right and left； till； as it surged past the police station； four
policemen came out and arrested it； only to gather again； however；
for there was a longer street； down which my horse proceeded in the
same fashion； and； looking round； I saw Ito's horse on his hind
legs and Ito on the ground。 My beast jumped over all ditches；
attacked all foot…passengers with his teeth； and behaved so like a
wild animal that not all my previous acquaintance with the
idiosyncrasies of horses enabled me to cope with him。 On reaching
Akayu we found a horse fair； and； as all the horses had their heads
tightly tied down to posts； they could only squeal and lash out
with their hind feet； which so provoked our animals that the
baggage horse； by a series of jerks and rearings； divested himself
of Ito and most of the baggage； and； as I dismounted from mine； he
stood upright； and my foot catching I fell on the ground； when he
made several vicious dashes at me with his teeth and fore feet；
which were happily frustrated by the dexterity of some mago。 These
beasts forcibly remind me of the words； 〃Whose mouth must be held
with bit and bridle； lest they turn and fall upon thee。〃
It was a lovely summer day； though very hot； and the snowy peaks of
Aidzu scarcely looked cool as they glittered in the sunlight。 The
plain of Yonezawa； with the prosperous town of Yonezawa in the
south； and the frequented watering…place of Akayu in the north； is
a perfect garden of Eden； 〃tilled with a pencil instead of a
plough；〃 growing in rich profusion rice； cotton； maize； tobacco；
hemp； indigo； beans； egg…plants； walnuts； melons； cucumbers；
persimmons； apricots； pomegranates； a smiling and plenteous land；
an Asiatic Arcadia； prosperous and independent； all its bounteous
acres belonging to those who cultivate them； who live under their
vines； figs； and pomegranates； free from oppressiona remarkable
spectacle under an Asiatic despotism。 Yet still Daikoku is the
chief deity； and material good is the one object of desire。
It is an enchanting region of beauty； industry； and comfort；
mountain girdled； and watered by the bright Matsuka。 Everywhere
there are prosperous and beautiful farming villages； with large
houses with carved beams and ponderous tiled roofs； each standing
in its own grounds； buried among persimmons and pomegranates； with
flower…gardens under trellised vines； and privacy secured by high；
closely…clipped screens of pomegranate and cryptomeria。 Besides
the villages of Yoshida； Semoshima； Kurokawa； Takayama； and
Takataki； through or near which we passed； I counted over fifty on
the plain with their brown； sweeping barn roofs looking out from
the woodland。 I cannot see any differences in the style of
cultivation。 Yoshida is rich and prosperous…looking； Numa poor and
wretched…looking； but the scanty acres of Numa； rescued from the
mountain…sides； are as exquisitely trim and neat； as perfectly
cultivated； and yield as abundantly of the crops which suit the
climate； as the broad acres of the sunny plain of Yonezawa； and
this is the case everywhere。 〃The field of the sluggard〃 has no
existence in Japan。
We rode for four hours through these beautiful villages on a road
four feet wide； and then； to my surprise； after ferrying a river；
emerged at Tsukuno upon what appears on the map as a secondary
road； but which is in reality a main road 25 feet wide； well kept；
trenched on both sides； and with a line of telegraph poles along
it。 It was a new world at once。 The road for many miles was
thronged with well…dressed foot…passengers； kurumas； pack…horses；
and waggons either with solid wheels； or wheels with spokes but no
tires。 It is a capital carriage…road； but without carriages。 In
such civilised circumstances it was curious to see two or four
brown skinned men pulling the carts； and quite often a man and his
wifethe man unclothed； and the woman unclothed to her waist
doing the same。 Also it struck me as incongruous to see telegraph
wires above； and below； men whose only clothing consisted of a sun…
hat and fan； while children with books and slates were returning
from school； conning their lessons。
At Akayu； a town of hot sulphur springs； I hoped to sleep； but it
was one of the noisiest places I have seen。 In the most crowded
part； where four streets meet； there are bathing sheds； which were
full of people of both sexes； splashing loudly； and the yadoya
close to it had about forty rooms； in nearly all of which several
rheumatic people were lying on the mats； samisens were twanging；
and kotos screeching； and the hubbub was so unbearable that I came
