birds hallooed； hooted； whooped； screeched； apes in a loud and not
inharmonious chorus greeted the sun； and monkeys chattered； yelled；
hooted； quarreled； and spluttered。 The noise was tremendous。 But the
forest was absolutely still； except when some heavy fruit； over ripe；
fell into the river with a splash。 The trees above us were literally
alive with monkeys； and the curiosity of some of them about us was so
great that they came down on 〃monkey ropes〃 and branches for the fun of
touching the roof of the boat with their hands while they hung by their
tails。 They were all full of frolic and mischief。
Then we had a slim repast of soda water and bananas； the Hadji
worshiped with his face toward Mecca； and the boatmen prepared an
elaborate curry for themselves； with salt fish for its basis； and for
its tastiest condiment blachanga Malay preparation much relished by
European lovers of durion and decomposed cheese。 It is made by
trampling a mass of putrefying prawns and shrimps into a paste with
bare feet。 This is seasoned with salt。 The smell is penetrating and
lingering。 Our men made the boat fast； rinsed their mouths； washed
their hands； and ate； using their fingers instead of chopsticks。 Poor
fellows！ they had done twelve hours of splendid work。
Then one of them prepared the betel…nut for the rest。 I think I have
not yet alluded to this abominable practice of betel…nut chewing； which
is universal among the inhabitants of the Malay Peninsula； the
betel…nut being as essential to a Malay as tobacco is to a Japanese； or
opium to the confirmed Chinese opium…smoker。 It is a revolting habit；
and if a person speaks to you while he is chewing his 〃quid〃 of betel；
his mouth looks as if it were full of blood。 People say that the
craving for stimulants is created by our raw； damp climate； but it is
as strong here； at the equator； in this sunny； balmy air。 I have not
yet come across a region in which men； weary in body or spirit； are not
seeking to stimulate or stupefy themselves。 The Malay men and women
being prohibited by the Koran from using alcohol； find the needed
fillip in this nut； but it needs preparation before it suits their
palates。
The betel…nut is the fruit of the lovely； graceful； slender…shafted
areca palm。 This tree at six years old begins to bear about one hundred
nuts a year； which grow in clusters； each nut being about the size of a
nutmeg； and covered with a yellow； fibrous husk。 The requisites for
chewing are： a small piece of areca nut； a leaf of the Sirih or betel
pepper； a little moistened lime； and； if you wish to be very luxurious；
a paste made of spices。 The Sirih leaf was smeared with a little fine
lime taken from a brass box； on this was laid a little； brownish paste；
on this； a bit of the nut； the leaf was then folded neatly round its
contents； and the men began to chew； and to spitthe inevitable
consequence。 The practice stains the teeth black。 I tasted the nut； and
found it pungent and astringent； not tempting。 The Malays think you
look like a beast if you have white teeth。
The heat was exhausting； the mercury 87 degrees in the shade as early
as 8：30； and we all suffered； more or less； from it in our cramped
position and enforced inactivity。 At nine； having been fourteen hours
on the river； we came on a small cleared space； from which a bronzed；
frank…faced man； dressed in white linen； hallooed to us jovially； and
we were soon warmly greeted by Captain Murray； the British Resident in
the State of Sungei Ujong。 On seeing him； we hoped to find a gharrie
and to get some breakfast； and he helped us on shore； as if our hopes
were to be real