altar under the dome in St。 Peter's； which will accommodate a thousand； and perhaps more； ladies； and for these tickets are issued without numbers； and for twice as many as they will seat。 Gentlemen who are in evening dress are admitted to stand in the reserved places inside the lines of soldiers。 For the Miserere in the Sistine Chapel tickets are also issued。 As there is only room for about four hundred ladies； and a thousand and more tickets are given out； you may imagine the scramble。 Ladies go for hours before the singing begins； and make a grand rush when the doors are open。 I do not know any sight so unseemly and cruel as a crowd of women intent on getting in to such a ceremony： they are perfectly rude and unmerciful to each other。 They push and trample one another under foot； veils and dresses are torn； ladies faint away in the scrimmage； and only the strongest and most unscrupulous get in。 I have heard some say； who have been in the pellmell； that； not content with elbowing and pushing and pounding； some women even stick pins into those who are in the way。 I hope this latter is not true； but it is certain that the conduct of most of the women is brutal。 A weak or modest or timid woman stands no more chance than she would in a herd of infuriated Campagna cattle。 The same scenes are enacted in the efforts to see the pope wash feet； and serve at the table。 For the possession of the seats under the dome on Palm Sunday and Easter there is a like crush。 The ceremonies do not begin until half…past nine； but ladies go between five and six o'clock in the morning； and when the passages are open they make a grand rush。 The seats； except those saved for the nobility； are soon all taken； and the ladies who come after seven are lucky if they can get within the charmed circle； and find a spot to sit down on a campstool。 They can then see only a part of the proceedings； and have a weary； exhausting time of it for hours。 This year Rome is more crowded than ever before。 There are American ladies enough to fill all the reserved places； and I fear they are energetic enough to get their share of them。
It rained Sunday； but there was a steady stream of people and carriages all the morning pouring over the Bridge of St。 Angelo； and discharging into the piazza of St。 Peter's。 It was after nine when I arrived on the ground。 There was a crowd of carriages under the colonnades； and a heavy fringe in front of them； but the hundreds of people moving over the piazza； and up the steps to the entrances； made only the impression of dozens in the vast space。 I do not know if there are people enough in Rome to fill St。 Peter's； certainly there was no appearance of a crowd as we entered； although they had been pouring in all the morning； and still thronged the doors。 I heard a traveler say that he followed ten thousand soldiers into the church； and then lost them from sight： they disappeared in the side chapels。 He did not make his affidavit as to the number of soldiers。 The interior area of the building is not much greater than the square of St。 Mark in Venice。 To go into the great edifice is almost like going outdoors。 Lines of soldiers kept a wide passage clear from the front door away down to the high altar； and there was a good mass of spectators on the outside。 The tribunes for the ladies； built up under the dome； were of course； filled with masses of ladies in solemn black； and there was more or less of a press of people surging about in that vicinity。 Thousands of people were also roaming about in the great spaces of the edifice； but there was nowhere else anything like a crowd。 It had very much the appearance of a large fair…ground； with little crowds about favorite booths。 Gentlemen in dress…coats were admitted to the circle under the dome。 The pope's choir was stationed in a gallery there opposite the high altar。 Back of the altar was a wide space for the dignitaries； seats were there； also； for ambassadors and those born to the purple； and the pope's seat was on a raised dais at the end。 Outsiders could see nothing of what went on within there； and the ladies under the dome could only partially see； in the seats they had fought so gallantly to obtain。
St。 Peter's is a good place for grand processions and ceremonies； but it is a poor one for viewing them。 A procession which moves down the nave is hidden by the soldiers who stand on either side； or is visible only by sections as it passes： there is no good place to get the grand effect of the masses of color； and the total of the gorgeous pageantry。 I should like to see the display upon a grand stage； and enjoy it in a coup d；oeil。 It is a fine study of color and effect； and the groupings are admirable； but the whole affair is nearly lost to the mass of spectators。 It must be a sublime feeling to one in the procession to walk about in such monstrous fine clothes； but what would his emotions be if more people could see him！ The grand altar stuck up under the dome not only breaks the effect of what would be the fine sweep of the nave back to the apse； but it cuts off all view of the celebration of the mass behind it； and； in effect； reduces what should be the great point of display in the church to a mere chapel。 And when you add to that the temporary tribunes erected under the dome for seating the ladies； the entire nave is shut off from a view of the gorgeous ceremony of high mass。 The effect would be incomparable if one could stand in the door； or anywhere in the nave； and； as in other churches； look down to the end upon a great platform） with the high altar and all the sublime spectacle in full view； with the blaze of candles and the clouds of incense rising in the distance。
At half…past nine the great doors opened； and the procession began； in slow and stately moving fashion； to enter。 One saw a throng of ecclesiastics in robes and ermine； the white plumes of the Guard Noble； the pages and chamberlains in scarlet； other pages； or what not； in black short…clothes； short swords； gold chains； cloak hanging from the shoulder； and stiff white ruffs； thirty…six cardinals in violet robes； with high miter…shaped white silk hats； that looked not unlike the pasteboard 〃trainer…caps〃 that boys wear when they play soldier； crucifixes； and a blazoned banner here and there； and； at last； the pope； in his red chair； borne on the shoulders of red lackeys； heaving along in a sea…sicky motion； clad in scarlet and gold； with a silver miter on his head； feebly making the papal benediction with two upraised fingers； and moving his lips in blessing。 As the pope came in； a supplementary choir of men and soprano hybrids； stationed near the door； set up a high； welcoming song； or chant； which echoed rather finely through the building。 All the music of the day is vocal。
The procession having reached its destination； and disappeared behind the altar of the dome； the pope dismounted； and took his seat on his throne。 The blessing of the palms began； the cardinals first approaching； and afterwards the members of the diplomatic corps； the archbishops and bishops； the heads of the religious orders； and such private persons as have had permission to do so。 I had previously seen the palms carried in by servants in great baskets。 It is； perhaps； not necessary to say that they are not the poetical green waving palms； but stiff sort of wands； woven out of dry； yellow； split palm…leaves； sometimes four or five feet in length； braided into the semblance of a crown on top；a kind of rough basket…work。 The palms having been blessed； a procession was again formed down the nave and out the door； all in it 〃carrying palms in their hands；〃 the yellow color of which added a new element of picturesqueness to the splendid pageant。 The pope was carried as before； and bore in his hand a short braided palm； with gold woven in； flowers added； and the monogram 〃I。 H。 S。〃 worked in the top。 It is the pope's custom to give this away when the ceremony is over。 Last year he presented it to an American lady； whose devotion attracted him； this year I saw it go away in a gilded coach in the hands of an ecclesiastic。 The procession disappeared through the great portal into the vestibule； and the door closed。 In a moment somebody knocked three times on the door： it opened； and the procession returned； and moved again to the rear of the altar； the singers marching with it and chanting。 The cardinals then changed their violet for scarlet robes； and high mass； for an hour； was celebrated by a cardinal priest： and I was told that it was the pope's voice that we heard； high and clear； singing the passion。 The choir made the responses； and performed at intervals。 The singing was not without a certain power； indeed； it was marvelous how some of the voices really filled the vast spaces of the edifice； and the choruses rolled in solemn waves of sound through the arches。 The singing； with the male sopranos； is not to my taste； but it cannot be denied that it had a wild and strange effect。
While this was going on behind the altar； the people outside were wandering about； looking at each other； and on the watch not to miss any of the shows of the day。 People were talking； chattering； and greeting each other as the