blazing down upon it； with everything that could rejoice the eye upon
its shores； with little beaches of golden sands； and above the forest
the mountains with varying shades of indigo coloring。
There would have been nothing left to wish for if you had been there to
see； though you would have tried to look as if you saw an elephant
moving submerged along a tropical river every day with people of three
races on his back！！
The Singhalese said； 〃I'm going to take you to Koto…lamah； no European
has been there since the war。 I've never been there； nor the Resident
either。〃 I have pored over blue books long enough to know that this is
a place which earned a most unenviable notoriety during the recent
troubles； and is described as 〃a stronghold of piracy； lawlessness； and
disaffection。〃 As we were making a diagonal crossing of the Perak； the
Singhalese said； 〃A few months ago they would have been firing at us
from both sides of the river。〃 It was a beautiful view at that point；
with the lovely river in its windings； and on the top of the steep bank
a kampong of largish houses under palms and durions。 A good many people
assembled on the cliff； some with muskets and some with spears； and the
Singhalese said； 〃I wish we had not come；〃 but as the elephant
scrambled up the bank the people seemed quite friendly； and I
dismounted and climbed up to a large house with a very open floor； on
which fine mats were laid in several places。 There were many women and
children in the room when I went in； and one of the former put a fine
mat over a rice sack for me。 Presently the room filled up with people；
till there were fifty…nine seated in circles on the floor； but some of
the men remained standing； one a thorough villain in looks； a Hadji；
with a dirty green turban and a red sarong。 The rest of the men wore
handkerchiefs and sarongs only。
These people really did look much like savages。 They all carried
parangs； or the short kris called a golo； and haying been told that the
Malays were disarmed； I was surprised to see several muskets； a rifle；
and about thirty spears on the wall。 So I found myself in the heart of
what has been officially described as 〃a nest of robbers and
murderers；〃 〃the centre of disturbance and disaffection；〃 etc。 To make
it yet more interesting； on inquiring whose house it was； the name of a
notorious 〃rebel〃 leader was mentioned； and one of the women； I was
told； is the principal wife or rather widow of the Maharajah Lela； who
was executed for complicity in the assassination of Mr。 Birch。
However； though as a Briton I could not have been a welcome visitor；
they sent a monkey for two cocoa…nuts； and gave me their delicious
milk； and when I came away they took the entrance ladder from one of
the houses to help me to mount the elephant。
Mr。 Low was at first displeased that I had been to Koto…lamah； and
said that my escort was 〃ignorant and foolish〃 for taking me； but now
he says that though he would not have taken the responsibility of
sending me； he is glad that the thing was done； as it affords a proof
such as he has not yet had of the complete pacification of the
district； but； he added； it would appear somewhat odd that the first
European to test the disposition of the Koto…lamah people should be a
lady。
Leaving this large kampong we traveled by a much…grown…up elephant
track； needing the constant use of the parang and the strength and
wisdom of the elephant to make it passable； saw several lairs and some
recent tiger tracks； crossed a very steep hill； and； after some hours
of hard riding； came down upon the lovely Perak； which we crossed in a
〃dugout〃 so nearly level with the water that at every stroke of the
paddle of the native who crouched in the bow the water ran in over the
edge。 We landed at the village of Kwala Kangsa
〃In the glory of the sunset；
In the purple mists of evening；〃
in which the magnified purple mountains were piled like Alps against
the flaming clouds。 By the river bank lay the Dragon boat and the
square bamboo floating bath； through the side of which Mr。 Birch was
mortally wounded。
On landing we met a very bright intelligent…looking young Malay with a
train of followers； a dandy almost； in white trousers； short red
sarong； black baju with gold buttons； gold watchguard； and red head
dress。 The expression of his face was keen and slightly scornful。 This
is Rajah Dris； a judge； and the probable successor to the Perak throne。
The present Resident thinks highly both of his character and his
abilities； and he is very popular among his countrymen。 He walked with
