the sand from the shore over a considerable part of the land； and
it is said still to encroach and destroy more and more pasture； but
I am not of opinion； that by any surveys or landmarks； its limits
have been ever fixed； or its progression ascertained。 If one man
has confidence enough to say； that it advances； nobody can bring
any proof to support him in denying it。 The reason why it is not
spread to a greater extent； seems to be； that the wind and rain
come almost together； and that it is made close and heavy by the
wet before the storms can put it in motion。 So thick is the bed；
and so small the particles； that if a traveller should be caught by
a sudden gust in dry weather； he would find it very difficult to
escape with life。
For natural curiosities； I was shown only two great masses of
stone； which lie loose upon the ground； one on the top of a hill；
and the other at a small distance from the bottom。 They certainly
were never put into their present places by human strength or
skill； and though an earthquake might have broken off the lower
stone； and rolled it into the valley； no account can be given of
the other； which lies on the hill； unless； which I forgot to
examine； there be still near it some higher rock； from which it
might be torn。 All nations have a tradition； that their earliest
ancestors were giants； and these stones are said to have been
thrown up and down by a giant and his mistress。 There are so many
more important things； of which human knowledge can give no
account； that it may be forgiven us； if we speculate no longer on
two stones in Col。
This Island is very populous。 About nine…and…twenty years ago； the
fencible men of Col were reckoned one hundred and forty； which is
the sixth of eight hundred and forty； and probably some contrived
to be left out of the list。 The Minister told us； that a few years
ago the inhabitants were eight hundred； between the ages of seven
and of seventy。 Round numbers are seldom exact。 But in this case
the authority is good； and the errour likely to be little。 If to
the eight hundred be added what the laws of computation require；
they will be increased to at least a thousand； and if the
dimensions of the country have been accurately related； every mile
maintains more than twenty…five。
This proportion of habitation is greater than the appearance of the
country seems to admit； for wherever the eye wanders； it sees much
waste and little cultivation。 I am more inclined to extend the
land； of which no measure has ever been taken； than to diminish the
people； who have been really numbered。 Let it be supposed； that a
computed mile contains a mile and a half； as was commonly found
true in the mensuration of the English roads； and we shall then
allot nearly twelve to a mile； which agrees much better with ocular
observation。
Here； as in Sky； and other Islands； are the Laird； the Tacksmen；
and the under tenants。
Mr。 Maclean； the Laird； has very extensive possessions； being
proprietor； not only of far the greater part of Col； but of the
extensive Island of Rum； and a very considerable territory in Mull。
Rum is one of the larger Islands； almost square； and therefore of
great capacity in proportion to its sides。 By the usual method of
estimating computed extent； it may contain more than a hundred and
twenty square miles。
It originally belonged to Clanronald； and was purchased by Col；
who； in some dispute about the bargain； made Clanronald prisoner；
and kept him nine months in confinement。 Its owner represents it
as mountainous； rugged； and barren。 In the hills there are red
deer。 The horses are very small； but of a breed eminent for
beauty。 Col； not long ago； bought one of them from a tenant； who
told him； that as he was of a shape uncommonly elegant； he could
not sell him but at a high price； and that whoever had him should
pay a guinea and a half。
There are said to be in Barra a race of horses yet smaller； of
which the highest is not above thirty…six inches。
The rent of Rum is not great。 Mr。 Maclean declared； that he should
be very rich； if he could set his land at two…pence halfpenny an
acre。 The inhabitants are fifty…eight families； who continued
Papists for some time after the Laird became a Protestant。 Their
adherence to their old religion was strengthened by the countenance
of the Laird's sister； a zealous Romanist； till one Sunday； as they
were going to mass under the conduct of their patroness； Maclean
met them on the way； gave one of them a blow on the head with a
yellow stick； I suppose a cane； for which the Earse had no name；
and drove them to the kirk； from which they have never since
departed。 Since the use of this method of conversion； the
inhabitants of Egg and Canna； who continue Papists； call the
Protestantism of Rum； the religion of the Yellow Stick。
The only Popish Islands are Egg and Canna。 Egg is the principal
Island of a parish； in which； though he has no congregation； the
Protestant Minister resides。 I have heard of nothing curious in
it； but the cave in which a former generation of the Islanders were
smothered by Macleod。
If we had travelled with more leisure； it had not been fit to have
neglected the Popish Islands。 Popery is favourable to ceremony；
and among ignorant nations； ceremony is the only preservative of
tradition。 Since protestantism was extended to the savage parts of
Scotland； it has perhaps been one of the chief labours of the
Ministers to abolish stated observances； because they continued the
remembrance of the former religion。 We therefore who came to hear
old traditions； and see antiquated manners； should probably have
found them amongst the Papists。
Canna； the other Popish Island； belongs to Clanronald。 It is said
not to comprise more than twelve miles of land； and yet maintains
as many inhabitants as Rum。
We were at Col under the protection of the young Laird； without any
of the distresses； which Mr。 Pennant； in a fit of simple credulity；
seems to think almost worthy of an elegy by Ossian。 Wherever we
roved； we were pleased to see the reverence with which his subjects
regarded him。 He did not endeavour to dazzle them by any
magnificence of dress： his only distinction was a feather in his
bonnet； but as soon as he appeared； they forsook their work and
clustered about him： he took them by the hand； and they seemed
mutually delighted。 He has the proper disposition of a Chieftain；
and seems desirous to continue the customs of his house。 The
bagpiper played regularly； when dinner was served； whose person and
dress made a good appearance； and he brought no disgrace upon the
family of Rankin； which has long supplied the Lairds of Col with
hereditary musick。
The Tacksmen of Col seem to live with less dignity and convenience
than those of Sky； where they had good houses； and tables not only
plentiful； but delicate。 In Col only two houses pay the window
tax； for only two have six windows； which； I suppose； are the
Laird's and Mr。 Macsweyn's。
The rents have； till within seven years； been paid in kind； but the
tenants finding that cattle and corn varied in their price； desired
for the future to give their landlord money； which； not having yet
arrived at the philosophy of commerce； they consider as being every
year of the same value。
We were told of a particular mode of under…tenure。 The Tacksman
admits some of his inferior neighbours to the cultivation of his
grounds； on condition that performing all the work； and giving a
third part of the seed； they shall keep a certain number of cows；
sheep； and goats； and reap a third part of the harvest。 Thus by
less than the tillage of two acres they pay the rent of one。
There are tenants below the rank of Tacksmen； that have got smaller
tenants under them； for in every place； where money is not the
general equivalent； there must be some whose labour is immediately
paid by daily food。
A country that has no money； is by no means convenient for beggars；
both because such countries are commonly poor； and because charity
requires some trouble and some thought。 A penny is easily given
upon the first impulse of compassion； or impatience of importunity；
but few will deliberately search their cupboards or their granaries
to find out something to give。 A penny is likewise easily spent；
but victuals； if they are unprepared； require houseroom； and fire；
and utensils； which the beggar knows not where to find。
Yet beggars there sometimes are； who wander from Island to Island。
We had； in our passage to Mull； the company of a woman and her
child； who had exhausted the charity of Col。 The arrival of a
beggar on an Island is accounted a sinistrous event。 Every body
considers that he shall have the less for what he gives away。
Their alms； I believe； is generally oatmeal。
Near to Col is another Island called Tireye； eminent for its
fertility。 Though it has but half the extent of Rum； it is so well
peopled； that there have appeared； not long ago； nine hundred and
fourteen at a funeral。 The plenty of this Island enticed beggars
to it； who seemed so burdensome to the inhabitants； that a formal
compact was drawn up； by which the