indescribable； either by pen or pencil。
There are junks with big eyes on either side of the stem； 〃without
which they could not see their way；〃* and with open bows with two
six…pounders grinning through them。 Along the sides there are ten
guns； and at the lofty； square； quaint； broad； carved stern； two more。
This heavy armament is carried nominally for protection against
pirates； but its chief use is for the production of those stunning
noises which Chinamen delight in on all occasions。 In these helpless
and unwieldy…looking vessels which are sailed with an amount of noise
and apparent confusion which is absolutely shocking to anyone used to
our strict nautical discipline； the rudder projects astern six feet and
more； the masts are single poles； the large sails of fine matting； and
what with their antique shape； rich coloring； lattice work and carving；
they are the most picturesque craft afloat。 Then there are 〃passage
boats〃 from the whole interior network of rivers and canals； each
district having its special rig and build； recognizable at once by the
initiated。 These sail when they can； and when they can't are propelled
by large sweeps； each of which is worked by six men who stand on a
platform outside。 These boats are always heavily laden； crowded with
passengers and 〃armed to the teeth〃 as a protection against river
pirates； and they carry crews of from thirty…five to fifty men。
＇*These eyes are really charms； but the above is the explanation given
to 〃griffins。〃＇
At some distance below Shameen there are moored tiers of large；
two…storied house boats； with entrance doors seven feet high； always
open； and doorways of rich wood carving； through which the interiors
can be seen with their richly decorated altars； innumerable colored
lamps； chairs； and settees of carved ebony with white marble let into
the seats and backs； embroidered silk hangings； gilded mirrors and
cornices； and all the extravagances of Chinese luxury。 Many of them
have gardens on their roofs。 These are called 〃flower boats；〃 and are
of noisy and evil reputation。 Then there are tiers of three…roomed；
comfortable house boats to let to people who make their homes on the
water in summer to avoid the heat。 〃Marriage boats；〃 green and gold；
with much wood carving and flags； and auspicious emblems of all kinds；
river junks； with their large eyes and carved and castellated sterns
lying moored in treble rows； duck boats； with their noisy inmates；
florists' boats； with platforms of growing plants for sale； two…storied
boats or barges； with glass sides； floating hotels； in which evening
entertainments are given with much light and noise； restaurant boats；
much gilded； from which proceeds an incessant beating of gongs； washing
boats； market boats； floating shops； which supply the floating
population with all marketable commodities； country boats of fantastic
form coming down on every wind and tide； and； queerest of all； 〃slipper
boats；〃 looking absurdly like big shoes； which are propelled in and out
among all the heavier craft by standing in the stern。
One of the most marvelous features of Canton is the city of house
boats； floating and stationary； in which about a quarter of a million
people live； and it may with truth be added are born and die。 This
population is quite distinct in race from the land population of
Canton； which looks down upon it as a pariah and alien caste。 These
house boats； some of which have a single bamboo circular roof； others
two roofs of different heights； and which include several thousand of
the marvelous 〃slipper boats；〃 lie in tiers along the river sides； and
packed closely stem and stern along the canals； forming bustling and
picturesque water streets。 Many of the boats moored on the canals are
floating shops； and do a brisk trade； one end of the boat being the
shop； the other the dwelling…house。 As the 〃slipper boats〃 are only
from fifteen to twenty feet long； it may be imagined； as their breadth
is strictly proportionate； that the accommodation for a family is
rather circumscribed； yet such a boat is not only the home of a married
pair and their children； but of the eldest son with his wife and
children； and not unfrequently of grandparents also！ The bamboo roofs
slide in a sort of telescope fashion； and the whole interior space can
be inclosed and divided。 The bow of the boat； whether large or small；
is always the family joss house； and the water is starred at night with
the dull； melancholy glimmer； fainter； though redder than a glow…worm's
light； of thousands of burning joss…sticks； making the air heavy with
