the interior except that it is covered with forest matted together
by lianas； and with an undergrowth of scrub bamboo impenetrable
except to the axe； varied by swamps equally impassable； which give
rise to hundreds of rivers well stocked with fish。 The glare of
volcanoes is seen in different parts of the island。 The forests
are the hunting…grounds of the Ainos； who are complete savages in
everything but their disposition； which is said to be so gentle and
harmless that I may go among them with perfect safety。
Kindly interest has been excited by the first foray made by a lady
into the country of the aborigines； and Mr。 Eusden； the Consul； has
worked upon the powers that be with such good effect that the
Governor has granted me a shomon； a sort of official letter or
certificate； giving me a right to obtain horses and coolies
everywhere at the Government rate of 6 sen a ri； with a prior claim
to accommodation at the houses kept up for officials on their
circuits； and to help and assistance from officials generally； and
the Governor has further telegraphed to the other side of Volcano
Bay desiring the authorities to give me the use of the Government
kuruma as long as I need it； and to detain the steamer to suit my
convenience！ With this document； which enables me to dispense with
my passport； I shall find travelling very easy； and I am very
grateful to the Consul for procuring it for me。
Here； where rice and tea have to be imported； there is a uniform
charge at the yadoyas of 30 sen a day； which includes three meals；
whether you eat them or not。 Horses are abundant； but are small；
and are not up to heavy weights。 They are entirely unshod； and；
though their hoofs are very shallow and grow into turned…up points
and other singular shapes； they go over rough ground with facility
at a scrambling run of over four miles an hour following a leader
called a 〃front horse。〃 If you don't get a 〃front horse〃 and try
to ride in front； you find that your horse will not stir till he
has another before him； and then you are perfectly helpless； as he
follows the movements of his leader without any reference to your
wishes。 There are no mago； a man rides the 〃front horse〃 and goes
at whatever pace you please； or； if you get a 〃front horse；〃 you
may go without any one。 Horses are cheap and abundant。 They drive
a number of them down from the hills every morning into corrals in
the villages； and keep them there till they are wanted。 Because
they are so cheap they are very badly used。 I have not seen one
yet without a sore back； produced by the harsh pack…saddle rubbing
up and down the spine； as the loaded animals are driven at a run。
They are mostly very poor…looking。
As there was some difficulty about getting a horse for me the
Consul sent one of the Kaitakushi saddle…horses； a handsome； lazy
animal； which I rarely succeeded in stimulating into a heavy
gallop。 Leaving Ito to follow with the baggage； I enjoyed my
solitary ride and the possibility of choosing my own pace very
much； though the choice was only between a slow walk and the
lumbering gallop aforesaid。
I met strings of horses loaded with deer hides； and overtook other
strings loaded with sake and manufactured goods and in each case
had a fight with my sociably inclined animal。 In two villages I
was interested to see that the small shops contained lucifer
matches； cotton umbrellas； boots； brushes； clocks； slates； and
pencils； engravings in frames； kerosene lamps； ｛18｝ and red and
green blankets； all but the last； which are unmistakable British
〃shoddy；〃 being Japanese imitations of foreign manufactured goods；
more or less cleverly executed。 The road goes up hill for fifteen
miles； and； after passing Nanai； a trim Europeanised village in the
midst of fine crops； one of the places at which the Government is
making acclimatisation and other agricultural experiments； it
fairly enters the mountains； and from the top of a steep hill there
is a glorious view of Hakodate Head； looking like an island in the
deep blue sea； and from the top of a higher hill； looking
northward； a magnificent view of the volcano with its bare； pink
summit rising above three lovely lakes densely wooded。 These are
the flushed scaurs and outbreaks of bare rock for which I sighed
amidst the smothering greenery of the main island； and the silver
gleam of the lakes takes away the blindness from the face of
nature。 It was delicious to descend to the water's edge in the
dewy silence amidst balsamic odours； to find not a clattering grey
village with its monotony； but a single； irregularly…built house；
