annually； and certainly is very efficient in preserving good order。
The pay of ordinary constables ranges from 6 to 10 yen a month。 An
enormous quantity of superfluous writing is done by all officialdom
in Japan； and one usually sees policemen writing。 What comes of it
I don't know。 They are mostly intelligent and gentlemanly…looking
young men； and foreigners in the interior are really much indebted
to them。 If I am at any time in difficulties I apply to them； and；
though they are disposed to be somewhat de haut en bas； they are
sure to help one； except about routes； of which they always profess
ignorance。
On the whole； I like Kubota better than any other Japanese town；
perhaps because it is so completely Japanese and has no air of
having seen better days。 I no longer care to meet Europeans
indeed I should go far out of my way to avoid them。 I have become
quite used to Japanese life； and think that I learn more about it
in travelling in this solitary way than I should otherwise。 I。 L。
B。
LETTER XXIII
〃A Plague of Immoderate Rain〃A Confidential ServantIto's Diary…
…Ito's ExcellencesIto's FaultsProphecy of the Future of Japan
Curious QueriesSuperfine EnglishEconomical TravellingThe
Japanese Pack…horse again。
KUBOTA； July 24。
I am here still； not altogether because the town is fascinating；
but because the rain is so ceaseless as to be truly 〃a plague of
immoderate rain and waters。〃 Travellers keep coming in with
stories of the impassability of the roads and the carrying away of
bridges。 Ito amuses me very much by his remarks。 He thinks that
my visit to the school and hospital must have raised Japan in my
estimation； and he is talking rather big。 He asked me if I noticed
that all the students kept their mouths shut like educated men and
residents of Tokiyo； and that all country people keep theirs open。
I have said little about him for some time； but I daily feel more
dependent on him； not only for all information； but actually for
getting on。 At night he has my watch； passport； and half my money；
and I often wonder what would become of me if he absconded before
morning。 He is not a good boy。 He has no moral sense； according
to our notions； he dislikes foreigners； his manner is often very
disagreeable； and yet I doubt whether I could have obtained a more
valuable servant and interpreter。 When we left Tokiyo he spoke
fairly good English； but by practice and industrious study he now
speaks better than any official interpreter that I have seen； and
his vocabulary is daily increasing。 He never uses a word
inaccurately when he has once got hold of its meaning； and his
memory never fails。 He keeps a diary both in English and Japanese；
and it shows much painstaking observation。 He reads it to me
sometimes； and it is interesting to hear what a young man who has
travelled as much as he has regards as novel in this northern
region。 He has made a hotel book and a transport book； in which
all the bills and receipts are written； and he daily transliterates
the names of all places into English letters； and puts down the
distances and the sums paid for transport and hotels on each bill。
He inquires the number of houses in each place from the police or
Transport Agent； and the special trade of each town； and notes them
down for me。 He takes great pains to be accurate； and occasionally
remarks about some piece of information that he is not quite
certain about； 〃If it's not true； it's not worth having。〃 He is
never late； never dawdles； never goes out in the evening except on
errands for me； never touches sake； is never disobedient； never
requires to be told the same thing twice； is always within hearing；
has a good deal of tact as to what he repeats； and all with an
undisguised view to his own interest。 He sends most of his wages
to his mother； who is a widow〃It's the custom of the country〃
and seems to spend the remainder on sweetmeats； tobacco； and the
luxury of frequent shampooing。
That he would tell a lie if it served his purpose； and would
〃squeeze〃 up to the limits of extortion； if he could do it
unobserved； I have not the slightest doubt。 He seems to have but
little heart； or any idea of any but vicious pleasures。 He has no
religion of any kind； he has been too much with foreigners for
that。 His frankness is something startling。 He has no idea of
reticence on any subject； but probably I learn more about things as
they really are from this very defect。 In virtue in man or woman；
except in that of his former master； he has little； if any belief。
He thinks that Japan is right in availing herself of the
