not help to keep it in repair。 The 〃Five…storied Pagoda〃 which flames
in red at one of its angles； is a striking feature in the view。 As we
sat on stone seats by stone tables in what might be called its shadow；
under the cloudless heaven； with the pure Orientalism of the Tartar
city spread out at our feet； that unimaginable Orientalism which takes
one captive at once； and； like the first sight of a palm or a banana；
satisfies a longing of which one had not previously been conscious； a
mundane disappointment was severely felt。 We had been； as the Americans
say； 〃exercising〃 for five hours in the bracing air； and I had long
been conscious of a craving for solid food which no Orientalism could
satisfy； and our dismay was great not only to find that the cook had
put up lunch for two when there were three hungry persons； but that the
chicken was so underdone that we could not eat it； and as we were not
starving enough to go and feed at a cat and dog or any other Chinese
restaurant； my hosts at least； who had not learned that bananas are
sustenance for men as well as 〃food for gods；〃 were famished。 As we ate
〃clem pie〃 or 〃dined with Duke Humphrey；〃 two water buffaloes； dark
gray ungainly forms； with little more hair than elephants； recurved
horns； and muzzles like deer； watched us closely； until a Tartar drove
them off。 Such beasts； which stand in the water and plaster themselves
with mud like elephants； are the cows and draught oxen of China。 Two
nice Chinese boys sat by us； and Mr。 Smith practiced Chinese upon them；
till a man came out angrily and took them away； using many words； of
which we only understood 〃Barbarian Devils。〃 The Cantonese are not
rude； however。 A foreign lady can walk alone without being actually
molested； though as a rule Chinese women are not seen in the streets。 I
have certainly seen half a million men； and not more than ninety women；
and those only of the poorest class。 The middle and upper class women
never go out except in closed palanquins with screened windows； and are
nearly as much secluded as the women of India。
Passing through the Tartar city and some streets of aristocratic
dullness； inhabited by wealthy merchants； we spent some hours in the
mercantile quarter； which is practically one vast market or bazaar；
thronged with masculine humanity from morning till night。 Eight feet is
the width of the widest street but one； and between the passers…by； the
loungers； the people standing at stalls eating； or drinking tea； and
the itinerant venders of goods； it is one long push。 Then； as you are
elbowing your feeble self among the big men； who are made truly
monstrous by their many wadded garments of silk and brocade； you are
terrified by a loud yell； and being ignominiously hustled out of the
way； you become aware that the crowd has yielded place to a procession；
consisting of several men in red； followed by a handsome closed
palanquin； borne by four； six； or eight bearers in red liveries； in
which reclines a stout； magnificently dressed mandarin； utterly
oblivious of his inferiors； the representative of high caste feeling
all the world over； either reading or absorbed； never taking any notice
of the crowds and glitter which I find so fascinating。 More men in red；
and then the crowd closes up again； to be again divided by a plebeian
chair like mine； or by pariahs running with a coffin fifteen feet long；
shaped like the trunk of a tree； or by coolies carrying burdens slung
on bamboo poles； uttering deafening cries； or by a marriage procession
with songs and music； or by a funeral procession with weeping and
wailing； succeeding each other incessantly。 All the people in the
streets are shouting at the top of their voices； the chair and baggage
coolies are yelling； and to complete the bewildering din the beggars at
every corner are demanding charity by striking two gongs together。
Color riots in these narrow streets； with their high houses with
projecting upper stories； much carved and gilded； their deeply
projecting roofs or eaves tiled with shells cut into panes； which let
the light softly through； while a sky of deep bright blue fills up the
narrow slit between。 Then in the shadow below； which is fitfully
lighted by the sunbeams； hanging from all the second stories at every
possible interval of height； each house having at least two； are the
richly painted boards of which I wrote before； from six to ten feet
long； some black； some heavily gilded； a few orange； but the majority
red and perfectly plain； except for the characters several inches long
