at Shirasawa； it has been falling in such sheets as I have only
seen for a few minutes at a time on the equator。 I have been here
storm…staid for two days； with damp bed； damp clothes； damp
everything； and boots； bag； books； are all green with mildew。 And
still the rain falls； and roads； bridges； rice…fields； trees； and
hillsides are being swept in a common ruin towards the Tsugaru
Strait； so tantalisingly near； and the simple people are calling on
the forgotten gods of the rivers and the hills； on the sun and
moon； and all the host of heaven； to save them from this 〃plague of
immoderate rain and waters。〃 For myself； to be able to lie down
all day is something； and as 〃the mind； when in a healthy state；
reposes as quietly before an insurmountable difficulty as before an
ascertained truth；〃 so； as I cannot get on； I have ceased to chafe；
and am rather inclined to magnify the advantages of the detention；
a necessary process； as you would think if you saw my surroundings！
The day before yesterday； in spite of severe pain； was one of the
most interesting of my journey。 As I learned something of the
force of fire in Hawaii； I am learning not a little of the force of
water in Japan。 We left Shirasawa at noon； as it looked likely to
clear； taking two horses and three men。 It is beautiful scenerya
wild valley； upon which a number of lateral ridges descend；
rendered strikingly picturesque by the dark pyramidal cryptomeria；
which are truly the glory of Japan。 Five of the fords were deep
and rapid； and the entrance on them difficult； as the sloping
descents were all carried away； leaving steep banks； which had to
be levelled by the mattocks of the mago。 Then the fords themselves
were gone； there were shallows where there had been depths； and
depths where there had been shallows； new channels were carved； and
great beds of shingle had been thrown up。 Much wreckage lay about。
The road and its small bridges were all gone； trees torn up by the
roots or snapped short off by being struck by heavy logs were
heaped together like barricades； leaves and even bark being in many
cases stripped completely off； great logs floated down the river in
such numbers and with such force that we had to wait half an hour
in one place to secure a safe crossing； hollows were filled with
liquid mud； boulders of great size were piled into embankments；
causing perilous alterations in the course of the river； a fertile
valley had been utterly destroyed； and the men said they could
hardly find their way。
At the end of five miles it became impassable for horses； and； with
two of the mago carrying the baggage； we set off； wading through
water and climbing along the side of a hill； up to our knees in
soft wet soil。 The hillside and the road were both gone； and there
were heavy landslips along the whole valley。 Happily there was not
much of this exhausting work； for； just as higher and darker
ranges； densely wooded with cryptomeria； began to close us in； we
emerged upon a fine new road； broad enough for a carriage； which；
after crossing two ravines on fine bridges； plunges into the depths
of a magnificent forest； and then by a long series of fine zigzags
of easy gradients ascends the pass of Yadate； on the top of which；
in a deep sandstone cutting； is a handsome obelisk marking the
boundary between Akita and Aomori ken。 This is a marvellous road
for Japan； it is so well graded and built up； and logs for
travellers' rests are placed at convenient distances。 Some very
heavy work in grading and blasting has been done upon it； but there
are only four miles of it； with wretched bridle tracks at each end。
I left the others behind； and strolled on alone over the top of the
pass and down the other side； where the road is blasted out of rock
of a vivid pink and green colour； looking brilliant under the
trickle of water。 I admire this pass more than anything I have
seen in Japan； I even long to see it again； but under a bright blue
sky。 It reminds me much of the finest part of the Brunig Pass； and
something of some of the passes in the Rocky Mountains； but the
trees are far finer than in either。 It was lonely； stately； dark；
solemn； its huge cryptomeria； straight as masts； sent their tall
spires far aloft in search of light； the ferns； which love damp and
shady places； were the only undergrowth； the trees flung their
balsamy； aromatic scent liberally upon the air； and； in the
unlighted depths of many a ravine and hollow； clear bright torrents
leapt and tumbled； drowning with their thundering bass the musical
