《unbeaten tracks in japan》

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unbeaten tracks in japan- 第37部分


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from 15 to 30 yen。  I have not seen any overloading or ill…
treatment; they are neither kicked; nor beaten; nor threatened in
rough tones; and when they die they are decently buried; and have
stones placed over their graves。  It might be well if the end of a
worn…out horse were somewhat accelerated; but this is mainly a
Buddhist region; and the aversion to taking animal life is very
strong。  I。 L。 B。



LETTER XXIV



The Symbolism of SeaweedAfternoon VisitorsAn Infant ProdigyA
Feat in CaligraphyChild WorshipA Borrowed DressA Trousseau
House FurnitureThe Marriage Ceremony。

KUBOTA; July 25。

The weather at last gives a hope of improvement; and I think I
shall leave to…morrow。  I had written this sentence when Ito came
in to say that the man in the next house would like to see my
stretcher and mosquito net; and had sent me a bag of cakes with the
usual bit of seaweed attached; to show that it was a present。  The
Japanese believe themselves to be descended from a race of
fishermen; they are proud of it; and Yebis; the god of fishermen;
is one of the most popular of the household divinities。  The piece
of seaweed sent with a present to any ordinary person; and the
piece of dried fish…skin which accompanies a present to the Mikado;
record the origin of the race; and at the same time typify the
dignity of simple industry。

Of course I consented to receive the visitor; and with the mercury
at 84 degrees; five men; two boys; and five women entered my small;
low room; and after bowing to the earth three times; sat down on
the floor。  They had evidently come to spend the afternoon。  Trays
of tea and sweetmeats were handed round; and a labako…bon was
brought in; and they all smoked; as I had told Ito that all usual
courtesies were to be punctiliously performed。  They expressed
their gratification at seeing so 〃honourable〃 a traveller。  I
expressed mine at seeing so much of their 〃honourable〃 country。
Then we all bowed profoundly。  Then I laid Brunton's map on the
floor and showed them my route; showed them the Asiatic Society's
Transactions; and how we read from left to right; instead of from
top to bottom; showed them my knitting; which amazed them; and my
Berlin work; and then had nothing left。  Then they began to
entertain me; and I found that the real object of their visit was
to exhibit an 〃infant prodigy;〃 a boy of four; with a head shaven
all but a tuft on the top; a face of preternatural thoughtfulness
and gravity; and the self…possessed and dignified demeanour of an
elderly man。  He was dressed in scarlet silk hakama; and a dark;
striped; blue silk kimono; and fanned himself gracefully; looking
at everything as intelligently and courteously as the others。  To
talk child's talk to him; or show him toys; or try to amuse him;
would have been an insult。  The monster has taught himself to read
and write; and has composed poetry。  His father says that he never
plays; and understands everything just like a grown person。  The
intention was that I should ask him to write; and I did so。

It was a solemn performance。  A red blanket was laid in the middle
of the floor; with a lacquer writing…box upon it。  The creature
rubbed the ink with water on the inkstone; unrolled four rolls of
paper; five feet long; and inscribed them with Chinese characters;
nine inches long; of the most complicated kind; with firm and
graceful curves of his brush; and with the ease and certainty of
Giotto in turning his O。  He sealed them with his seal in
vermilion; bowed three times; and the performance was ended。
People get him to write kakemonos and signboards for them; and he
had earned 10 yen; or about 2 pounds; that day。  His father is
going to travel to Kiyoto with him; to see if any one under
fourteen can write as well。  I never saw such an exaggerated
instance of child worship。  Father; mother; friends; and servants;
treated him as if he were a prince。

The house…master; who is a most polite man; procured me an
invitation to the marriage of his niece; and I have just returned
from it。  He has three 〃wives〃 himself。  One keeps a yadoya in
Kiyoto; another in Morioka; and the third and youngest is with him
here。  From her limitless stores of apparel she chose what she
considered a suitable dress for mean under…dress of sage green
silk crepe; a kimono of soft; green; striped silk of a darker
shade; with a fold of white crepe; spangled with gold at the neck;
and a girdle of sage green corded silk; with the family badge here
and there upon it in gold。  I went with the house…master; Ito; to
his disgust; not being invited; and his absence was like the loss
of one of my senses; as I could not get any explanations till
afterwards。

