＇*The sheet of my letter in which I afterward described the physique of
these apes has unfortunately been lost； and I dare not trust to my
memory in a matter in which accuracy is essential。 The description of
an ape （in Letter XIV） approaches near to my recollection of them。＇
I carried him to the easy…chair at the other end of the veranda； and he
lay down confidingly on my arm； looking up with a bewitching； pathetic
face； and murmuring sweetly 〃Ouf！ Ouf！〃 He has scarcely left me since；
except to go out to sleep on the attap roof。 He is the most lovable；
infatuating； little semi…human creature； so altogether fascinating that
I could waste the whole day in watching him。 As I write； he sometimes
sits on the table by me watching me attentively； or takes a pen； dips
it in the ink； and scribbles on a sheet of paper。 Occasionally he turns
over the leaves of a book； once he took Mr。 Low's official
correspondence； envelope by envelope； out of the rack； opened each；
took out the letters and held them as if reading； but always replaced
them。 Then he becomes companionable； and gently taking my pen from my
hand； puts it aside and lays his dainty hand in mine； and sometimes he
lies on my lap as I write； with one long arm round my throat； and the
small； antique； pathetic face is occasionally laid softly against mine；
uttering the monosyllable 〃Ouf！ ouf！〃 which is capable of a variation
of tone and meaning truly extraordinary。 Mahmoud is sufficiently
polite； but shows no sign of friendliness； I am glad to say。 As I bore
Eblis out of reach of his clutches he threw the cane either at him or
me； and then began to dance。
That first night tigers came very near the house； roaring
discontentedly。 At 4 A。M。 I was awoke by a loud noise； and looking out；
saw a wonderful scene。 The superb plumes of the cocoa…nut trees were
motionless against a sky blazing with stars。 Four large elephants； part
of the regalia of a deposed Sultan； one of them； the Royal Elephant； a
beast of prodigious size； were standing at the door； looking majestic；
mahouts were flitting about with torches； Sikhs； whose great stature
was exaggerated by the fitful lightsome in their undress white
robes； and others in scarlet uniforms and blue turbanswere grouped as
onlookers； the torchlight glinted on peripatetic bayonets； and the
greenish； undulating lamps of countless fireflies moved gently in the
shadow。
I have now been for three nights the sole inhabitant of this bungalow！
I have taken five meals in the society of apes only； who make me laugh
with genuine laughter。 The sentries are absolutely silent； and I hardly
hear a human voice。 It is so good to be away for a time from the
〃wearing world；〃 from all clatter； chatter； and 〃strife of tongues；〃 in
the unsophisticated society of apes and elephants。 Dullness is out of
the question。 The apes are always doing something new； and are far more
initiative than imitative。 Eblis has just now taken a letter of yours
from an elastic band； and is holding it wide open as if he were reading
it； an untamed siamang； which lives on the roof； but has mustered up
courage to…day to come down into the veranda； has jumped like a demon
on the retriever's back； and riding astride； is beating him with a
ruler； and jolly； wicked Mahmoud； having taken the cushions out of the
chairs； has laid them in a row； has pulled a table cover off the table；
and having rolled it up for a pillow； is now lying down in an easy；
careless attitude； occasionally helping himself to a piece of
pine…apple。 When they are angry they make a fearful noise； and if you
hinder them from putting their hands into your plate they shriek with
rage like children； and utter much the same sound as the Ainos do when
displeased。 They seem frightfully jealous of the sweet little wah…wah
Eblis。 Mahmoud beats it and teases it whenever it is not with me； he
takes its food； and when it screams with rage he laughs and shows his
white teeth。 He upset all the chairs in the veranda this morning； and
when I attempted to scold him he took a banana which he was peeling and
threw it at me。 I am sure that he would have a great deal of rough wit
if he could speak our tongue。
The night I came； Mr。 Low's clerk； a Singhalese； came to arrange an
expedition； and early the next morning； after I had breakfasted with
the apes； he arrived； bringing the Royal Elephant； as well…broken and
stately an animal as I should wish to ride。 He is such a height （they
say ten feet！） that； though he lay down to be mounted； a good…sized
ladder was needed for the climb upon his back。 Assam put pillows and a
