can see over each others' shoulders crowd round him。 Their silent；
concentrated eagerness is a piteous sight； as the cover is slowly
lifted from the heavy brass box in which the dice are kept； on the cast
of which many of them have staked all they possess。 They accept their
losses as they do their gains； with apparent composure。 They work very
hard； and live on very little； but they are poor just now； for the
price of tin has fallen nearly one…half in consequence of the great tin
discoveries in Australia。
Along with Mr。 Hayward I paid a visit to the Court House； a large
whitewashed room； with a clean floor of red tiles； a tiled dais； with a
desk for the judge； a table with a charge sheet and some books upon it；
and three long benches at the end for witnesses and their friends。 A
punkah is kept constantly going。 There are a clerk； a Chinese
interpreter； who speaks six Chinese dialects； and a Malay interpreter；
who puts the Chinese interpreter's words into English。 As the judge
does not understand Malay； it will be observed that justice depends on
the fidelity of this latter official。 Though I cannot say that the
dignity of justice is sustained in this court； there is not a doubt
that the intentions of the judge are excellent； and if some of the
guilty escape； it is not likely that any of the innocent suffer。 The
Datu Bandar sometimes sits on the bench with the Resident。
The benches were crowded almost entirely with Chinamen； and a number of
policemen stood about。 I noticed that these were as anxious as our own
are to sustain a case。 The case which I heard； and which occupied more
than an hour； was an accusation against a wretched Chinaman for
stealing a pig。 I sat on the bench and heard every word that was said；
and arrived at no judicial conclusion； nor did the Resident； so the
accused was dismissed。 He did steal that pig though！ I don't see how
truth can be arrived at in an Oriental court； especially where the
witnesses are members of Chinese secret societies。 Another case of
alleged nocturnal assault； was tried； in which the judge took immense
pains to get at the truth； and the prisoner had every advantage； and
when he was found guilty； was put into a good jail； from which he will
be taken out daily to work on the roads。
Malays being Mussulmen； are mostly tried by the 〃Divine Law〃 of the
Koran； and Chinamen are dealt with 〃in equity。〃 The question to be
arrived at simply is； 〃Did the prisoner commit this crime or did he
not？〃 If he did he is punished； and if he did not he is acquitted。
There are no legal technicalities by which trial can be delayed or the
ends of justice frustrated。 Theft is the most common crime。 One hundred
and fourteen persons were convicted last year； which does not seem a
large proportion （being less than one per cent。） out of an unsettled
mining population of twelve thousand。 Mr。 Hayward； through whose hands
the crime of Singapore and Malacca has filtered for twenty years； was
very critical on the rough and ready method of proceeding here； and
constantly interjected suggestions； such as 〃You don't ask them
questions before you swear them；〃 etc。 Informal as its administration
is； I have no doubt that justice is substantially done； for the
Resident is conscientious and truly honorable。 He is very lovable； and
is evidently much beloved； and is able to go about in unguarded
security。
It is not far from the Court House to the prison； a wholesomely
situated building on a hill； made of concrete； with an attap roof。 The
whole building is one hundred feet long by thirty feet broad。 There are
six cells for solitary confinement。 A jailer； turnkey； and eight
warders constitute the prison staff。 The able…bodied prisoners are
employed on the roads and other public works； and attend upon the
scavengers' cart； which outcome of civilization goes round every
morning！ The diet； which costs fourpence a day for each prisoner；
consists of rice and salt fish； but those who work get two…pence
halfpenny a day in addition； with which they can either buy luxuries or
accumulate a small sum against the time when their sentences expire。
Old and weakly people do light work about the prison。 One man was
executed for murder last year under a sentence signed by the Datu
Klana。 I have not been in a prison since I was in that den of horrors；
the prison of the Naam…Hoi magistrate at Canton； and I felt a little
satisfaction in the contrast。
The same afternoon we all made a very pleasant expedition to the
Sanitarium； a cabin which the Resident has built on a hill three miles
