it； and a fire that they may shift and dress them before it。
Every child is nursed by its own mother； if death or sickness does
not intervene； and in that case the syphogrants' wives find out a
nurse quickly； which is no hard matter； for anyone that can do it
offers herself cheerfully； for as they are much inclined to that
piece of mercy； so the child whom the nurse considers the nurse as
its mother。 All the children under five years old sit among the
nurses； the rest of the younger sort of both sexes； till they are
fit for marriage； either serve those that sit at table or； if they
are not strong enough for that； stand by them in great silence；
and eat what is given them； nor have they any other formality of
dining。 In the middle of the first table； which stands across the
upper end of the hall； sit the syphogrant and his wife； for that
is the chief and most conspicuous place： next to him sit two of
the most ancient； for there go always four to a mess。 If there is
a temple within that syphogranty； the priest and his wife sit with
the syphogrant above all the rest： next them there is a mixture of
old and young； who are so placed； that as the young are set near
others； so they are mixed with the more ancient； which they say
was appointed on this account； that the gravity of the old people；
and the reverence that is due to them； might restrain the younger
from all indecent words and gestures。 Dishes are not served up to
the whole table at first； but the best are first set before the
old； whose seats are distinguished from the young； and after them
all the rest are served alike。 The old men distribute to the
younger any curious meats that happen to be set before them； if
there is not such an abundance of them that the whole company may
be served alike。
Thus old men are honored with a particular respect； yet all the
rest fare as well as they。 Both dinner and supper are begun with
some lecture of morality that is read to them； but it is so short；
that it is not tedious nor uneasy to them to hear it： from hence
the old men take occasion to entertain those about them with some
useful and pleasant enlargements； but they do not engross the
whole discourse so to themselves； during their meals； that the
younger may not put in for a share： on the contrary； they engage
them to talk； that so they may in that free way of conversation
find out the force of everyone's spirit and observe his temper。
They despatch their dinners quickly； but sit long at supper；
because they go to work after the one； and are to sleep after the
other； during which they think the stomach carries on the
concoction more vigorously。 They never sup without music； and
there is always fruit served up after meat； while they are at
table； some burn perfumes and sprinkle about fragrant ointments
and sweet waters： in short； they want nothing that may cheer up
their spirits： they give themselves a large allowance that way；
and indulge themselves in all such pleasures as are attended with
no inconvenience。 Thus do those that are in the towns live
together； but in the country； where they live at great distance；
everyone eats at home； and no family wants any necessary sort of
provision； for it is from them that provisions are sent unto those
that live in the towns。