good lunch into the baskets； and as the day was glorious from sunrise
to sunset I had an altogether delightful expedition。
We turned at once into the jungle； and rode through it for seven hours
on the left bank of the Perak river。 The loveliness was intoxicating。
The trees were lofty and magnificent； there were very many such as I
have not seen before。 Many run up a hundred feet or more before they
branch。 The twilight was green and dim； and ofttimes amidst the wealth
of vegetation not a flower was to be seen。 But as often； through rifts
in the leafage far aloft； there were glimpses of the sunny； heavenly
blue sky； and now and then there were openings where trees had fallen；
and the glorious tropical sunshine streamed in on gaudy blossoms of
huge trees； and on pure white orchids； and canary…colored clusters
borne by lianas； on sun…birds； iridescent and gorgeous in the sunlight；
and on butterflies； some all golden； others amber and black； and amber
and blue； some with velvety bands of violet and green； others
altogether velvety black with spots of vermilion or emerald…green； the
under side of the wings corresponding to the spot； while sometimes a
shoal of turquoise…blue or wholly canary…colored sprites fluttered in
the sunbeams； the flash of sun…birds and the flutter of butterflies
giving one an idea of the joy which possibly was intended to be the
heritage of all animated existence。 In these openings I was glad for
the moment to be neither an ornithologist nor an entomologist； so that
I might leave everyone of these daintily colored creatures to the
enjoyment of its life and beauty。
It was not the trees and lianas only that were beautiful in these sunny
openings； but the ferns； mosses； orchids； and selaginellas； with the
crimson…tipped dracaena； and the crimson…veined caladium； and the great
red nepenthe with purple blotches on its nearly diaphanous pitchers；
and another pitcher…plant of an epiphytal habit； with pea…green
pitchers scrambling to a great height over the branches of the smaller
trees。 The beautiful tree…ferns themselves were loaded with other
ferns； orchids； and mosses； every fallen tree was draped with fresh
green forms； every swampy bit was the home of mottled aroids； film
ferns； and foliage plants； mostly green and gold； while in some places
there were ginger…worts with noble shining leaves fully six feet long。
In the green twilight of the depths of the forest the dew gemmed the
leaves till nearly 10 A。M。； but in the openings the sun blazed with the
heat of a furnace。 The silence and colorlessness of the heart of the
forest； and the color； vivacity； light； and movement in the openings；
and among the tree…tops； contrast most curiously。 Legions of monkeys
inhabit the tree…tops； and seem to lead a completely aerial life。 It is
said that they never come down to earth； but that they cross the
forests swinging themselves from tree to tree。
The Malays； if they can； build their kampongs near rivers； and during
the day we passed several of these。 Several had mosques more or less
rude。 Every village consists of such houses as I have described before；
grouped； but not by any means closely； under the shade of cocoa…palms；
jak； durion； bread…fruit； mango； nutmeg； and other fruit…trees。
Plantations of bananas are never far off。 Many of these people have
〃dug…outs〃 or other boats on the adjacent river； some have
bathing…sheds； and others padi plantations。 These kampongs have much of
the poetry as well as inanity of tropical life about them。 They are
beautiful and appropriate； and food is above them and around them。
〃The primal curse〃 can hardly be known。 A very little labor provides
all that the Malay desires； and if the tenure of the land be secure
（and the lack of security is one of the great evils）； and he be not
over…taxed； his life must be calm and easy； if not happy。 The people
were always courteous； and my Singhalese escort held long conversations
in every kampong。 These jungle dwellers raise their houses on very high
posts； partly because tigers abound。 The jak trees （artocarpus incisa）；
near of kin to the bread…fruit； and the durion； flourish round all the
dwellings。 The jak fruit； which may be called food rather than fruit；
grows without a visible stem from the trunk and branches of the very
handsome tree which bears it； and weighs from sixty to seventy pounds。
The durion grows to the size of a man's head； and is covered closely
with hard； sharp spines。 The fall of either on one's head or shoulder
is much to be deprecated； and the Malays stretch strong nets above
their houses to secure