as its summer is； the average rainfall scarcely exceeds seventy…eight
inches； but it is hotter than Singapore in the hot season； though the
latter is under eighty miles from the Equator。
The causes by which this little island； which produces nothing； has
risen into first…rate importance among our colonies are； that Victoria；
with its magnificent harbor； is a factory for our Chinese commerce and
offers unrivaled facilities for the military and naval forces which are
necessary for the protection not only of that commerce but of our
interests in the far East。 It is hardly too much to say that it is the
naval and commercial terminus of the Suez Canal。 Will it be believed
that the amount of British and foreign tonnage annually entering and
leaving the port averages two millions of tons？ and that the number of
native vessels trading to it is about fifty…two thousand； raising the
total ascertained tonnage to upward of three millions and a half； or
half a million tons in excess of Singapore？ To this must be added
thousands of smaller native boats of every build and rig trading to
Hong Kong； not only from the Chinese coasts and rivers； but from Siam；
Japan； and Cochin China。 Besides the 〃P。 and O。；〃 the Messageries
Maritimes； the Pacific Mail Company； the Eastern and Australian Mail
Company； the Japanese 〃Mitsu Bichi〃 Mail Company； etc。； all regular
mail lines； it has a number of lines of steamers trading to England；
America； and Germany； with local lines both Chinese and English； and
lines of fine sailing clippers； which； however； are gradually falling
into disuse； owing to the dangerous navigation of the China seas； and
the increasing demand for speed。
Victorian firms have almost the entire control of the tea and silk
trade； and Victoria is the centre of the trade in opium； sugar； flour；
salt； earthenware； oil； amber； cotton； and cotton goods； sandal…wood；
ivory； betel； vegetables； live stock； granite； and much else。 The much
abused term 〃emporium of commerce〃 may most correctly be applied to it。
It has five docks； three slips； and every requisite for making
extensive repairs for ships of war and merchantmen。
It has telegraphic communication with the whole civilized world； and
its trade is kept thereby in a continual fever。
It has a large garrison； for which it pays to England 20；000 pounds a
year。 Were it not for this force； its six hundred and fifty policemen；
of whom only one hundred and ten are Europeans； might not be able to
overawe even as much as they do the rowdy and ruffianly elements of its
heterogeneous population。 As it is； the wealthier foreign residents；
for the security of their property； are obliged to supplement the
services of the public caretakers by employing private watchmen； who
patrol their grounds at night。 It must be admitted that the criminal
classes are very rampageous in Victoria； whether from undue and unwise
leniency in the treatment of crime； or whether from the extraordinary
mass of criminals to which our flag affords security is not for a
stranger to say； though the general clamor raised when I visited the
great Chinese prison in Canton； 〃I wish I were in your prison in Hong
Kong；〃 and my own visit to the Victoria prison； render the former
suspicion at least permissible。
Hong Kong possesses the usual establishment of a Crown Colony； and the
government is administered by a Governor； aided by a Legislative
Council； of which he is the President； and which is composed of the
Chief Justice； the Colonial Secretary； the Attorney…General； the
Treasurer； and four unofficial members； nominated by the Crown on the
Governor's recommendation。
The enormous preponderance of the mixed Oriental population is a source
of some difficulty； and it is not easy by our laws to punish and
destroy a peculiarly hateful form of slavery which is recognized by
Chinese custom； and which has attained gigantic proportions in
Victoria。 There is an immense preponderance of the masculine element；
nearly six to one among the Europeans； and among the Orientals the men
are nearly two and a half times as numerous as the women。
As Victoria is a free port； it is impossible to estimate the value of
its imports and exports； but its harbor； full of huge merchantmen； and
craft of all nations； its busy wharves； its crowd of lighters loading
and unloading by day and night； its thronged streets and handsome
shops； its huge warehouses； packed with tea； silk； and all the costly
products of the East； and its hillsides terraced with the luxurious
houses of its merchants； all say； 〃Circumspice； these are better than