us as far as the mosque； and I heard him ask questions about me。 The
Mussulmen of the village； several of them being Hadjis； were assembling
for worship； lounging outside the mosque till the call to prayer came。
Ablutions before worshiping are performed in floating baths in the
river。 The trade of Kwala Kangsa seems in the hands of the Chinese；
with a few Klings among them； and they have a row of shops。
LETTER XX （Continued）
A Joyous WelcomeA Severe MortificationThe British ResidentDaily
VisitorsRajah DrisA Tipsy ApeMarriage CeremoniesMarriage
FestivitiesMalay ChildrenThe Rajah Muda YusufA Dreary
FuneralFascinating CompanionshipA Cocoa…Nut GathererThe Argus
PheasantAn Opium WreckRhinoceros
HornsElephant…TamingPetrifying Influences of IslamismA Dwindling
Race
February 17。I was very glad that yesterday was Sunday； so that I had
a quiet day； for nearly twelve hours of jungle riding on an elephant
makes one very stiff and sleepy。 Three days of solitude； meals in the
company of apes； elephant excursions； wandering about alone； and free；
open air； tropical life in the midst of all luxuries and comforts； have
been very enchanting。 At night； when the servants had retired to their
quarters and the apes to the roof； and I was absolutely alone in the
bungalow； the silent Oriental sentries motionless below the veranda
counting for nothing； and without a single door or window to give one
the feeling of restraint； I had some of the 〃I'm monarch of all I
survey〃 feeling； and when drum beat and bugle blast； and the turning
out of the Sikh guard； indicated that the Resident was in sight； I felt
a little reluctant to relinquish the society of animals； and my
〃solitary reign；〃 which seemed almost 〃ancient〃 also。
When Mr。 Low； unattended as he always is； reached the foot of the
stairs the retriever leapt down with one bound； and through the air
over his head fled Mahmoud and Eblis； uttering piercing cries； the
siamang； though keeping at a distance； adding to the jubilations； and
for several minutes I saw nothing of my host； for these creatures；
making every intelligent demonstration of delight； were hanging round
him with their long arms； the retriever nearly wild with joy； but
frantically jealous； all the creatures welcoming him more warmly than
most people would welcome their relations after a long absence。 Can it
be wondered at that people like the society of these simple； loving；
unsophisticated beings？
Mr。 Low's arrival has inflicted a severe mortification on me； for
Eblis； who has been absolutely devoted to me since I rescued him from
Mahmoud； has entirely deserted me； takes no notice of me； and seems
anxious to disclaim our previous acquaintance！ I have seen children do
just the same thing； so it makes the kinship appear even closer。 He
shows the most exquisite devotion to his master； caresses him with his
pretty baby hands； murmurs ouf in the tenderest of human tones； and
sits on his shoulder or on his knee as he writes； looking up with a
strange wistfulness in his eyes； as if he would like to express himself
in something better than a monosyllable。
This is a curious life。 Mr。 Low sits at one end of the veranda at his
business table with Eblis looking like his familiar spirit； beside him。
I sit at a table at the other end； and during the long working hours we
never exchange one word。 Mahmoud sometimes executes wonderful capers；
the strange； wild； half…human face of the siamang peers down from the
roof with a half…trustful； half…suspicious expression； the retriever
lies on the floor with his head on his paws； sleeping with one eye
open； always on the watch for a coveted word of recognition from his
master； or a yet more coveted opportunity of going out with him； tiffin
and dinner are silently served in the veranda recess at long intervals；
the sentries at the door are so silently changed that one fancies that
the motionless blue turbans and scarlet coats contain always the same
men； in the foreground the river flows silently； and the soft airs
which alternate are too feeble to stir the over…shadowing palm…fronds
or rustle the attap of the roof。 It is hot； silent； tropical。 The sound
of Mr。 Low's busy pen alone breaks the stillness during much of the
day； so silent is it that the first heavy drops of the daily tropical
shower on the roof have a startling effect。
Mr。 Low is greatly esteemed； and is regarded in the official circles of
the Settlements as a model administrator。 He has had thirty years'
experience in the East； mainly among Malays； and has brought not only a
thoroughly idiomatic