flapping ears。 These are part of the regalia of the deposed Sultan； and
were sent down from the interior for me and my baggage。 The smallest of
them would have carried me and my 〃Gladstone bag〃 and canvas roll。 The
first sight of 〃elephants at home〃 is impressive； but they are
fearfully ugly； and their rolling gait does not promise well for the
ease of my future journey。
We passed through a swampy； but busy…looking Chinese village； masculine
almost solely； where Chinamen were building gharries and selling all
such things as Chinese coolies buy； just the same there as everywhere；
and at home there as everywhere； yellow； lean； smooth…shaven； keen；
industrious； self…reliant； sober； mercenary； reliable； mysterious；
opium…smoking； gambling； hugging clan ties； forming no others； and
managing their own matters even to the post and money…order offices；
through which they are constantly sending money to the interior of
China。 I hope that it is not true that they look at us； as a singularly
able and highly educated Chinaman lately said to me that they do； as
〃the incarnation of brute force allied to brute vices！〃 This is a
Chinese region； so the degression is excusable。
It was bright and hot； the glorious； equable equatorial heat； and when
we got out of the mangrove swamps through which the road is causewayed；
there was fine tropical foliage； and the trees were festooned with a
large； blue Thunbergia of great beauty。 It is eight miles from the
landing at Teluk Kartang to Taipeng； where the British Residency is。
The road crosses uninteresting level country； but every jolt brings one
nearer to the Hijan mountains； which rise picturesquely from the plain
to a height of over three thousand feet。 In the distance there is an
extraordinary 〃butte〃 or isolated hill； Gunong Pondok； a landmark for
the whole region； and on the right to the east a grand mountain range；
the highest peak of which cannot fall far short of eight thousand feet；
and the blue…green ranges showing the foam of at least one waterfall
almost helped one to be cool。
We reached Permatang； another Chinese village of some pretensions and
population； near which are two very large two…storied Malay houses in
some disrepair； in which the wife of the banished Mentri of Larut
lives； with a number of slaves。 A quantity of mirthful…looking slave
girls were standing behind the window bars looking at us
surreptitiously。 We alighted at the house of Mr。 Wynne； the Government
Agent； who at once said something courteous and hospitable about
breakfast； which I was longing for； but after I had had a bath I found
that we were to pursue our journey； I regretting for the second time
already Mr。 Maxwell's abstemiousness and power of going without food！
From this point we drove along an excellent road toward the mountains；
over whose cool summits cloud mists now and then drifted； and near noon
entered this important Chinese town； with a street about a mile long；
with large bazaars and shops making a fine appearance； being much
decorated in Chinese style； halls of meeting for the different tribes；
gambling houses； workshops； the Treasury （a substantial dark wood
building）； large detached barracks for the Sikh police； a hospital； a
powder magazine； a parade ground； a Government store…house； a large；
new jail； neat bungalows for the minor English officials； and on the
top of a steep； isolated terraced hill； the British Residency。 This
hill is really too steep for a vehicle to ascend； but the plucky pony
and the Kling driver together pulled the gharrie up the zigzags in a
series of spasms； and I was glad to get out of the sunshine into a
cool； airy house； where there was a hope of breakfast； or rather
tiffin。
The Residency is large and lofty； and thoroughly draughty； a high
commendation so near the equator。 It consists of a room about thirty
feet wide by sixty long； and about twenty feet high at its highest
part； open at both ends； the front end a great bow window without glass
opening on an immense veranda。 This room and its veranda are like the
fore cabin of a great Clyde steamer。 It has a red screen standing
partly across it； the back part being used for eating； and the front
for sitting and occupation。 My bedroom and sitting…room； and the room
in which Sultan Abdullah's boys sleep are on one side； and Mr。
Maxwell's room and office on the other。 Underneath are bath…rooms； and
guard…rooms for the Sikh sentries。 There are no ornaments or
superfluities。 There are two simple meals daily； with tea and bananas
at 7 A。M。； and afternoon tea at 5 P。M。 Mr。 Maxwell is most abstemious；
