a most forlorn and tumble…down place； given up to felling timber
and making shingles； and timber in all its formslogs； planks；
faggots； and shinglesis heaped and stalked about。 It looks more
like a lumberer's encampment than a permanent village； but it is
beautifully situated； and unlike any of the innumerable villages
that I have ever seen。
The street is long and narrow； with streams in stone channels on
either side； but these had overflowed； and men； women； and children
were constructing square dams to keep the water； which had already
reached the doma； from rising over the tatami。 Hardly any house
has paper windows； and in the few which have； they are so black
with smoke as to look worse than none。 The roofs are nearly flat；
and are covered with shingles held on by laths and weighted with
large stones。 Nearly all the houses look like temporary sheds； and
most are as black inside as a Barra hut。 The walls of many are
nothing but rough boards tied to the uprights by straw ropes。
In the drowning torrent； sitting in puddles of water； and drenched
to the skin hours before； we reached this very primitive yadoya；
the lower part of which is occupied by the daidokoro； a party of
storm…bound students； horses； fowls； and dogs。 My room is a
wretched loft； reached by a ladder； with such a quagmire at its
foot that I have to descend into it in Wellington boots。 It was
dismally grotesque at first。 The torrent on the unceiled roof
prevented Ito from hearing what I said； the bed was soaked； and the
water； having got into my box； had dissolved the remains of the
condensed milk； and had reduced clothes； books； and paper into a
condition of universal stickiness。 My kimono was less wet than
anything else； and； borrowing a sheet of oiled paper； I lay down in
it； till roused up in half an hour by Ito shrieking above the din
on the roof that the people thought that the bridge by which we had
just entered would give way； and； running to the river bank； we
joined a large crowd； far too intensely occupied by the coming
disaster to take any notice of the first foreign lady they had ever
seen。
The Hirakawa； which an hour before was merely a clear； rapid
mountain stream； about four feet deep； was then ten feet deep； they
said； and tearing along； thick and muddy； and with a fearful roar；
〃And each wave was crested with tawny foam；
Like the mane of a chestnut steed。〃
Immense logs of hewn timber； trees； roots； branches； and faggots；
were coming down in numbers。 The abutment on this side was much
undermined； but； except that the central pier trembled whenever a
log struck it； the bridge itself stood firmso firm； indeed； that
two men； anxious to save some property on the other side； crossed
it after I arrived。 Then logs of planed timber of large size； and
joints； and much wreckage； came downfully forty fine timbers；
thirty feet long； for the fine bridge above had given way。 Most of
the harvest of logs cut on the Yadate Pass must have been lost； for
over 300 were carried down in the short time in which I watched the
river。 This is a very heavy loss to this village； which lives by
the timber trade。 Efforts were made at a bank higher up to catch
them as they drifted by； but they only saved about one in twenty。
It was most exciting to see the grand way in which these timbers
came down； and the moment in which they were to strike or not to
strike the pier was one of intense suspense。 After an hour of this
two superb logs； fully thirty feet long； came down close together；
and； striking the central pier nearly simultaneously； it shuddered
horribly； the great bridge parted in the middle； gave an awful
groan like a living thing； plunged into the torrent； and re…
appeared in the foam below only as disjointed timbers hurrying to
the sea。 Not a vestige remained。 The bridge below was carried
away in the morning； so； till the river becomes fordable； this
little place is completely isolated。 On thirty miles of road； out
of nineteen bridges only two remain； and the road itself is almost
wholly carried away！
LETTER XXVIII（Continued）
Scanty ResourcesJapanese ChildrenChildren's GamesA Sagacious
ExampleA Kite CompetitionPersonal Privations。
IKARIGASEKI。
I have well…nigh exhausted the resources of this place。 They are
to go out three times a day to see how much the river has fallen；
to talk with the house…master and Kocho； to watch the children's
games and the making of shingles； to buy toys and sweetmeats and
give them away； to apply zinc lotion to a number of sore eyes three
times daily； under which treatment； during three days； there has
been a wonderful amendment； to watch the cooking； spinning； and
other domestic processes in the daidokoro； to see the horses； which
are also actually in it； making meals of green leaves of trees
instead of hay； to see the lepers； who are here for some waters
which are supposed to arrest； if not to cure； their terrible
malady； to lie on my stretcher and sew； and read the papers of the
Asiatic Society； and to go over all possible routes to Aomori。 The
people have become very friendly in consequence of the eye lotion；
and bring many diseases for my inspection； most of which would
never have arisen had cleanliness of clothing and person been
attended to。 The absence of soap； the infrequency with which
clothing is washed； and the absence of linen next the skin； cause
various cutaneous diseases； which are aggravated by the bites and
stings of insects。 Scald…head affects nearly half the children
here。
I am very fond of Japanese children。 I have never yet heard a baby
cry； and I have never seen a child troublesome or disobedient。
Filial piety is the leading virtue in Japan； and unquestioning
obedience is the habit of centuries。 The arts and threats by which
English mothers cajole or frighten children into unwilling
obedience appear unknown。 I admire the way in which children are
taught to be independent in their amusements。 Part of the home
education is the learning of the rules of the different games；
which are absolute； and when there is a doubt； instead of a
quarrelsome suspension of the game； the fiat of a senior child
decides the matter。 They play by themselves； and don't bother
adults at every turn。 I usually carry sweeties with me； and give
them to the children； but not one has ever received them without
first obtaining permission from the father or mother。 When that is
gained they smile and bow profoundly； and hand the sweeties to
those present before eating any themselves。 They are gentle
creatures； but too formal and precocious。
They have no special dress。 This is so queer that I cannot repeat
it too often。 At three they put on the kimono and girdle； which
are as inconvenient to them as to their parents； and childish play
in this garb is grotesque。 I have； however； never seen what we
call child's playthat general abandonment to miscellaneous
impulses； which consists in struggling； slapping； rolling； jumping；
kicking； shouting； laughing； and quarrelling！ Two fine boys are
very clever in harnessing paper carts to the backs of beetles with
gummed traces； so that eight of them draw a load of rice up an
inclined plane。 You can imagine what the fate of such a load and
team would be at home among a number of snatching hands。 Here a
number of infants watch the performance with motionless interest；
and never need the adjuration； 〃Don't touch。〃 In most of the
houses there are bamboo cages for 〃the shrill…voiced Katydid；〃 and
the children amuse themselves with feeding these vociferous
grasshoppers。 The channels of swift water in the street turn a
number of toy water…wheels； which set in motion most ingenious
mechanical toys； of which a model of the automatic rice…husker is
the commonest； and the boys spend much time in devising and
watching these； which are really very fascinating。 It is the
holidays； but 〃holiday tasks〃 are given； and in the evenings you
hear the hum of lessons all along the street for about an hour。
The school examination is at the re…opening of the school after the
holidays； instead of at the end of the sessionan arrangement
which shows an honest desire to discern the permanent gain made by
the scholars。
This afternoon has been fine and windy； and the boys have been
flying kites； made of tough paper on a bamboo frame； all of a
rectangular shape； some of them five feet square； and nearly all
decorated with huge faces of historical heroes。 Some of them have
a humming arrangement made of whale…bone。 There was a very
interesting contest between two great kites； and it brought out the
whole population。 The string of each kite； for 30 feet or more
below the frame； was covered with pounded glass； made to adhere
very closely by means of tenacious glue； and for two hours the
kite…fighters tried to get their kites into a proper position for
sawing the adversary's string in two。 At last one was successful；
and the severed kite became his property； upon which victor and
vanquished exchanged three low bows。 Silently as the people
watched and received the destruction of their bridge； so silently
they watched this exciting contest。 Th