on here； ten miles farther； by a fine new road； up an uninteresting
strath of rice…fields and low hills； which opens out upon a small
plain surrounded by elevated gravelly hills； on the slope of one of
which Kaminoyama； a watering…place of over 3000 people； is
pleasantly situated。 It is keeping festival； there are lanterns
and flags on every house； and crowds are thronging the temple
grounds； of which there are several on the hills above。 It is a
clean； dry place； with beautiful yadoyas on the heights； and
pleasant houses with gardens； and plenty of walks over the hills。
The people say that it is one of the driest places in Japan。 If it
were within reach of foreigners； they would find it a wholesome
health resort； with picturesque excursions in many directions。
This is one of the great routes of Japanese travel； and it is
interesting to see watering…places with their habits； amusements；
and civilisation quite complete； but borrowing nothing from Europe。
The hot springs here contain iron； and are strongly impregnated
with sulphuretted hydrogen。 I tried the temperature of three； and
found them 100 degrees； 105 degrees； and 107 degrees。 They are
supposed to be very valuable in rheumatism； and they attract
visitors from great distances。 The police； who are my frequent
informants； tell me that there are nearly 600 people now staying
here for the benefit of the baths； of which six daily are usually
taken。 I think that in rheumatism； as in some other maladies； the
old…fashioned Japanese doctors pay little attention to diet and
habits； and much to drugs and external applications。 The benefit
of these and other medicinal waters would be much increased if
vigorous friction replaced the dabbing with soft towels。
This is a large yadoya； very full of strangers； and the house…
mistress； a buxom and most prepossessing widow； has a truly
exquisite hotel for bathers higher up the hill。 She has eleven
children； two or three of whom are tall； handsome； and graceful
girls。 One blushed deeply at my evident admiration； but was not
displeased； and took me up the hill to see the temples； baths； and
yadoyas of this very attractive place。 I am much delighted with
her grace and savoir faire。 I asked the widow how long she had
kept the inn； and she proudly answered； 〃Three hundred years；〃 not
an uncommon instance of the heredity of occupations。
My accommodation is uniquea kura； or godown； in a large
conventional garden； in which is a bath…house； which receives a hot
spring at a temperature of 105 degrees； in which I luxuriate。 Last
night the mosquitoes were awful。 If the widow and her handsome
girls had not fanned me perseveringly for an hour； I should not
have been able to write a line。 My new mosquito net succeeds
admirably； and； when I am once within it； I rather enjoy the
disappointment of the hundreds of drumming blood…thirsty wretches
outside。
The widow tells me that house…masters pay 2 yen once for all for
the sign； and an annual tax of 2 yen on a first…class yadoya； 1 yen
for a second； and 50 cents for a third； with 5 yen for the license
to sell sake。
These 〃godowns〃 （from the Malay word gadong）； or fire…proof store…
houses； are one of the most marked features of Japanese towns； both
because they are white where all else is grey； and because they are
solid where all else is perishable。
I am lodged in the lower part； but the iron doors are open； and in
their place at night is a paper screen。 A few things are kept in
my room。 Two handsome shrines from which the unemotional faces of
two Buddhas looked out all night； a fine figure of the goddess
Kwan…non； and a venerable one of the god of longevity； suggested
curious dreams。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XIX
ProsperityConvict LabourA New BridgeYamagataIntoxicating
ForgeriesThe Government BuildingsBad MannersSnow MountainsA
Wretched Town。
KANAYAMA； July 16。
Three days of travelling on the same excellent road have brought me
nearly 60 miles。 Yamagata ken impresses me as being singularly
prosperous； progressive； and go…ahead； the plain of Yamagata； which
I entered soon after leaving Kaminoyama； is populous and highly
cultivated； and the broad road； with its enormous traffic； looks
wealthy and civilised。 It is being improved by convicts in dull
red kimonos printed with Chinese characters； who correspond with
our ticket…of…leave men； as they are working for wages in the
employment of contractors and farmers； and are under no other
restriction than that of always wearing the prison dress。
At the Sakamoki river I was delight