an apology。 A slice of fresh salmon has been produced； and I think
I never tasted anything so delicious。 I have finished the first
part of my land journey； and leave for Niigata by boat to…morrow
morning。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XV
A HurryThe Tsugawa Packet…boatRunning the RapidsFantastic
SceneryThe River…lifeVineyardsDrying BarleySummer Silence
The Outskirts of NiigataThe Church Mission House。
NIIGATA； July 4。
The boat for Niigata was to leave at eight； but at five Ito roused
me by saying they were going at once； as it was full； and we left
in haste； the house…master running to the river with one of my
large baskets on his back to 〃speed the parting guest。〃 Two rivers
unite to form a stream over whose beauty I would gladly have
lingered； and the morning； singularly rich and tender in its
colouring； ripened into a glorious day of light without glare； and
heat without oppressiveness。 The 〃packet〃 was a stoutly…built
boat； 45 feet long by 6 broad； propelled by one man sculling at the
stern； and another pulling a short broad…bladed oar； which worked
in a wistaria loop at the bow。 It had a croquet mallet handle
about 18 inches long； to which the man gave a wriggling turn at
each stroke。 Both rower and sculler stood the whole time； clad in
umbrella hats。 The fore part and centre carried bags of rice and
crates of pottery； and the hinder part had a thatched roof which；
when we started； sheltered twenty…five Japanese； but we dropped
them at hamlets on the river； and reached Niigata with only three。
I had my chair on the top of the cargo； and found the voyage a
delightful change from the fatiguing crawl through quagmires at the
rate of from 15 to 18 miles a day。 This trip is called 〃running
the rapids of the Tsugawa；〃 because for about twelve miles the
river； hemmed in by lofty cliffs； studded with visible and sunken
rocks； making several abrupt turns and shallowing in many places；
hurries a boat swiftly downwards； and it is said that it requires
long practice； skill； and coolness on the part of the boatmen to
prevent grave and frequent accidents。 But if they are rapids； they
are on a small scale； and look anything but formidable。 With the
river at its present height the boats run down forty…five miles in
eight hours； charging only 30 sen； or 1s。 3d。； but it takes from
five to seven days to get up； and much hard work in poling and
towing。
The boat had a thoroughly 〃native〃 look； with its bronzed crew；
thatched roof； and the umbrella hats of all its passengers hanging
on the mast。 I enjoyed every hour of the day。 It was luxury to
drop quietly down the stream； the air was delicious； and； having
heard nothing of it； the beauty of the Tsugawa came upon me as a
pleasant surprise； besides that every mile brought me nearer the
hoped…for home letters。 Almost as soon as we left Tsugawa the
downward passage was apparently barred by fantastic mountains；
which just opened their rocky gates wide enough to let us through；
and then closed again。 Pinnacles and needles of bare； flushed rock
rose out of luxuriant vegetationQuiraing without its bareness；
the Rhine without its ruins； and more beautiful than both。 There
were mountains connected by ridges no broader than a horse's back；
others with great gray buttresses； deep chasms cleft by streams；
temples with pagoda roofs on heights； sunny villages with deep…
thatched roofs hidden away among blossoming trees； and through
rifts in the nearer ranges glimpses of snowy mountains。
After a rapid run of twelve miles through this enchanting scenery；
the remaining course of the Tsugawa is that of a broad； full stream
winding marvellously through a wooded and tolerably level country；
partially surrounded by snowy mountains。 The river life was very
pretty。 Canoes abounded； some loaded with vegetables； some with
wheat； others with boys and girls returning from school。 Sampans
with their white puckered sails in flotillas of a dozen at a time
crawled up the deep water； or were towed through the shallows by
crews frolicking and shouting。 Then the scene changed to a broad
and deep river； with a peculiar alluvial smell from the quantity of