the odor of incense。 Unlike the houses of the poor on shore； the house
boats are models of cleanliness； and space is utilized and economized
by adaptations more ingenious than those of a tiny yacht。 These boats；
which form neat rooms with matted seats by day； turn into beds at
night； and the children have separate 〃rooms。〃 The men go on shore
during the day and do laborer's work； but the women seldom land； are
devoted to 〃housewifely〃 duties； and besides are to be seen at all
hours of day and night flying over the water； plying for hire at the
landings； and ferrying goods and passengers； as strong as men； and
clean； comely； and pleasant…looking； one at the stern and one at the
bow； sending the floating home along with skilled and sturdy strokes。
They are splendid boat…women； and not vociferous。 These women don't
bandage their feet。
Their dress is dark brown or blue cotton； and consists of wide trousers
and a short； loose； sleeved upper garment up to the throat。 The feet
are big and bare； the hair is neat and drawn back from the face into a
stiff roll or chignon； and they all wear jade…stone earrings。 You see a
woman cooking or sewing in most housewifely style in one of these
〃slipper boats；〃 but if you hail it； she is plying the heavy oar in one
moment； and as likely as not with a wise…looking baby on her back；
supported by a square piece of scarlet cloth embroidered in gold and
blue silks。 Not one of this river population has yet received
Christianity。 Very little indeed is known about them and their
customs； but it is said that their morals are low； and that when
infanticide was less discouraged than it is now； the river was the
convenient grave of many of their newly…born female children。 I spent
most of one afternoon alone in one of these boats； diving into all
canals and traversing water streets； hanging on to junks and 〃passage
boats；〃 and enjoying the variety of river life to the full。
On another day I was carried eighteen miles through Canton on a chair
by four coolies； Mr。 Smith and his brother walking the whole
distancea great testimony to the invigorating influences of the
winter climate。 As to locomotion； one must either walk or be carried。 A
human being is not a heavy weight for the coolies； but it is
distressing to see that the shoulders of very many of them are
suffering from bony tumors； arising from the pressure of the poles。 We
lunched in the open air upon a stone table under a banyan…tree at the
〃Five…storied Pagoda〃 which forms the north…east corner of the great
wall of Canton； from which we looked down upon the singular vestiges of
the nearly forgotten Tartar conquest； the walled inner city of the
Tartar conquerors； containing the Tartar garrison； the Yamun （official
residence） of the Tartar governor； the houses of the foreign consuls；
and the unmixed Tartar population。 The streets of this foreign kernel
of Canton are narrow and dirty； with mean； low houses with tiled roofs
nearly flat； and small courtyards； more like the houses of Western than
Eastern Asia。 These Tartars do not differ much in physiognomy from the
Chinese。 They are somewhat uglier； their stature is shorter； and the
women always wear three rings in their ears。 I saw more women in a
single street in one day in the Tartar city than I have seen altogether
in the rest of Canton。
The view from that corner of the wall （to my thinking） is beautiful；
the flaming red pagoda with its many roofs； the singularly picturesque
ancient gray wall； all ups and downs； watch…towers； and strongholds；
the Tartar city below； with the 〃flowery pagoda；〃 the mosques； the
bright foliage of the banyan； and the feathery grace of the bamboo；
outside the wall the White…Cloud hills； and nearer ranges burrowed
everywhere for the dead； their red and pink and orange hues harmonized
by a thin blue veil； softening without obscuring； all lying in the
glory of the tropic winter noon…light without heat； color without
glare。 Vanish all memories of grays and pale greens before this
vividness； this wealth of light and color！ Color is at once music and
vitality； and after long deprivation I revel in it。 This wall is a fine
old structure； about twenty feet wide and as many high； with a broad
pavement on which to walk； and a high platform on the outside； with a
battlement pierced for marksmen。 It is hardly ever level for ten yards；
but follows the inequalities of the ground； and has picturesque towers
which occur frequently。 It is everywhere draped with ferns； which do
not help to keep it in repair。 The 〃Five…storied Pagoda〃 which flames
in red at