education； and leaves the young gentleman； our friend； to govern
his dominions； with the full power of a Highland Chief。 By the
absence of the Laird's family； our entertainment was made more
difficult； because the house was in a great degree disfurnished；
but young Col's kindness and activity supplied all defects； and
procured us more than sufficient accommodation。
Here I first mounted a little Highland steed； and if there had been
many spectators； should have been somewhat ashamed of my figure in
the march。 The horses of the Islands； as of other barren
countries； are very low： they are indeed musculous and strong；
beyond what their size gives reason for expecting； but a bulky man
upon one of their backs makes a very disproportionate appearance。
From the habitation of Captain Maclean； we went to Grissipol； but
called by the way on Mr。 Hector Maclean； the Minister of Col； whom
we found in a hut； that is； a house of only one floor； but with
windows and chimney； and not inelegantly furnished。 Mr。 Maclean
has the reputation of great learning： he is seventy…seven years
old； but not infirm； with a look of venerable dignity； excelling
what I remember in any other man。
His conversation was not unsuitable to his appearance。 I lost some
of his good…will； by treating a heretical writer with more regard
than； in his opinion； a heretick could deserve。 I honoured his
orthodoxy； and did not much censure his asperity。 A man who has
settled his opinions； does not love to have the tranquillity of his
conviction disturbed； and at seventy…seven it is time to be in
earnest。
Mention was made of the Earse translation of the New Testament；
which has been lately published； and of which the learned Mr。
Macqueen of Sky spoke with commendation； but Mr。 Maclean said he
did not use it； because he could make the text more intelligible to
his auditors by an extemporary version。 From this I inferred； that
the language of the translation was not the language of the Isle of
Col。
He has no publick edifice for the exercise of his ministry； and can
officiate to no greater number； than a room can contain； and the
room of a hut is not very large。 This is all the opportunity of
worship that is now granted to the inhabitants of the Island； some
of whom must travel thither perhaps ten miles。 Two chapels were
erected by their ancestors； of which I saw the skeletons； which now
stand faithful witnesses of the triumph of the Reformation。
The want of churches is not the only impediment to piety： there is
likewise a want of Ministers。 A parish often contains more Islands
than one； and each Island can have the Minister only in its own
turn。 At Raasa they had； I think； a right to service only every
third Sunday。 All the provision made by the present ecclesiastical
constitution； for the inhabitants of about a hundred square miles；
is a prayer and sermon in a little room； once in three weeks： and
even this parsimonious distribution is at the mercy of the weather；
and in those Islands where the Minister does not reside； it is
impossible to tell how many weeks or months may pass without any
publick exercise of religion。
GRISSIPOL IN COL
After a short conversation with Mr。 Maclean； we went on to
Grissipol； a house and farm tenanted by Mr。 Macsweyn； where I saw
more of the ancient life of a Highlander； than I had yet found。
Mrs。 Macsweyn could speak no English； and had never seen any other
places than the Islands of Sky； Mull； and Col： but she was
hospitable and good…humoured； and spread her table with sufficient
liberality。 We found tea here； as in every other place； but our
spoons were of horn。
The house of Grissipol stands by a brook very clear and quick；
which is； I suppose； one of the most copious streams in the Island。
This place was the scene of an action； much celebrated in the
traditional history of Col； but which probably no two relaters will
tell alike。
Some time； in the obscure ages； Macneil of Barra married the Lady
Maclean； who had the Isle of Col for her jointure。 Whether Macneil
detained Col； when the widow was dead； or whether she lived so long
as to make her heirs impatient； is perhaps not now known。 The
younger son； called John Gerves； or John the Giant； a man of great
strength who was then in Ireland； either for safety； or for
education； dreamed of recovering his inheritance； and getting some
adventurers together； which； in those unsettled times； was not hard
to do； invaded Col。 He was driven away； but was not discouraged；
and collecting new followers； in three years came again with fifty