with lovely surroundings。
It is a most displeasing road for most of the way； sides with deep
corrugations； and in the middle a high causeway of earth； whose
height is being added to by hundreds of creels of earth brought on
ponies' backs。 It is supposed that carriages and waggons will use
this causeway； but a shying horse or a bad driver would overturn
them。 As it is at present the road is only passable for pack…
horses； owing to the number of broken bridges。 I passed strings of
horses laden with sake going into the interior。 The people of Yezo
drink freely； and the poor Ainos outrageously。 On the road I
dismounted to rest myself by walking up hill； and； the saddle being
loosely girthed； the gear behind it dragged it round and under the
body of the horse； and it was too heavy for me to lift on his back
again。 When I had led him for some time two Japanese with a string
of pack…horses loaded with deer…hides met me； and not only put the
saddle on again； but held the stirrup while I remounted； and bowed
politely when I went away。 Who could help liking such a courteous
and kindly people？
MORI； VOLCANO BAY； Monday。
Even Ginsainoma was not Paradise after dark； and I was actually
driven to bed early by the number of mosquitoes。 Ito is in an
excellent humour on this tour。 Like me； he likes the freedom of
the Hokkaido。 He is much more polite and agreeable also； and very
proud of the Governor's shomon； with which he swaggers into hotels
and Transport Offices。 I never get on so well as when he arranges
for me。 Saturday was grey and lifeless； and the ride of seven
miles here along a sandy road through monotonous forest and swamp；
with the volcano on one side and low wooded hills on the other； was
wearisome and fatiguing。 I saw five large snakes all in a heap；
and a number more twisting through the grass。 There are no
villages； but several very poor tea…houses； and on the other side
of the road long sheds with troughs hollowed like canoes out of the
trunks of trees； containing horse food。 Here nobody walks； and the
men ride at a quick run； sitting on the tops of their pack…saddles
with their legs crossed above their horses' necks； and wearing
large hats like coal…scuttle bonnets。 The horses are infested with
ticks； hundreds upon one animal sometimes； and occasionally they
become so mad from the irritation that they throw themselves
suddenly on the ground； and roll over load and rider。 I saw this
done twice。 The ticks often transfer themselves to the riders。
Mori is a large； ramshackle village； near the southern point of
Volcano Baya wild； dreary…looking place on a sandy shore； with a
number of joroyas and disreputable characters。 Several of the
yadoyas are not respectable； but I rather like this one； and it has
a very fine view of the volcano； which forms one point of the bay。
Mori has no anchorage； though it has an unfinished pier 345 feet
long。 The steam ferry across the mouth of the bay is here； and
there is a very difficult bridle…track running for nearly 100 miles
round the bay besides； and a road into the interior。 But it is a
forlorn； decayed place。 Last night the inn was very noisy； as some
travellers in the next room to mine hired geishas； who played；
sang； and danced till two in the morning； and the whole party
imbibed sake freely。 In this comparatively northern latitude the
summer is already waning。 The seeds of the blossoms which were in
their glory when I arrived are ripe； and here and there a tinge of
yellow on a hillside； or a scarlet spray of maple； heralds the
glories and the coolness of autumn。
YUBETS。 YEZO。
A loud yell of 〃steamer；〃 coupled with the information that 〃she
could not wait one minute；〃 broke in upon go and everything else；
and in a broiling sun we hurried down to the pier； and with a heap
of Japanese； who filled two scows； were put on board a steamer not
bigger than a large decked steam launch； where the natives were all
packed into a covered hole； and I was conducted with much ceremony
to the forecastle； a place at the bow 5 feet square； full of coils
of rope； shut in； and left to solitude and dignity； and the stare
of eight eyes； which perseveringly glowered through the windows！
The steamer had been kept waiting for me on the other side for two
days； to the infinite disgust of two foreigners； who wished to
return to Hakodate； and to mine。
It was a splendid day； with foam crests on the wonderfully blue
water； and the red ashes of the volcano； which forms the south
point of the bay； glowed in the sunlight。 This wretched stea