coast； with the trees in straight lines forming long； broad avenues；
which have a certain gloomy grandeur about them。 Then come sugarcane
and padi； and then palm plantations again。
The cocoa…nut palm grows best near salt water； no matter how loose and
sandy the soil is； and in these congenial circumstances needs neither
manure nor care of any kind。 It bends lovingly toward the sea； and
drops its ripe fruit into it。 But if it is planted more than two
hundred yards from the beach； it needs either rich or well…manured
soil； or the proximity of human habitations。 It begins to bear fruit
between its fourth and tenth years； according to soil； and a
well…placed； generous tree bears from one hundred and forty to one
hundred and fifty nuts a year。 They are of wonderfully slow growth。 It
is three months from the time the blossom appears before the fruit
sets； then it takes six months to grow； and three months more to ripen；
and after that will hang two months on the tree before it
fallsfourteen months from the first appearance of the flower！
It is certainly not beautiful as grown in Province Wellesley； and I am
becoming faithless to my allegiance to it in this region of areca and
other more graceful palms。
In returning we saw many Malay kampongs under the palms； each with a
fire lighted underneath it； and there were many other fires for the
water…buffaloes； with groups of these uncouth brutes gathered
invariably on the leeward side； glad to be smoked rather than bitten by
the mosquitoes。 These huge； thin…skinned animals have a strange
antipathy to white people。 They are petted and caressed by the Malays；
and even small boys can do anything with them； and can ride upon their
backs； but constantly when they see white people they raise their
muzzles； and if there be room charge them madly。 A buffalo is
enormously strong； but he objects to the sun； and likes to bathe in
rivers； and plaster himself with mud； and his tastes are much humored
by his owners。 A buffalo has often been known to vanquish a tiger when
both have had fair play。 Most of the drive back was accomplished by
nearly incessant flashes of sheet lightning。
We had a most pleasant evening。 Mrs。 Isemonger； who is a sister of Mr。
Maxwell； my present host； is gentle； thoughtful； well…informed； and
studious； and instead of creating and living in an artificial English
atmosphere which is apt to make a residence in a foreign country a very
unproductive period； she has interested herself in the Malays； and has
not only acquired an excellent knowledge of Malayan； but is translating
a Malayan book。
I felt much humiliated by my ignorance of Province Wellesley； of which
in truth I had never heard until I reached Malacca。 It is a mere strip；
however； only thirty…five miles long by about ten broad； but it is
highly cultivated； fertile； rich； prosperous； and populous。 From Pinang
one sees its broad stretches of bright green sugar…cane and the
chimneys of its sugar factories； and it grows rice and cocoa…nuts； and
is actually more populous than Pinang or Malacca； and contains as many
Malays as Sungei Ujong； Selangor and Pinang togetherfifty…eight
thousand！ Mr。 Maxwell had promised to bring the Kinta； a steam…
launch； across from Georgetown by 8 P。M。； and it shows how very
pleasant the evening was； that though I was very tired； eight； nine；
ten； and eleven came； and the conversation never flagged。
Soon after eleven the Kinta appeared； a black shadow on a silver sea；
roaring for a boat； but the surf was so heavy that it was some time
before the police boat was got off； and then Mr。 Maxwell； whose cheery；
energetic voice precedes him； and Mr。 Walker landed； bullying
everybody； as people often do when they know that they are the
delinquents！ It was lovely in the white moonlight with the curving
shadows of palms on the dewy grass； the grace of the drooping
casuarinas； the shining water； and the long drift of surf。 It was hard
to get off； and the surf broke into the boat； but when we were once
through it； the sea was like oil； the oars dripped flame； and； seen
from the water； the long line of surf broke on the shore not in snow；
but in a long drift of greenish fire。
The Kinta is a steam…launch of the Perak Government。 Her boilers； to
use an expressive Japanese phrase； are 〃very sick；〃 and she is not
nearly so fine as the Abdulsamat； but a quiet； peaceful boat； without
any pretensions； and really any 〃old tub〃 is safe on the Straits of
Malacca except in a 〃Sumatran。〃 I stayed on deck for some time enjoying
the exquisite loveliness of the night； and the vivacity of two of my