from here。 A chair with four Chinese bearers carried Miss Shaw up； her
sister and the two gentlemen walked； and I rode a Sumatra pony； on an
Australian stock…man's saddle； not only up the steep jungle path； but
up a staircase of two hundred steps in which it terminates； the
sagacious animal going up quite cunningly。 One charm of a tropical
jungle is that every few yards you come upon something new； and every
hundred feet of ascent makes a decided difference in the vegetation。
This is a very grand forest； with its straight； smooth stems running up
over one hundred feet before branching； and the branches are loaded
with orchids and trailers。 One cannot see what the foliage is like
which is borne far aloft into the summer sunshine； but on the ground I
found great red trumpet flowers and crimson corollas； like those of a
Brobdingnagian honeysuckle； and flowers like red dragon…flies
enormously magnified； and others like large； single roses in yellow
wax； falling slowly down now and then； messengers from the floral
glories above； 〃wasting （？） their sweetness on the desert air。〃 A
traveler through a tropical jungle may see very few flowers and be
inclined to disparage it。 It is necessary to go on adjacent rising
ground and look down where trees and trailers are exhibiting their
gorgeousness。 Unlike the coarse weeds which form so much of the
undergrowth in Japan； everything which grows in these forests rejoices
the eye by its form or color； but things which hurt and sting and may
kill； lurk amidst all the beauties。 A creeping plant with very
beautiful waxy leaves； said by Captain Murray to be vanilla； grows up
many of the trees。
When we got up to the top of this； which the Resident calls 〃Plantation
Hill；〃 I was well pleased to find that only the undergrowth had been
cleared away； and that 〃The Sanitarium〃 consists only of a cabin with a
single room divided into two； and elevated on posts like a Malay house。
The deep veranda which surrounds it is reached by a stepladder。 A
smaller house could hardly be； or a more picturesque one； from the
steepness and irregularity of its roof。 The cook…house is a small attap
shed； in a place cut into the hill； and an inclosure of attap screens
with a barrel in it under the house is the bath…room。 The edge of the
hill； from which a few trees have been cleared； is so steep that but
for a bamboo rail one might slip over upon the tree…tops below。 Some
Liberian coffee shrubs； some tea； cinchona； and ipecacuanha； and some
heartless English cabbages； are being grown on the hillside； and the
Resident hopes that the State will have a great future of coffee。
The view in all directions was beautifulto the north a sea of densely
wooded mountains with indigo shadows in their hollows； to the south the
country we had threaded on the Linggi river； forests； and small tapioca
clearings； little valleys where rice is growing； and scars where tin…
mining is going on； the capital； the little town of Serambang with its
larger clearings； and to the west the gleam of the shining sea。 In the
absence of mosquitoes we were able to sit out till after dark； a rare
luxury。 There was a gorgeous sunset of the gory； furnace kind； which
one only sees in the tropicswaves of violet light rolling up over the
mainland； and the low Sumatran coast looking like a purple cloud amidst
the fiery haze。
Dinner was well cooked； and served with coffee after it； just as at
home。 The primitive bath…room was made usable by our eleven servants
and chair…bearers being sent to the hill； where the two gentlemen
mounted guard over them。 After dark the Chinamen made the largest
bonfire I ever saw； or at all events the most brilliant； with trunks of
trees and pieces of gum dammar； several pounds in weight； which they
obtained by digging； and this was kept up till daylight； throwing its
splendid glare over the whole hill…top； lighting up the forest； and
bringing the cabin out in all its picturesqueness。
I should have liked to be there some time to study the ways of a tribe
of ants。 Near the cabin； under a large tree； there was an ant…dwelling；
not exactly to be called an ant…hill； but a subterranean ant…town；
with two entrances。 Into this an army of many thousand largish ants； in
an even column three and a half inches wide； marched continually； in
well 〃dressed〃 ranks； about twenty…seven in each； with the regularity
of a crack regiment on the 〃march past；〃 over all sorts of
inequalities； rough ground； and imbedded trunks of small trees； larger
ants looking like officers marching on both sides of the column； and
sometimes turning back as if to give orders。 Wo