anything to produce continuous excitement under this fierce sun； and
conversation； which had been flagging before noon； ceased altogether。
It was awfully hot in the launch； between fire and boiler…heat and
solar fury。 I tried to keep cool by thinking of Mull； and powdery snow
and frosty stars； but it would not do。 It was a solemn afternoon； as
the white； unwinking sun looked down upon our silent party； on the
narrow turbid river； silent too； except for the occasional plunge of an
alligator or other water monsteron mangrove swamps and nipah palms
dense along the river side； on the blue gleam of countless kingfishers；
on slimy creeks arched over to within a few feet of their surface by
grand trees with festoon of lianas； on an infinite variety of foliage；
on an abundance of slender…shafted palms； on great fruits brilliantly
colored； on wonderful flowers on the trees； on the hoya carnosa and
other waxen…leaved trailers matting the forest together and hanging
down in great festoons； the fiery tropic sunblaze stimulating all this
over…production into perennial activity； and vivifying the very mud
itself。
Occasionally we passed a canoe with a 〃savage〃 crouching in it fishing；
but saw no other trace of man； till an hour ago we came upon large
cocoa groves； a considerable clearing in the jungle； and a very large
Malayan…Chinese village with mosques； one on either side of the river；
houses built on platforms over the water； large and small native boats
covered and thatched with attap； roofed platforms on stilts answering
the purpose of piers； bathing…houses on stilts carefully secluded； all
forming the （relatively） important village of Permatang Pasir。
Up to this time we had expected to find perfectly smooth sailing； as a
runner was sent from Malacca to the Resident yesterday。 We supposed
that we should be carried in chairs six miles through the jungle to a
point where a gharrie could meet us； and that we should reach the
Residency by nine tonight at the latest。 On arriving at Sempang； Mr。
Hayward had sent a canoe to this place with instructions to send
another runner to the Resident； but
〃The best laid schemes of men and mice gang aft aglee。〃
The messenger seemed to have served no other purpose than to assemble
the whole male population of Permatang Pasir on the shorea
sombre…faced throng； with an aloofness of manner and expression far
from pleasing。 The thatched piers were crowded with turbaned Mussulmen
in their bajus or short jackets； full white trousers； and red sarongs
or plaitless kiltsthe boys dressed in silver fig…leaves and silver
bangles only。 All looked at our unveiled faces silently； and； as I
thought； disapprovingly。
After being hauled up the pier with great difficulty； owing to the
lowness of the water； we were met by two of the Datu Klana's policemen；
who threw cold water on the idea of our getting on at all unless
Captain Murray sent for us。 These men escorted us to this police
stationa long walk through a lane of much decorated shops；
exclusively Chinese； succeeded by a lane of detached Malay houses； each
standing in its own fenced and neatly sanded compound under the shade
of cocoa…palms and bananas。 The village paths are carefully sanded and
very clean。 We emerged upon the neatly sanded open space on which this
barrack stands； glad to obtain shelter； for the sun is still fierce。 It
is a genuine Malay house on stilts； but where there should be an
approach of eight steps there is only a steep ladder of three round
rungs； up which it is not easy to climb in boots！ There is a deep
veranda under an attap roof of steep slope； and at either end a low bed
for a constable； with the usual very hard； circular Malay bolsters；
with red silk ends； ornamented with gold and silk embroidery。 Besides
this veranda there is only a sort of inner room； with just space enough
for a table and four chairs。 The wall is hung with rifles； krises； and
handcuffs； with which a 〃Sam Slick〃 clock； an engraving from the
Graphic； and some curious Turkish pictures of Stamboul； are oddly mixed
up。 Babu； the Hadji； having recovered from a sulk into which he fell
in consequence of Mr。 Hayward having quizzed him for cowardice about an
alligator； has made everything （our very limited everything） quite
comfortable； and； with as imposing an air as if we were in Government
House； asks us when we will have dinner！ One policeman has brought us
fresh cocoa…nut milk； another sits outside pulling a small punkah； and
two more have mounted guard over us。 This stilted house is the barrack
of eleven Malay constables。 Under it are four guns of light calibre；