men。 In his way he stopped at Artorinish in Morvern； where his
uncle was prisoner to Macleod； and was then with his enemies in a
tent。 Maclean took with him only one servant； whom he ordered to
stay at the outside； and where he should see the tent pressed
outwards； to strike with his dirk； it being the intention of
Maclean； as any man provoked him； to lay hands upon him； and push
him back。 He entered the tent alone； with his Lochabar…axe in his
hand； and struck such terror into the whole assembly； that they
dismissed his uncle。
When he landed at Col； he saw the sentinel； who kept watch towards
the sea； running off to Grissipol； to give Macneil； who was there
with a hundred and twenty men； an account of the invasion。 He told
Macgill； one of his followers； that if he intercepted that
dangerous intelligence； by catching the courier； he would give him
certain lands in Mull。 Upon this promise； Macgill pursued the
messenger； and either killed； or stopped him； and his posterity；
till very lately； held the lands in Mull。
The alarm being thus prevented； he came unexpectedly upon Macneil。
Chiefs were in those days never wholly unprovided for an enemy。 A
fight ensued； in which one of their followers is said to have given
an extraordinary proof of activity； by bounding backwards over the
brook of Grissipol。 Macneil being killed； and many of his clan
destroyed； Maclean took possession of the Island； which the
Macneils attempted to conquer by another invasion； but were
defeated and repulsed。
Maclean； in his turn； invaded the estate of the Macneils； took the
castle of Brecacig； and conquered the Isle of Barra； which he held
for seven years； and then restored it to the heirs。
CASTLE OF COL
From Grissipol； Mr。 Maclean conducted us to his father's seat； a
neat new house； erected near the old castle； I think； by the last
proprietor。 Here we were allowed to take our station； and lived
very commodiously； while we waited for moderate weather and a fair
wind； which we did not so soon obtain； but we had time to get some
information of the present state of Col； partly by inquiry； and
partly by occasional excursions。
Col is computed to be thirteen miles in length； and three in
breadth。 Both the ends are the property of the Duke of Argyle； but
the middle belongs to Maclean； who is called Col； as the only
Laird。
Col is not properly rocky； it is rather one continued rock； of a
surface much diversified with protuberances； and covered with a
thin layer of earth； which is often broken； and discovers the
stone。 Such a soil is not for plants that strike deep roots； and
perhaps in the whole Island nothing has ever yet grown to the
height of a table。 The uncultivated parts are clothed with heath；
among which industry has interspersed spots of grass and corn； but
no attempt has yet been made to raise a tree。 Young Col； who has a
very laudable desire of improving his patrimony； purposes some time
to plant an orchard； which； if it be sheltered by a wall； may
perhaps succeed。 He has introduced the culture of turnips； of
which he has a field； where the whole work was performed by his own
hand。 His intention is to provide food for his cattle in the
winter。 This innovation was considered by Mr。 Macsweyn as the idle
project of a young head； heated with English fancies； but he has
now found that turnips will really grow； and that hungry sheep and
cows will really eat them。
By such acquisitions as these； the Hebrides may in time rise above
their annual distress。 Wherever heath will grow； there is reason
to think something better may draw nourishment； and by trying the
production of other places； plants will be found suitable to every
soil。
Col has many lochs； some of which have trouts and eels； and others
have never yet been stocked； another proof of the negligence of the
Islanders； who might take fish in the inland waters； when they
cannot go to sea。
Their quadrupeds are horses； cows； sheep； and goats。 They have
neither deer； hares； nor rabbits。 They have no vermin； except
rats； which have been lately brought thither by sea； as to other
places； and are free from serpents； frogs； and toads。
The harvest in Col； and in Lewis； is ripe sooner than in Sky； and
the winter in Col is never cold； but very tempestuous。 I know not
that I ever heard the wind so loud in any other place； and Mr。
Boswell observed； that its noise was all its own； for there were no
trees to increase it。
Noise is not the worst effect of the tempests； for they have thrown
the sand from the shore over a considerable part of t