diameter； the lower is a little convex； to which the concavity of
the upper must be fitted。 In the middle of the upper stone is a
round hole； and on one side is a long handle。 The grinder sheds
the corn gradually into the hole with one hand； and works the
handle round with the other。 The corn slides down the convexity of
the lower stone； and by the motion of the upper is ground in its
passage。 These stones are found in Lochabar。
The Islands afford few pleasures； except to the hardy sportsman；
who can tread the moor and climb the mountain。 The distance of one
family from another； in a country where travelling has so much
difficulty； makes frequent intercourse impracticable。 Visits last
several days； and are commonly paid by water； yet I never saw a
boat furnished with benches； or made commodious by any addition to
the first fabric。 Conveniences are not missed where they never
were enjoyed。
The solace which the bagpipe can give； they have long enjoyed； but
among other changes； which the last Revolution introduced； the use
of the bagpipe begins to be forgotten。 Some of the chief families
still entertain a piper； whose office was anciently hereditary。
Macrimmon was piper to Macleod； and Rankin to Maclean of Col。
The tunes of the bagpipe are traditional。 There has been in Sky；
beyond all time of memory； a college of pipers； under the direction
of Macrimmon； which is not quite extinct。 There was another in
Mull； superintended by Rankin； which expired about sixteen years
ago。 To these colleges； while the pipe retained its honour； the
students of musick repaired for education。 I have had my dinner
exhilarated by the bagpipe； at Armidale； at Dunvegan； and in Col。
The general conversation of the Islanders has nothing particular。
I did not meet with the inquisitiveness of which I have read； and
suspect the judgment to have been rashly made。 A stranger of
curiosity comes into a place where a stranger is seldom seen： he
importunes the people with questions； of which they cannot guess
the motive； and gazes with surprise on things which they； having
had them always before their eyes； do not suspect of any thing
wonderful。 He appears to them like some being of another world；
and then thinks it peculiar that they take their turn to inquire
whence he comes； and whither he is going。
The Islands were long unfurnished with instruction for youth； and
none but the sons of gentlemen could have any literature。 There
are now parochial schools； to which the lord of every manor pays a
certain stipend。 Here the children are taught to read； but by the
rule of their institution； they teach only English； so that the
natives read a language which they may never use or understand。 If
a parish； which often happens； contains several Islands； the school
being but in one； cannot assist the rest。 This is the state of
Col； which； however； is more enlightened than some other places；
for the deficiency is supplied by a young gentleman； who； for his
own improvement； travels every year on foot over the Highlands to
the session at Aberdeen； and at his return； during the vacation；
teaches to read and write in his native Island。
In Sky there are two grammar schools； where boarders are taken to
be regularly educated。 The price of board is from three pounds； to
four pounds ten shillings a year； and that of instruction is half a
crown a quarter。 But the scholars are birds of passage； who live
at school only in the summer； for in winter provisions cannot be
made for any considerable number in one place。 This periodical
dispersion impresses strongly the scarcity of these countries。
Having heard of no boarding…school for ladies nearer than
Inverness； I suppose their education is generally domestick。 The
elder daughters of the higher families are sent into the world； and
may contribute by their acquisitions to the improvement of the
rest。
Women must here study to be either pleasing or useful。 Their
deficiencies are seldom supplied by very liberal fortunes。 A
hundred pounds is a portion beyond the hope of any but the Laird's
daughter。 They do not indeed often give money with their
daughters； the question is； How many cows a young lady will bring
her husband。 A rich maiden has from ten to forty； but two cows are
a decent fortune for one who pretends to no distinction。
The religion of the Islands is that of the Kirk of Scotland。 The
gentlemen with whom I conversed are all inclined to the English
liturgy； but they are obliged to maintain the established Minister；
and the country is too poor to afford payment to another； who must
live wholly on the contribution of his audience。
They therefore all attend the worship of the Kirk； as often as a
visit from their Minister； or the practicability of travelling
gives them opportunity； nor have they any reason to complain of
insufficient pastors； for I saw not one in the Islands； whom I had
reason to think either deficient in learning； or irregular in life：
but found several with whom I could not converse without wishing；
as my respect increased； that they had not been Presbyterians。
The ancient rigour of puritanism is now very much relaxed； though
all are not yet equally enlightened。 I sometimes met with
prejudices sufficiently malignant； but they were prejudices of
ignorance。 The Ministers in the Islands had attained such
knowledge as may justly be admired in men； who have no motive to
study； but generous curiosity； or； what is still better； desire of
usefulness； with such politeness as so narrow a circle of converse
could not have supplied； but to minds naturally disposed to
elegance。
Reason and truth will prevail at last。 The most learned of the
Scottish Doctors would now gladly admit a form of prayer； if the
people would endure it。 The zeal or rage of congregations has its
different degrees。 In some parishes the Lord's Prayer is suffered：
in others it is still rejected as a form； and he that should make
it part of his supplication would be suspected of heretical
pravity。
The principle upon which extemporary prayer was originally
introduced； is no longer admitted。 The Minister formerly； in the
effusion of his prayer； expected immediate； and perhaps perceptible
inspiration； and therefore thought it his duty not to think before
what he should say。 It is now universally confessed； that men pray
as they speak on other occasions； according to the general measure
of their abilities and attainments。 Whatever each may think of a
form prescribed by another； he cannot but believe that he can
himself compose by study and meditation a better prayer than will
rise in his mind at a sudden call； and if he has any hope of
supernatural help； why may he not as well receive it when he writes
as when he speaks？
In the variety of mental powers； some must perform extemporary
prayer with much imperfection； and in the eagerness and rashness of
contradictory opinions； if publick liturgy be left to the private
judgment of every Minister； the congregation may often be offended
or misled。
There is in Scotland； as among ourselves； a restless suspicion of
popish machinations； and a clamour of numerous converts to the
Romish religion。 The report is； I believe； in both parts of the
Island equally false。 The Romish religion is professed only in Egg
and Canna； two small islands； into which the Reformation never made
its way。 If any missionaries are busy in the Highlands； their zeal
entitles them to respect； even from those who cannot think
favourably of their doctrine。
The political tenets of the Islanders I was not curious to
investigate； and they were not eager to obtrude。 Their
conversation is decent and inoffensive。 They disdain to drink for
their principles； and there is no disaffection at their tables。 I
never heard a health offered by a Highlander that might not have
circulated with propriety within the precincts of the King's
palace。
Legal government has yet something of novelty to which they cannot
perfectly conform。 The ancient spirit； that appealed only to the
sword； is yet among them。 The tenant of Scalpa； an island
belonging to Macdonald； took no care to bring his rent； when the
landlord talked of exacting payment； he declared his resolution to
keep his ground； and drive all intruders from the Island； and
continued to feed his cattle as on his own land； till it became
necessary for the Sheriff to dislodge him by violence。
The various kinds of superstition which prevailed here； as in all
other regions of ignorance； are by the diligence of the Ministers
almost extirpated。
Of Browny； mentioned by Martin； nothing has been heard for many
years。 Browny was a sturdy Fairy； who； if he was fed； and kindly
treated； would； as they said； do a great deal of work。 They now
pay him no wages； and are content to labour for themselves。
In Troda； within these three…and…thirty years； milk was put every
Saturday for Greogach； or 'the Old Man with the Long Beard。'
Whether Greogach was courted as kind； or dreaded as terrible；
whether they meant； by giving him the milk； to obtain good； or
avert evil； I was not informed。 The Minister is now living by whom
the pract