vegetable matter held in suspension； flowing calmly between densely
wooded； bamboo…fringed banks； just high enough to conceal the
surrounding country。 No houses； or nearly none； are to be seen；
but signs of a continuity of population abound。 Every hundred
yards almost there is a narrow path to the river through the
jungle； with a canoe moored at its foot。 Erections like gallows；
with a swinging bamboo； with a bucket at one end and a stone at the
other； occurring continually； show the vicinity of households
dependent upon the river for their water supply。 Wherever the
banks admitted of it； horses were being washed by having water
poured over their backs with a dipper； naked children were rolling
in the mud； and cackling of poultry； human voices； and sounds of
industry； were ever floating towards us from the dense greenery of
the shores； making one feel without seeing that the margin was very
populous。 Except the boatmen and myself； no one was awake during
the hot； silent afternoonit was dreamy and delicious。
Occasionally； as we floated down； vineyards were visible with the
vines trained on horizontal trellises； or bamboo rails； often forty
feet long； nailed horizontally on cryptomeria to a height of twenty
feet； on which small sheaves of barley were placed astride to dry
till the frame was full
More forest； more dreams； then the forest and the abundant
vegetation altogether disappeared； the river opened out among low
lands and banks of shingle and sand； and by three we were on the
outskirts of Niigata； whose low houses；with rows of stones upon
their roofs； spread over a stretch of sand； beyond which is a sandy
roll with some clumps of firs。 Tea…houses with many balconies
studded the river…side； and pleasure…parties were enjoying
themselves with geishas and sake； but； on the whole； the water…side
streets are shabby and tumble down； and the landward side of the
great city of western Japan is certainly disappointing； and it was
difficult to believe it a Treaty Port； for the sea was not in
sight； and there were no consular flags flying。 We poled along one
of the numerous canals； which are the carriage…ways for produce and
goods； among hundreds of loaded boats； landed in the heart of the
city； and； as the result of repeated inquiries； eventually reached
the Church Mission House； an unshaded wooden building without
verandahs； close to the Government Buildings； where I was most
kindly welcomed by Mr。 and Mrs。 Fyson。
The house is plain； simple； and inconveniently small； but doors and
walls are great luxuries； and you cannot imagine how pleasing the
ways of a refined European household are after the eternal
babblement and indecorum of the Japanese。
ITINERARY OF ROUTE FROM NIKKO TO NIIGATA
（Kinugawa Route。）
From Tokiyo to
No。 of houses。 Ri。 Cho
Nikko 36
Kohiaku 6 2 18
Kisagoi 19 1 18
Fujihara 46 2 19
Takahara 15 2 10
Ikari 25 2
Nakamiyo 10 1 24
Yokokawa 2O 2 21
Itosawa 38 2 34
Kayashima 57 1 4
Tajima 25O 1 21
Toyonari 120 2 12
Atomi 34 1
Ouchi 27 2 12
Ichikawa 7 2 22
Takata 42O 2 11
Bange 910 3 4
Katakado 50 1 20
Nosawa 306 3 24
Nojiri 110 1 27
Kurumatoge 3 9
Hozawa 20 1 14
Torige 21 1
Sakaiyama 28 24
Tsugawa 615 2 18
Niigata 50；000 souls 18
Ri。 101 6
About 247 miles。
LETTER XVI
Abominable WeatherInsect PestsAbsence of Foreign TradeA
Refractory RiverProgressThe Japanese CityWater Highways
Niigata GardensRuth FysonThe Winter ClimateA Population in
Wadding。
NIIGATA； July 9。
I have spent over a week in Niigata； and leave it regretfully to…
morrow； rather for the sake of the friends I have made than for its
own interests。 I never experienced a week of more abominable
weather。 The sun has been seen just once； the mountains； which are
thirty miles off； not at all。 The clouds are a brownish grey； the
air moist and motionless； and the mercury has varied from 82
degrees in the day to 80 degrees at night。 The household is
afflicted with lassitude and loss of appetite。 Evening does not
bring coolness； but myriads of flying； creeping； jumping； running
creatures； all with power to hurt； which replace the day
mosquitoes； villains with spotted legs； which bite and poison one
wit