end； which broke down under their weight； and admitted the whole
inundation； so that I had to close the shoji； with the fatiguing
consciousness during the whole time of nominal rest of a multitude
surging outside。 Then five policemen in black alpaca frock…coats
and white trousers invaded my precarious privacy； desiring to see
my passporta demand never made before except where I halted for
the night。 In their European clothes they cannot bow with Japanese
punctiliousness； but they were very polite； and expressed great
annoyance at the crowd； and dispersed it； but they had hardly
disappeared when it gathered again。 When I went out I found fully
1000 people helping me to realise how the crowded cities of Judea
sent forth people clothed much as these are when the Miracle…Worker
from Galilee arrived； but not what the fatigue of the crowding and
buzzing must have been to One who had been preaching and working
during the long day。 These Japanese crowds； however； are quiet and
gentle； and never press rudely upon one。 I could not find it in my
heart to complain of them except to you。 Four of the policemen
returned； and escorted me to the outskirts of the town。 The noise
made by 1000 people shuffling along in clogs is like the clatter of
a hail…storm。
After this there was a dismal tramp of five hours through rice…
fields。 The moist climate and the fatigue of this manner of
travelling are deteriorating my health； and the pain in my spine；
which has been daily increasing； was so severe that I could neither
ride nor walk for more than twenty minutes at a time； and the pace
was so slow that it was six when we reached Bange； a commercial
town of 5000 people； literally in the rice swamp； mean； filthy；
damp； and decaying； and full of an overpowering stench from black；
slimy ditches。 The mercury was 84 degrees； and hot rain fell fast
through the motionless air。 We dismounted in a shed full of bales
of dried fish； which gave off an overpowering odour； and wet and
dirty people crowded in to stare at the foreigner till the air
seemed unbreathable。
But there were signs of progress。 A three days' congress of
schoolmasters was being held； candidates for vacant situations were
being examined； there were lengthy educational discussions going
on； specially on the subject of the value of the Chinese classics
as a part of education； and every inn was crowded。
Bange was malarious： there was so much malarious fever that the
Government had sent additional medical assistance； the hills were
only a ri off； and it seemed essential to go on。 But not a horse
could be got till 10 p。m。； the road was worse than the one I had
travelled； the pain became more acute； and I more exhausted； and I
was obliged to remain。 Then followed a weary hour； in which the
Express Agent's five emissaries were searching for a room； and
considerably after dark I found myself in a rambling old over…
crowded yadoya； where my room was mainly built on piles above
stagnant water； and the mosquitoes were in such swarms as to make
the air dense； and after a feverish and miserable night I was glad
to get up early and depart。
Fully 2000 people had assembled。 After I was mounted I was on the
point of removing my Dollond from the case； which hung on the
saddle horn； when a regular stampede occurred； old and young
running as fast as they possibly could； children being knocked down
in the haste of their elders。 Ito said that they thought I was
taking out a pistol to frighten them； and I made him explain what
the object really was； for they are a gentle； harmless people； whom
one would not annoy without sincere regret。 In many European
countries； and certainly in some parts of our own； a solitary lady…
traveller in a foreign dress would be exposed to rudeness； insult；
and extortion； if not to actual danger； but I have not met with a
single instance of incivility or real overcharge； and there is no
rudeness even about the crowding。 The mago are anxious that I
should not get wet or be frightened； and very scrupulous in seeing
that all straps and loose things are safe at the end of the
journey； and； instead of hanging about asking for gratuities； or
stopping to drink and gossip； they quickly unload the horses； get a
paper from the Transport Agent； and go home。 Only yesterday a
strap was missing； and； though it was after dark； the man went back
a ri for it； and refused to take some sen which I wished to give
him； saying he was responsible for delivering everything right at
the journey's end。 They are so kind and courteous to each other；
which is very pleasing。 Ito is not pleasing or polite in his
manner to me； but when he speaks to his own people he cannot free
himself from the shackles of etiquette； and bows as profoundly and
uses as many polite phrases as anybody else。
In an hour the malarious plain was crossed； and we have been among
piles of mountains ever since。 The infamous road was so slippery
that my horse fell several times； and the baggage horse； with Ito
upon him； rolled head over heels； sending his miscellaneous pack in
all directions。 Good roads are really the most pressing need of
Japan。 It would be far better if the Government were to enrich the
country by such a remunerative outlay as making passable roads for
the transport of goods through the interior； than to impoverish it
by buying ironclads in England； and indulging in expensive western
vanities。
That so horrible a road should have so good a bridge as that by
which we crossed the broad river Agano is surprising。 It consists
of twelve large scows； each one secured to a strong cable of
plaited wistari； which crosses the river at a great height； so as
to allow of the scows and the plank bridge which they carry rising
and falling with the twelve feet variation of the water。
Ito's disaster kept him back for an hour； and I sat meanwhile on a
rice sack in the hamlet of Katakado； a collection of steep…roofed
houses huddled together in a height above the Agano。 It was one
mob of pack…horses； over 200 of them； biting； squealing； and
kicking。 Before I could dismount； one vicious creature struck at
me violently； but only hit the great wooden stirrup。 I could
hardly find any place out of the range of hoofs or teeth。 My
baggage horse showed great fury after he was unloaded。 He attacked
people right and left with his teeth； struck out savagely with his
fore feet； lashed out with his hind ones； and tried to pin his
master up against a wall。
Leaving this fractious scene we struck again through the mountains。
Their ranges were interminable； and every view from every fresh
ridge grander than the last； for we were now near the lofty range
of the Aidzu Mountains； and the double…peaked Bandaisan； the abrupt
precipices of Itoyasan； and the grand mass of Miyojintake in the
south…west； with their vast snow…fields and snow…filled ravines；
were all visible at once。 These summits of naked rock or dazzling
snow； rising above the smothering greenery of the lower ranges into
a heaven of delicious blue； gave exactly that individuality and
emphasis which； to my thinking； Japanese scenery usually lacks。
Riding on first； I arrived alone at the little town of Nozawa； to
encounter the curiosity of a crowd； and； after a rest； we had a
very pleasant walk of three miles along the side of a ridge above a
rapid river with fine grey cliffs on its farther side； with a grand
view of the Aidzu giants； violet coloured in a golden sunset。
At dusk we came upon the picturesque village of Nojiri； on the
margin of a rice valley； but I shrank from spending Sunday in a
hole； and； having spied a solitary house on the very brow of a hill
1500 feet higher； I dragged out the information that it was a tea…
house； and came up to it。 It took three…quarters of an hour to
climb the series of precipitous zigzags by which this remarkable
pass is surmounted； darkness came on； accompanied by thunder and
lightning； and just as we arrived a tremendous zigzag of blue flame
lit up the house and its interior； showing a large group sitting
round a wood fire； and then all was thick darkness again。 It had a
most startling effect。 This house is magnificently situated；
almost hanging over the edge of the knife…like ridge of the pass of
Kuruma； on which it is situated。 It is the only yadoya I have been
at from which there has been any view。 The villages are nearly
always in the valleys； and the best rooms are at the back； and have
their prospects limited by the paling of the conventional garden。
If it were not for the fleas； which are here in legions； I should
stay longer； for the view of the Aidzu snow is delicious； and； as
there are only two other houses； one can ramble without being
mobbed。
In one a child two and a half years old swallowed a fish…bone last
night； and has been suffering and crying all day； and the grief of
the mother so won Ito's sympathy that he took me to see her。 She
had walked up and down with it for eighteen hours； but never
thought of looking into its throat； and was very unwilling that I
should do so。 The bone was visible； and easily removed with a
crochet needle。 An hour later the mother sent a tr