and settle there。 When off duty they wear turbans and robes nearly as
white as snow； and look both classical and colossal。 They get on
admirably with the Malays； but look down on the Chinese； who are much
afraid of them。 One sees a single Sikh driving four or five Chinamen in
front of him； having knotted their pigtails together for reins。 I have
been awoke each night by the clank which attends the change of guard；
and as the moonlight flashes on the bayonets； I realize that I am in
Perak。
The air is so bracing here and the nights so cool； that I have been out
by seven each morning； and have been into Taipeng in the evening。 This
morning I went to see the hospital； mainly used by the Sikhs； who；
though very docile patients； are most troublesome in other ways； owing
to religious prejudices； which render it nearly impossible to cook for
them。 There was one wretched Chinaman there； horribly mangled。 He was
stealing a boat on one of the many creeks； when an alligator got hold
of him； and tore both legs； one arm； and his back in such a way that it
is wonderful that he lives。 The apothecary is a young Madrassee。 One or
two cases of that terrible disease known in Japan as Kakke； and
elsewhere as Beri…Beri； have just appeared。* We walked also to a clear
mountain torrent which comes thundering down among great boulders and
dense tropical vegetation at the foot of the mountains； as clear and
cold as if it were a Highland stream dashing through the purple
heather。
＇*Since my visit there have been three fatal outbreaks of this epidemic；
three thousand deaths having occurred among the neighboring miners and
coolies。 So firmly did the disease appear to have established itself；
that a large permanent hospital was erected by the joint efforts of the
chief mining adventurers and the Government； but it has now been taken
over altogether by the Government； and is supported by an annual tax of
a dollar； levied upon every adult Chinaman。 Extensive hospital
accommodation and sufficient medical attendance have also been provided
in other stricken localities。 In the jail； where the disease was very
fatal； it has nearly died out； in consequence； it is believed； of
supplying the prisoners with a larger quantity of nitrogenous food。 It
has been proposed to compel the employers of mining coolies to do the
same thing； for the ravages of the disease are actually affecting the
prosperity of Larut。＇
There are 〃trumpeter beetles〃 here； with bright green bodies and
membranous…looking transparent wings； four inches across； which make
noise enough for a creature the size of a horse。 Two were in the house
tonight； and you could scarcely hear anyone speak。 But there is a
blessed respite from mosquitoes。
Major Swinburne and Captain Walker have dined here； and we had a simple
dinner of roast mutton； the first that I have tasted for ten months。 It
is a great treat。 One becomes tired of made dishes； consisting chiefly
of impoverished fowls； disguised in about twenty different ways。
When I left Malacca； Captain Shaw said： 〃When you see Paul Swinburne
you'll see a man you'll not see twice in a lifetime；〃 so yesterday；
when a tall； slender； aristocratic…looking man； who scarcely looks
severable from the door…steps of a Pall Mall club； strode down the room
and addressed me abruptly with the words： 〃The sooner you go away again
the better； there's nothing to see； nothing to do； and nothing to
learn；〃 I was naturally much interested。 He has a dash of acquired
eccentricity of tone and manner； is very proud； but； unlike some proud
people； appreciates the co…humanity of his inferiors； is a brilliant
talker； dashing over art； literature； politics； society； tells stories
brilliantly； never flags； is totally regardless of 〃the equities of
conversation；〃 and is much beloved by the Sikhs； to whom he is just。
At Pinang I heard an anecdote of him which is quite credible。 The
regent （it is said） wanted him to use the Sikhs to catch a female
runaway slave； and on his refusing； the Rajah made use of a very
opprobrious epithet； on which he drew himself up； saying： 〃You are a
man of high birth in your country； but I'm a man of high birth in mine；
and； so long as I bear Queen Victoria's commission； I refuse to accept
insult。 I take no future orders from your highness。〃 Nor； it is said；
has he。
My human surroundings have an unusual amount of piquancy。 Mr。 Maxwell
is very pleasant； strong； both physically and mentally； clever and
upright； educated at Oxford and Lincoln's Inn； but brought up in the
Straits Settlements； of which his father was chief…justice。 He is able；