statistics！〃＇
I。 L。 B。
LETTER III
The S。S。 Kin KiangFirst View of CantonThe Island of
ShameenEngland in CantonThe Tartar CityDrains and
BarricadesCanton at NightStreet PicturesquenessGhastly
GiftsOriental EnchantmentsThe Examination Hall
S。S。 〃KIN KIANG；〃 December 30。
You will remember that it is not very long since a piratical party of
Chinese； shipping as steerage passengers on board one of these Hong
Kong river steamers； massacred the officers and captured the boat。 On
board this great； white； deck…above…deck American steamer there is but
one European passenger beside myself； but there are four hundred and
fifty second…class passengers； Chinamen； with the exception of a few
Parsees； all handsomely dressed； nearly all smoking； and sitting or
lying over the saloon deck up to the saloon doors。 In the steerage
there are fifteen hundred Chinese steerage passengers； all men。 The
Chinese are a noisy people； their language is inharmonious； and the
lower class male voices； at least； are harsh and coarse。 The fifteen
hundred men seem to be all shouting at once； and the din which comes up
through the hatchways is fearful。 This noisy mass of humanity is
practically imprisoned below； for there is a heavy iron grating
securely padlocked over each exit； and a European； 〃armed to the
teeth；〃 stands by each； ready to shoot the first man who attempts to
force it。 In this saloon there is a stand of six rifles with bayonets；
and four revolvers； and； as we started； a man carefully took the
sheaths off the bayonets； and loaded the firearms with ball cartridge。
Canton； January 1； 1879。The Canton river for the ninety miles up here
has nothing interesting about it。 Soon after leaving Hong Kong the
country becomes nearly a dead level； mainly rice…swamps varied by
patches of bananas； with their great fronds torn to tatters by the
prevailing strong breeze。 A very high pagoda marks Whampoa； once a
prosperous port； but now； like Macao； nearly deserted。 An hour after
disgorging three boat loads of Chinamen at Whampoa； we arrived at the
beginning of Canton； but it took more than half an hour of cautious
threading of our way among junks； sampans； house…boats； and
slipper…boats； before we moored to the crowded and shabby wharf。 If my
expectations of Canton had been much raised they would certainly have
been disappointed； for the city stands on a perfectly level site； and
has no marked features within or around it except the broad and
bridgeless tidal river which sweeps through it at a rapid rate。 In the
distance are the White…Cloud hills； which were painted softly in
amethyst on a tender green sky； and nearer are some rocky hills； which
are red at all hours of daylight。 Boats and masts conceal the view of
the city from the river to a great extent； but even when from a vantage
ground it is seen spread out below； it is so densely packed； its
streets are so narrow； and its open spaces so few； that one almost
doubts whether the million and a half of people attributed to it are
really crowded within the narrow area。 From the river； and indeed from
any point of view； Canton is less imposing even than Tokiyo。 Few
objects rise above the monotonous level； and the few are unimpressive。
There are two or three pagodas looking like shot towers。 There is a
double…towered Romish cathedral of great size； not yet finished。 There
is the 〃Nine…storied pagoda。〃 But in truth the most prominent objects
from the river are the 〃godowns〃 of the pawnbrokers； lofty； square
towers of gray brick which dominate the city； play a very important
part in its social economy； and are very far removed from those
establishments with the trinity of gilded balls； which hide themselves
shamefacedly away in our English by…streets。 At one part of the
riverside there are some substantial looking foreign houses among
trees； on the site of the foreign factories of former days； but they
and indeed all else are hidden by a crowd of boats； a town of boats； a
floating suburb。 Indeed； boats are my earliest and strongest
impressions of what on my arrival I was hasty enough to think a mean
city。 It is not only along the sides of the broad Pearl river； but
along the network of innumerable canals and creeks which communicate
with it； that they are found。
These boats； the first marvel of a marvelous city； have come between me
and my landing。 When the steamer had disgorged her two thousand
passengers； Mr。 Mackrill Smith； whose guest I am； brought me in a
bamboo chair； carried by two coolies； through a covered and crowded
street of merchandise six feet wide； to Sham