mounted on carriages； and outside is a gong on which the policemen beat
the hours。
At the river we were told that the natives would not go up the shallow；
rapid stream by night； and now the corporal says that no man will carry
us through the jungle； that trees are lying across the track； that
there are dangerous swamp holes； that though the tigers which infest
the jungle never attack a party； we might chance to see their glaring
eyeballs； that even if men could be bribed to undertake to carry us；
they would fall with us； or put us down and run away； for no better
reason than that they caught sight of the 〃spectre bird〃 （the owl）； and
he adds； with a gallantry remarkable in a Mohammedan； that he should
not care about Mr。 Hayward； 〃but it would not do for the ladies。〃 So we
are apparently stuck fast； the chief cause for anxiety and
embarrassment being that the youngest Miss Shaw is lying huddled up and
shivering on one of the beds； completely prostrated by a violent sick
headache； brought on by the heat of the sun in the launch。 She declares
that she cannot move； but our experienced escort； who much fears
bilious fever for her； is resolved that she shall as soon as any means
of transit can be procured。 Heretofore； I have always traveled 〃without
encumbrance。〃 Is it treasonable to feel at this moment that these fair
girls are one？
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XII
The Tomb of 〃A Great Prophet〃〃Durance Vile〃Fragile TravelersOur
CraftA Night in the JungleNocturnal RevelationsJanuary in the
Perak JungleGlories of the JungleActivity and StillnessAn Uneasy
NightA Slim RepastBetel…ChewingA Severe DisappointmentPolice
Station at Rassa
BRITISH RESIDENCY； SERAMBANG； SUNGEI UJONG； January 26。
By the date of my letter you will see that our difficulties have been
surmounted。 I continue my narrative in a temperature which； in my
roomshaded though it ishas reached 87 degrees。 After hearing many
pros and cons； and longing much for the freedom of a solitary traveler；
I went out and visited the tomb of a famous Hadji； 〃a great prophet；〃
the policeman said； who was slain in ascending the Linggi。 It is a
raised mound； like our churchyard graves； with a post at each end； and
a jar of oil upon it； and is surrounded by a lattice of reeds on which
curtains are hanging； the whole being covered with a thatched roof
supported on posts。
The village looks prosperous； and the Chinaman as much at home as in
China；striving； thriving； and oblivious of everything but his own
interests； the sole agent in the development of the resources of the
country； well satisfied with our； or any rule； under which his gains
are quick and safe。
There are village officers； or headmen； Pangulus； in all villages； and
every hamlet of more than forty houses has its mosque and religious
officials； though Mohammedanism does not recognize the need of a
priesthood。 If one see a man； with the upper part of his body
unclothed； paddling a log canoe； face forward； one is apt to call him a
savage； specially if he be dark…skinned； but the Malays would be much
offended if they were called savages； and； indeed； they are not so。
They have an elaborate civilization； etiquette； and laws of their own；
are the most rigid of monotheists； are decently clothed； build secluded
and tolerably comfortable houses； and lead domestic lives after their
fashion； especially where they are too poor to be polygamists； though I
am of opinion that the peculiar form of domesticity which we still
cultivate to some extent in England； and which is largely connected
with the fireside； cannot exist in a tropical country。 After the
obtrusive nudity and promiscuous bathing of the Japanese； there is
something specially pleasing in the little secluded bathing sheds by
the Malay rivers； used by one person at a time； who throws a sarong on
the thatch to show that the shed is occupied。
Babu made some excellent soup； which； together with curry made with
fresh cocoa…nut； was a satisfactory meal； and though only in a simple；
white； Indian costume； he waited as grandly as at Malacca。 Mr。
Hayward's knowledge of the peculiarities of the Malay character； at
last obtained our release from what was truly 〃durance vile。〃 He sent
for a boatman apart from his fellows； and induced him to make a bargain
for taking us up the river at night； but the man soon returned in a
state of great excitement； complaining that the villagers had set on
him； and were resolved that we should not go up； upon which the police
went down and interfered。 Even after everything was settled； Miss Shaw