companions； Mr。 Maxwell； the Assistant Resident here； a really able and
most energetic man； very argumentative； bright； and pleasant； and
Captain Walker； A。D。C。 to Sir W。 Robinson； on his way from the
ceaseless gayeties of Government House at Singapore to take command of
the Sikh military police in the solitary jungles of Perak。 The third；
Mr。 Innes； Superintendent of Lower Perak； whose wife so nearly lost her
life in the horrible affair at Pulo Pangkor； was in dejected spirits；
as if the swamps of Durion Sabatang had been too much for him。
The little cabin below was frightfully hot； and I shared it not only
with two nice Malay boys； sons of the exiled Abdullah； the late Sultan；
who are being educated at Malacca； but with a number of large and
rampant rats。 Finding the heat and rats unbearable； I went on deck in
the rosy dawn； just as we were entering the Larut river； a muddy
stream； flowing swiftly between dense jungles and mangrove swamps； and
shores of shining slime； on which at low water the alligators bask in
the sunone of the many rivers of the Peninsula which do not widen at
their mouths。
The tide was high and the river brimming full； looking as if it must
drown all the forest； and the trestle…work roots on which the mangroves
are hoisted were all submerged。 It is a silent； lonely land； all
densely green。 Many an uprooted palm with its golden plumes and wealth
of golden husked nuts came floating down on the swirling waters； and
many a narrow creek well suited for murder； overarched with trees； and
up which one might travel far and still be among mangrove swamps and
alligators； came down into the Larut river； and once we passed a small
clearing； where some industrious Chinamen are living in huts on some
festering slime between the river and the jungle； and once a police
station on stilts； where six policemen stood in a row and saluted as we
passed； and at seven we reached Teluk Kartang； with a pier； a long
shed； two or three huts； and some officialism； white and partly white；
all in a 〃dismal swamp。〃 A small but very useful Chinese trading
steamer； the Sri Sarawak； was lying against the pier； and we landed
over her filthy deck； on which filthy Chinese swine； among half…naked
men almost as filthy； were wrangling for decomposing offal。 Dismal as
this place looks； an immense trade in imports and exports is done
there； and all the tin from the rich mines of the district is sent
thence to Pinang for transhipment。
While my friends transacted business； I waited for an age in an empty
office where was one chair； a table dark with years of ink splotches； a
mouldy inkstand； a piece of an old almanac； and an empty gin bottle。
Outside； cockle…shells were piled against the wall； then there were
ditches or streamlets cutting through profuse and almost loathsome
vegetation； and shining slime fat and iridescent； swarming with
loathsome forms of insect and reptile life all rioting under the fierce
sun； and among them； almost odious by proximity to such vileness； were
small crabs with shells of a heavenly blue。 The strong vegetable stench
was nearly overpowering； but I wrote to you and worked at your
embroidery a little； and so got through this detention pleasantly； as
through many a longer； though never a hotter one。
After a time three gharries arrived； and Mr。 Innes and I went in one；
the two other gentlemen in another； and Sultan Abdullah's boys in the
third。 No amount of world…wide practice in the getting in and out of
strange vehicles is any help to the tortuous process necessary for
mounting and dismounting from a Larut gharrie。 A gharrie is a two…
wheeled cart with a seat across it for two people and a board in front
on which the driver sits when he is not running by his horse。 This
board and the low roof which covers the whole produce the complication
in getting in and out。 The bottom of the cart is filled up with grass
and leaves； and you put your feet on the board in front； and the little
rats of fiery Sumatra ponies； which will run till they drop； jolt you
along at great speed。 Klings； untroubled by much clothing； own and
drive these vehicles； which are increasing rapidly。 The traffic on the
road of heavy buffalo carts； loaded with tin； cuts it up so badly that
without care one might often be thrown upon the pony's back at the
river end of it。
Near the port we met three elephants； the centre one of great size；
rolling along； one of them with a mahout seated behind his great
flapping ears。 These are part of the regalia of the deposed Sultan； and
were sent down from the interior for