The ceremony did not correspond with the rules laid down for
marriages in the books of etiquette that I have seen; but this is
accounted for by the fact that they were for persons of the samurai
class; while this bride and bridegroom; though the children of
well…to…do merchants; belong to the heimin。

In this case the trousseau and furniture were conveyed to the
bridegroom's house in the early morning; and I was allowed to go to
see them。  There were several girdles of silk embroidered with
gold; several pieces of brocaded silk for kimonos; several pieces
of silk crepe; a large number of made…up garments; a piece of white
silk; six barrels of wine or sake; and seven sorts of condiments。
Jewellery is not worn by women in Japan。

The furniture consisted of two wooden pillows; finely lacquered;
one of them containing a drawer for ornamental hairpins; some
cotton futons; two very handsome silk ones; a few silk cushions; a
lacquer workbox; a spinning…wheel; a lacquer rice bucket and ladle;
two ornamental iron kettles; various kitchen utensils; three bronze
hibachi; two tabako…bons; some lacquer trays; and zens; china
kettles; teapots; and cups; some lacquer rice bowls; two copper
basins; a few towels; some bamboo switches; and an inlaid lacquer
etagere。  As the things are all very handsome the parents must be
well off。  The sake is sent in accordance with rigid etiquette。

The bridegroom is twenty…two; the bride seventeen; and very comely;
so far as I could see through the paint with which she was
profusely disfigured。  Towards evening she was carried in a
norimon; accompanied by her parents and friends; to the
bridegroom's house; each member of the procession carrying a
Chinese lantern。  When the house…master and I arrived the wedding
party was assembled in a large room; the parents and friends of the
bridegroom being seated on one side; and those of the bride on the
other。  Two young girls; very beautifully dressed; brought in the
bride; a very pleasing…looking creature dressed entirely in white
silk; with a veil of white silk covering her from head to foot。
The bridegroom; who was already seated in the middle of the room
near its upper part; did not rise to receive her; and kept his eyes
fixed on the ground; and she sat opposite to him; but never looked
up。  A low table was placed in front; on which there was a two…
spouted kettle full of sake; some sake bottles; and some cups; and
on another there were some small figures representing a fir…tree; a
plum…tree in blossom; and a stork standing on a tortoise; the last
representing length of days; and the former the beauty of women and
the strength of men。  Shortly a zen; loaded with eatables; was
placed before each person; and the feast began; accompanied by the
noises which signify gastronomic gratification。

After this; which was only a preliminary; the two girls who brought
in the bride handed round a tray with three cups containing sake;
which each person was expected to drain till he came to the god of
luck at the bottom。

The bride and bridegroom then retired; but shortly reappeared in
other dresses of ceremony; but the bride still wore her white silk
veil; which one day will be her shroud。  An old gold lacquer tray
was produced; with three sake cups; which were filled by the two
bridesmaids; and placed before the parents…in…law and the bride。
The father…in…law drank three cups; and handed the cup to the
bride; who; after drinking two cups; received from her father…in…
law a present in a box; drank the third cup; and then returned the
cup to the father…in…law; who again drank three cups。  Rice and
fish were next brought in; after which the bridegroom's mother took
the second cup; and filled and emptied it three times; after which
she passed it to the bride; who drank two cups; received a present
from her mother…in…law in a lacquer box; drank a third cup; and
gave the cup to the elder lady; who again drank three cups。  Soup
was then served; and then the bride drank once from the third cup;
and handed it to her husband's father; who drank three more cups;
the bride took it again; and drank two; and lastly the mother…in…
law drank three more cups。  Now; if you possess the clear…
sightedness which I laboured to preserve; you will perceive that
each of the three had inbibed nine cups of some generous liquor!
{16}

After this the two bridesmaids raised the two…spouted kettle and
presented it to the lips of the married pair; who drank from it
a
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