treble of the lighter streams。 Not a traveller disturbed the
solitude with his sandalled footfall； there was neither song of
bird nor hum of insect。
In the midst of this sublime scenery； and at the very top of the
pass； the rain； which had been light but steady during the whole
day； began to come down in streams and then in sheets。 I have been
so rained upon for weeks that at first I took little notice of it；
but very soon changes occurred before my eyes which concentrated my
attention upon it。 The rush of waters was heard everywhere； trees
of great size slid down； breaking others in their fall； rocks were
rent and carried away trees in their descent； the waters rose
before our eyes； with a boom and roar as of an earthquake a
hillside burst； and half the hill； with a noble forest of
cryptomeria； was projected outwards； and the trees； with the land
on which they grew； went down heads foremost； diverting a river
from its course； and where the forest…covered hillside had been
there was a great scar； out of which a torrent burst at high
pressure； which in half an hour carved for itself a deep ravine；
and carried into the valley below an avalanche of stones and sand。
Another hillside descended less abruptly； and its noble groves
found themselves at the bottom in a perpendicular position； and
will doubtless survive their transplantation。 Actually； before my
eyes； this fine new road was torn away by hastily improvised
torrents； or blocked by landslips in several places； and a little
lower； in one moment； a hundred yards of it disappeared； and with
them a fine bridge； which was deposited aslant across the torrent
lower down。
On the descent； when things began to look very bad； and the
mountain…sides had become cascades bringing trees； logs； and rocks
down with them； we were fortunate enough to meet with two pack…
horses whose leaders were ignorant of the impassability of the road
to Odate； and they and my coolies exchanged loads。 These were
strong horses； and the mago were skilful and courageous。 They said
if we hurried we could just get to the hamlet they had left； they
thought； but while they spoke the road and the bridge below were
carried away。 They insisted on lashing me to the pack…saddle。 The
great stream； whose beauty I had formerly admired； was now a thing
of dread； and had to be forded four times without fords。 It
crashed and thundered； drowning the feeble sound of human voices；
the torrents from the heavens hissed through the forest； trees and
logs came crashing down the hillsides； a thousand cascades added to
the din； and in the bewilderment produced by such an unusual
concatenation of sights and sounds we stumbled through the river；
the men up to their shoulders； the horses up to their backs。 Again
and again we crossed。 The banks being carried away； it was very
hard to get either into or out of the water； the horses had to
scramble or jump up places as high as their shoulders； all slippery
and crumbling； and twice the men cut steps for them with axes。 The
rush of the torrent at the last crossing taxed the strength of both
men and horses； and； as I was helpless from being tied on； I
confess that I shut my eyes！ After getting through； we came upon
the lands belonging to this villagerice…fields with the dykes
burst； and all the beautiful ridge and furrow cultivation of the
other crops carried away。 The waters were rising fast； the men
said we must hurry； they unbound me； so that I might ride more
comfortably； spoke to the horses； and went on at a run。 My horse；
which had nearly worn out his shoes in the fords； stumbled at every
step； the mago gave me a noose of rope to clutch； the rain fell in
such torrents that I speculated on the chance of being washed off
my saddle； when suddenly I saw a shower of sparks； I felt
unutterable things； I was choked； bruised； stifled； and presently
found myself being hauled out of a ditch by three men； and realised
that the horse had tumbled down in going down a steepish hill； and
that I had gone over his head。 To climb again on the soaked futon
was the work of a moment； and； with men running and horses
stumbling and splashing； we crossed the Hirakawa by one fine
bridge； and half a mile farther re…crossed it on another； wishing
as we did so that all Japanese bridges were as substantial； for
they were both 100 feet long； and had central piers。
We entered Ikarigaseki from the last bridge； a village of 800
people； on a narrow ledge between an abrupt hill and the Hirakawa；
a most forlorn and tumble…down place； given up to felling timber
and making shingles； and timber in all its