combative； dogmatic； well…read and well…informed； expresses himself
incisively； is self…reliant； strong…willed； thoroughly just； thoroughly
a gentleman； and has immense energy and business capacity； and a large
amount of governing power。 He； too； likes talking； and talks well； but
with much perfectly good…natured vehemence。 He is a man on whose word
one may implicitly rely。 Brought up among Malays； and speaking their
language idiomatically； he not only likes them； but takes the trouble
to understand them and enter into their ideas and feelings。 He studies
their literature； superstitions； and customs carefully； and has made
some valuable notes upon them。 I should think that few people
understand the Malays better than he does。 He dislikes the Chinese。 I
have the very pleasant feeling regarding him that he is the right man
in the right place； and that his work is useful； conscientious； and
admirable。 As Assistant Resident he is virtually dictator of Larut；
only subject to Mr。 Low's interference。 He is a judge； and can inflict
the penalty of death； the Regent's signature； however； being required
for the death…warrant。 He rules the Chinese rigidly。
Captain Walker is a new comer； and does not know more about Perak than
I do。
At this dinner of four there was as much noise as twenty stupid people
would make！ Something brought up the dead lock in Victoria； which
excited violent feeling for some reason not obvious。 Captain Walker
threw off his somewhat suave A。D。C。 manner； and looked dangerous； Mr。
Maxwell fought for victory； and Major Swinburne to beat Mr。 Maxwell；
and the row was deafening。 I doubt whether such an argument could have
been got up in moist； hot Singapore； or steamy Malacca！ An energetic
difference seems of daily occurrence； and possibly is an essential
ingredient of friendship。 That it should be possible shows what an
invigorating climate this must be。 Major Swinburne； in an aggravating
tone； begins upon some peculiarity or foible； real or supposed； of his
friend； with a deluge or sarcasm； mimicry； ridicule； and invective；
torments him mercilessly； and without giving him time to reply；
disappears； saying； Parthian…like； 〃Now； my dear fellow； its no use
resenting it； you haven't such a friend as me in the worldyou know if
it were not for me you'd be absolutely intolerable！〃 All this is very
amusing。 How many differing characters are required to make up even the
world that I know！
It is strange to be in a house in which there are no pets； for a small
Malay bear which lives at the back can scarcely be called one。
Sometimes in the evening a wild animal called a lemur rushes wildly
through the house and out at the front veranda。 I am always afraid of
being startled by his tearing through my room in the depths of the
night； for here； as in many other houses； instead of doors there are
screens raised a foot from the ground。
This morning I got up before daylight； and went up a hill which is
being cleared； to enjoy the sunrise； the loveliest time of the tropic
day。 It was all dew and rose color； with a delicious freshness in the
air； prolonged unusually； because the sun was so slow to climb above
the eastern mountain tops。 Then there was a sudden glory； and birds；
beasts； and insects broke into a vociferous chorus； the tuneless hymn
which ascends daily without a discord。 There are sumptuously colored
sunsets to be seen from this elevation； but one has no time to enjoy
them； and they make one long for the lingering gold and purple of more
northern latitudes。 I have really been industrious since I came here；
both in writing to you； and in 〃reading up〃 the native states in blue
books； etc。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XIX
The Chinese in Larut〃Monkey Cups〃Chinese HospitalityA Sikh Belle
BRITISH RESIDENCY； LARUT。
I am remaining here for another day or two； so have time to tell you a
little about the surroundings。
Larut province is a strip of land about seventy miles long； and from
twenty…five to forty…five broad。 It was little known； and almost
unexplored till 1848； when a Malay； while bathing； found some coarse；
black sand； which； on being assayed； proved to be tin。 He obtained
twenty Chinese coolies； opened a mine which turned out lucrative； and
the Chinese at home hearing that money was to be made； flocked into
Larut； but after some years took to quarreling about the ownership of
mines； and eventually to a war between the two leading clans； which
threatened to be a war of extermination； and resulted in British
interference； and the appointment of a Resident； and then Chinese