by travel or instruction； by philosophy or vanity； nor is public
happiness to be estimated by the assemblies of the gay； or the
banquets of the rich。 The great mass of nations is neither rich
nor gay： they whose aggregate constitutes the people； are found in
the streets； and the villages； in the shops and farms； and from
them collectively considered； must the measure of general
prosperity be taken。 As they approach to delicacy a nation is
refined； as their conveniences are multiplied； a nation； at least a
commercial nation； must be denominated wealthy。
ELGIN
Finding nothing to detain us at Bamff； we set out in the morning；
and having breakfasted at Cullen； about noon came to Elgin； where
in the inn； that we supposed the best； a dinner was set before us；
which we could not eat。 This was the first time； and except one；
the last； that I found any reason to complain of a Scotish table；
and such disappointments； I suppose； must be expected in every
country； where there is no great frequency of travellers。
The ruins of the cathedral of Elgin afforded us another proof of
the waste of reformation。 There is enough yet remaining to shew；
that it was once magnificent。 Its whole plot is easily traced。 On
the north side of the choir； the chapter…house； which is roofed
with an arch of stone； remains entire； and on the south side；
another mass of building； which we could not enter； is preserved by
the care of the family of Gordon； but the body of the church is a
mass of fragments。
A paper was here put into our hands； which deduced from sufficient
authorities the history of this venerable ruin。 The church of
Elgin had； in the intestine tumults of the barbarous ages； been
laid waste by the irruption of a highland chief； whom the bishop
had offended； but it was gradually restored to the state； of which
the traces may be now discerned； and was at last not destroyed by
the tumultuous violence of Knox； but more shamefully suffered to
dilapidate by deliberate robbery and frigid indifference。 There is
still extant； in the books of the council； an order； of which I
cannot remember the date； but which was doubtless issued after the
Reformation； directing that the lead； which covers the two
cathedrals of Elgin and Aberdeen； shall be taken away； and
converted into money for the support of the army。 A Scotch army
was in those times very cheaply kept； yet the lead of two churches
must have born so small a proportion to any military expence； that
it is hard not to believe the reason alleged to be merely popular；
and the money intended for some private purse。 The order however
was obeyed； the two churches were stripped； and the lead was
shipped to be sold in Holland。 I hope every reader will rejoice
that this cargo of sacrilege was lost at sea。
Let us not however make too much haste to despise our neighbours。
Our own cathedrals are mouldering by unregarded dilapidation。 It
seems to be part of the despicable philosophy of the time to
despise monuments of sacred magnificence； and we are in danger of
doing that deliberately； which the Scots did not do but in the
unsettled state of an imperfect constitution。
Those who had once uncovered the cathedrals never wished to cover
them again； and being thus made useless； they were； first
neglected； and perhaps； as the stone was wanted； afterwards
demolished。
Elgin seems a place of little trade； and thinly inhabited。 The
episcopal cities of Scotland； I believe； generally fell with their
churches； though some of them have since recovered by a situation
convenient for commerce。 Thus Glasgow； though it has no longer an
archbishop； has risen beyond its original state by the opulence of
its traders； and Aberdeen； though its ancient stock had decayed；
flourishes by a new shoot in another place。
In the chief street of Elgin； the houses jut over the lowest story；
like the old buildings of timber in London； but with greater
prominence； so that there is sometimes a walk for a considerable
length under a cloister； or portico； which is now indeed frequently
broken； because the new houses have another form； but seems to have
been uniformly continued in the old city。
FORES。 CALDER。 FORT GEORGE
We went forwards the same day to Fores； the town to which Macbeth
was travelling； when he met the weird sisters in his way。 This to
an Englishman is classic ground。 Our imaginations were heated； and
our thoughts recalled to their old amusements。
We had now a prelude to the Highlands。 We began to leave fertility
and culture behind us； and saw for a great length of road nothing
but heath； yet at Fochabars； a seat belonging to the duke of
Gordon； there is an orchard； which in Scotland I had never seen
before； with some timber trees； and a plantation of oaks。
At Fores we found good accommodation； but nothing worthy of
particular remark； and next morning entered upon the road； on which
Macbeth heard the fatal prediction； but we travelled on not
interrupted by promises of kingdoms； and came to Nairn； a royal
burgh； which； if once it flourished； is now in a state of miserable
decay； but I know not whether its chief annual magistrate has not
still the title of Lord Provost。
At Nairn we may fix the verge of the Highlands； for here I first
saw peat fires； and first heard the Erse language。 We had no
motive to stay longer than to breakfast； and went forward to the
house of Mr。 Macaulay； the minister who published an account of St。
Kilda； and by his direction visited Calder Castle； from which
Macbeth drew his second title。 It has been formerly a place of
strength。 The draw…bridge is still to be seen； but the moat is now
dry。 The tower is very ancient： Its walls are of great thickness；
arched on the top with stone； and surrounded with battlements。 The
rest of the house is later； though far from modern。
We were favoured by a gentleman； who lives in the castle； with a
letter to one of the officers at Fort George； which being the most
regular fortification in the island； well deserves the notice of a
traveller； who has never travelled before。 We went thither next
day； found a very kind reception； were led round the works by a
gentleman； who explained the use of every part； and entertained by
Sir Eyre Coote； the governour； with such elegance of conversation
as left us no attention to the delicacies of his table。
Of Fort George I shall not attempt to give any account。 I cannot
delineate it scientifically； and a loose and popular description is
of use only when the imagination is to be amused。 There was every
where an appearance of the utmost neatness and regularity。 But my
suffrage is of little value； because this and Fort Augustus are the
only garrisons that I ever saw。
We did not regret the time spent at the fort； though in consequence
of our delay we came somewhat late to Inverness； the town which may
properly be called the capital of the Highlands。 Hither the
inhabitants of the inland parts come to be supplied with what they
cannot make for themselves： Hither the young nymphs of the
mountains and valleys are sent for education； and as far as my
observation has reached； are not sent in vain。
INVERNESS
Inverness was the last place which had a regular communication by
high roads with the southern counties。 All the ways beyond it
have； I believe； been made by the soldiers in this century。 At
Inverness therefore Cromwell； when he subdued Scotland； stationed a
garrison； as at the boundary of the Highlands。 The soldiers seem
to have incorporated afterwards with the inhabitants； and to have
peopled the place with an English race； for the language of this
town has been long considered as peculiarly elegant。
Here is a castle； called the castle of Macbeth； the walls of which
are yet standing。 It was no very capacious edifice； but stands
upon a rock so high and steep； that I think it was once not
accessible； but by the help of ladders； or a bridge。 Over against
it； on another hill； was a fort built by Cromwell； now totally
demolished； for no faction of Scotland loved the name of Cromwell；
or had any desire to continue his memory。
Yet what the Romans did to other nations； was in a great degree
done by Cromwell to the Scots； he civilized them by conquest； and
introduced by useful violence the arts of peace。 I was told at
Aberdeen that the people learned from Cromwell's soldiers to make
shoes and to plant kail。
How they lived without kail； it is not easy to guess： They
cultivate hardly any other plant for common tables； and when they
had not kail they probably had nothing。 The numbers that go
barefoot are still sufficient to shew that shoes may be spared：
They are not yet considered as necessaries of life； for tall boys；
not otherwise meanly dressed； run without them in the streets； and
in the islands the sons of gentlemen pass several of their first
years with naked feet。
I know not whether it be not peculiar to the Scots to have attained
the liberal； without the manual arts； to have excelled in
ornamental knowledge； and to have wanted not only the elegancies；
but the conveniences of common life。 Literature soon after its
revival