and is energetically at work from an early hour in the morning。 There
is a perpetual coming and going of Malays； and an air of business
without fuss。 There is a Chinese 〃housemaid；〃 who found a snake； four
feet long； coiled up under my down quilt yesterday； and a Malay butler；
but I have not seen any other domestic。
Those boys of Sultan Abdullah's are the most amusing children I ever
saw。 They are nine and twelve years old； with monkey…like；
irrepressible faces。 They have no ballast。 They talk ceaselessly； and
are very playful and witty； but though a large sum is being paid for
their education at Malacca； they speak atrocious 〃pidjun；〃 and never
use Malayan； in my hearing at least。 They are never still for one
instant； they chatter； read snatches from books； ask questions about
everything； but are too volatile to care for the answers； turn
somersaults； lean over my shoulders as I write； bring me puzzles； and
shriek and turn head over heels when I can't find them out； and jump on
Mr。 Maxwell's shoulders begging for dollars。 I like them very much；
for； though they are so restless and mercurial； they are neither rude
nor troublesome。 They have kept the house alive with their antics； but
they are just starting on my elephants for Kwala Kangsa； on a visit to
the Regent。 I wonder what will become of them？ Their father is an exile
in the Seychelles； and though it was once thought that one of them
might succeed the reigning Rajah； another Rajah is so popular with the
Malays； and so intelligent； that it is now unlikely that his claims
will be set aside。
The steep little hill on which the Residency stands is planted with
miserable coffee； with scanty yellow foliage。 The house on my side has
a magnificent view of the beautiful Hijan hills； down which a waterfall
tumbles in a broad sheet of foam only half a mile off； and which breed
a rampageous fresh breeze for a great part of the day。 The front
veranda looks down on Taipeng and other Chinese villages； on neat and
prolific Chinese vegetable gardens； on pits； formerly tin mines； now
full of muddy； stagnant water； on narrow； muddy rivulets bearing the
wash of the tin mines to the Larut river； on all the weediness and
forlornness of a superficially exhausted mining region； and beyond upon
an expanse of jungle； the limit of which is beyond the limit of vision；
miles of tree tops as level as the ocean； over which the cloud shadows
sail in purple all day long。 In the early morning the parade ground is
gay with 〃thin red〃 lines of soldiers； and all day long with a glass I
can see the occupations and bustle of Taipeng。
Taipeng is a thriving； increasing place； of over six thousand
inhabitants； solely Chinese； with the exception of a small Kling
population； which keeps small shops； lends money； drives gharries and
bullock…carts； and washes clothes。 This place was the focus of the
disturbances in 1873； and the Chinese seem still to need to be held in
check； for they are not allowed to go out at night without passes and
lanterns。 They are miners； except those who keep the innumerable shops
which supply the miners； and some of them are rich。 Taipeng is
tolerably empty during the day； but at dusk； when the miners return；
the streets and gambling dens are crowded； and the usual Babel of
Chinese tongues begins。 There are scarcely any Malays in the town。
Mr。 Maxwell walks and rides about everywhere unattended and without
precautions； but Sikh sentries guard this house by night and day。 They
wear large blue turbans； scarlet coats and white trousers。 There are
four hundred and fifty of them； recruited in India from among the Sikhs
and Pathans； and many of them have seen service under our flag。 They
are； to all intents and purposes； soldiers； drilled and disciplined as
such； though called 〃Armed Police；〃 and are commanded by Major
Swinburne of the 80th Regiment。 There is a half battery of mountain
train rifled guns； and many of these men are drilled as gunners。 Their
joy would be in shooting and looting； but they have not any scent for
crime。 They are splendid…looking men； with long moustaches and
whiskers； but they plait the long ends of the latter and tuck them up
under their turbans。 They have good…natured faces generally； and are
sober； docile and peaceable； but Major Swinburne says that they indulge
in violent wordy warfare on 〃theological subjects。〃 They are devoted to
the accumulation of money； and very many of them being betrothed to
little girls in India； save nearly all their pay in order to buy land
and settle there。 When off duty they wear turbans and robe