down the middle of each； gold on the red and black； and black on the
gold and orangethese； with banners； festoons； and the bright blue
draperies which for a hundred days indicate mourning in a house； form
together a spectacle of street picturesqueness such as my eyes have
never before beheld。 Then all the crowd is in costume； and such
costume！ The prevailing color for the robe is bright blue。 Even the
coolies put on such a one when not working； and all above the coolies
wear them in rich； ribbed silk； lined with silk of a darker shade。 Over
this a sleeveless jacket of rich dark blue or puce brocade； plain or
quilted； is worn； the trousers； of which little is seen； being of
brocade or satin。 The stockings are white； and the shoes； which are on
thick； white； canoe…shaped soles； are of black satin。 The cap； which is
always worn； and quite on the back of the head； is of black satin； and
the pigtail； or plait of hair and purse silk mixed； hangs down nearly
to the bottom of the robe。 Then the most splendid furs are worn； and
any number of quilted silk and brocade garments； one above another。 And
these big； prosperous…looking men； who are so richly dressed； are only
the shopkeepers and the lower class of merchants。 The mandarins and the
rich merchants seldom put their feet to the ground。
The shops just now are filled with all sorts of brilliant and enticing
things in anticipation of the great festival of the New Year； which
begins on the 21st。 At the New Year they are all closed； and the rich
merchants vie with each other in keeping them so； those whose shops are
closed the longest； sometimes even for two months； gaining a great
reputation for wealth thereby。 Streets are given up to shops of one
kind。 Thus there is the 〃Jade…Stone Street；〃 entirely given up to the
making and sale of jade…stone jewelry； which is very costly； a single
bracelet of the finest stone and workmanship costing 600 pounds。 There
is a whole street devoted to the sale of coffins； several in which
nothing is sold but furniture； from common folding tables up to the
costliest settees； bedsteads； and chairs of massive ebony carving；
chinaware streets； book and engraving streets； streets of silk shops；
streets of workers in brass； silver； and gold； who perform their
delicate manipulations before your eyes； streets of second…hand
clothing； where gorgeous embroideries in silk and gold can be bought
for almost nothing； and so on； every street blazing with colors；
splendid with costume； and abounding with wealth and variety。
We went to a 〃dog and cat restaurant；〃 where a number of richly dressed
men were eating of savory dishes made from the flesh of these animals。
There are thousands of butchers' and fishmongers' shops in Canton。 At
the former there are always hundreds of split and salted ducks hanging
on lines； and pigs of various sizes roasted whole； or sold in joints
raw； and kids and buffalo beef； and numbers of dogs and cats； which；
though skinned； have the tails on to show what they are。 I had some of
the gelatinous 〃birds'…nest〃 soup； without knowing what it was。 It is
excellent； but as these nests are brought from Sumatra and are very
costly； it is only a luxury of the rich。 The fish shops and stalls are
legion； but the fish looks sickening； as it is always cut into slices
and covered with blood。 The boiled chrysalis of a species of silkworm
is exposed for sale as a great delicacy； and so are certain kinds of
hairless； fleshy caterpillars。
In our peregrinations we came upon a Yamun； with its vestibule hung
with scarlet； the marriage color as well as the official color。 Within
the door the 〃wedding garments〃 were hanging for the wedding guests；
scarlet silk crepe； richly embroidered。 Some time later the bridal
procession swept through the streets； adding a new glory to the color
and movement。 First marched a troop of men in scarlet； carrying scarlet
banners； each one emblazoned with the literary degrees of the bride's
father and grandfather。 Then came ten heavily gilded； carved； and
decorated pavilions； containing the marriage presents； borne on poles
on the shoulders of servants； and after them the bride； carried in a
locked palanquin to the bridegroom's house； completely shrouded； the
palanquin one mass of decoration in gold and blue enamel； the carving
fully six inches deep； and the procession was closed by a crowd of men
in scarlet； carrying the bridegroom's literary degrees； with banners；
and instruments of music。 It is the China of a thousand years ago；
unaltered by foreign contact。
There are many beggars； and a 〃Beggars' Square；〃 and the beggars have a
〃king；