discoveries made by foreigners； that they have as much to learn
from her； and that she will outstrip them in the race； because she
takes all that is worth having； and rejects the incubus of
Christianity。 Patriotism is； I think； his strongest feeling； and I
never met with such a boastful display of it； except in a Scotchman
or an American。 He despises the uneducated； as he can read and
write both the syllabaries。 For foreign rank or position he has
not an atom of reverence or value； but a great deal of both for
Japanese officialdom。 He despises the intellects of women； but
flirts in a town…bred fashion with the simple tea…house girls。
He is anxious to speak the very best English； and to say that a
word is slangy or common interdicts its use。 Sometimes； when the
weather is fine and things go smoothly； he is in an excellent and
communicative humour； and talks a good deal as we travel。 A few
days ago I remarked； 〃What a beautiful day this is！〃 and soon
after； note…book in hand； he said； 〃You say 'a beautiful day。' Is
that better English than 'a devilish fine day；' which most
foreigners say？〃 I replied that it was 〃common；〃 and 〃beautiful〃
has been brought out frequently since。 Again； 〃When you ask a
question you never say； 'What the d…l is it？' as other foreigners
do。 Is it proper for men to say it and not for women？〃 I told him
it was proper for neither； it was a very 〃common〃 word； and I saw
that he erased it from his note…book。 At first he always used
fellows for men； as； 〃Will you have one or two FELLOWS for your
kuruma？〃 〃FELLOWS and women。〃 At last he called the Chief
Physician of the hospital here a FELLOW； on which I told him that
it was slightly slangy； and at least 〃colloquial；〃 and for two days
he has scrupulously spoken of man and men。 To…day he brought a boy
with very sore eyes to see me； on which I exclaimed； 〃Poor little
fellow！〃 and this evening he said； 〃You called that boy a fellow； I
thought it was a bad word！〃 The habits of many of the Yokohama
foreigners have helped to obliterate any distinctions between right
and wrong； if he ever made any。 If he wishes to tell me that he
has seen a very tipsy man； he always says he has seen 〃a fellow as
drunk as an Englishman。〃 At Nikko I asked him how many legal wives
a man could have in Japan； and he replied； 〃Only one lawful one；
but as many others （mekake） as he can support； just as Englishmen
have。〃 He never forgets a correction。 Till I told him it was
slangy he always spoke of inebriated people as 〃tight；〃 and when I
gave him the words 〃tipsy；〃 〃drunk；〃 〃intoxicated；〃 he asked me
which one would use in writing good English； and since then he has
always spoken of people as 〃intoxicated。〃
He naturally likes large towns； and tries to deter me from taking
the 〃unbeaten tracks；〃 which I preferbut when he finds me
immovable； always concludes his arguments with the same formula；
〃Well； of course you can do as you like； it's all the same to me。〃
I do not think he cheats me to any extent。 Board； lodging； and
travelling expenses for us both are about 6s。 6d。 a day； and about
2s。 6d。 when we are stationary； and this includes all gratuities
and extras。 True； the board and lodging consist of tea； rice； and
eggs； a copper basin of water； an andon and an empty room； for；
though there are plenty of chickens in all the villages； the people
won't be bribed to sell them for killing； though they would gladly
part with them if they were to be kept to lay eggs。 Ito amuses me
nearly every night with stories of his unsuccessful attempts to
provide me with animal food。
The travelling is the nearest approach to 〃a ride on a rail〃 that I
have ever made。 I have now ridden； or rather sat； upon seventy…six
horses； all horrible。 They all stumble。 The loins of some are
higher than their shoulders； so that one slips forwards； and the
back…bones of all are ridgy。 Their hind feet grow into points
which turn up； and their hind legs all turn outwards； like those of
a cat； from carrying heavy burdens at an early age。 The same thing
gives them a roll in their gait； which is increased by their
awkward shoes。 In summer they feed chiefly on leaves； supplemented
with mashes of bruised beans； and instead of straw they sleep on
beds of leaves。 In their stalls their heads are tied 〃where their
tails should be；〃 and their fodder is placed not in a manger； but
in a swinging bucket。 Those used in this part of Japan are worth
from 15 to 30 yen。 I have not seen any overloading or ill…
treatment； they are neither kicked； nor