experience in the East； mainly among Malays； and has brought not only a
thoroughly idiomatic knowledge of the Malay language； but a sympathetic
insight into Malay character to his present post。 He understands the
Malays and likes them； and has not a vestige of contempt for a dark
skin； a prejudice which is apt to create an impassable gulf between the
British official and the Asiatics under his sway。 I am inclined to
think that Mr。 Low is happier among the Malays and among his apes and
other pets than he would be among civilized Europeans！
He is working fourteen hours out of the twenty…four。 I think that work
is his passion； and a change of work his sole recreation。 He devotes
himself to the promotion of the interests of the State； and his evident
desire is to train the native Rajahs to rule the people equitably。 He
seems to grudge every dollar spent superfluously on the English
establishment； and contents himself with this small and old…fashioned
bungalow。 In this once disaffected region he goes about unarmed； and in
the daytime the sentries only carry canes。 His manner is as quiet and
unpretending as can possibly be； and he speaks to Malays as
respectfully as to Europeans； neither lowering thereby his own dignity
nor theirs。 Apparently they have free access to him during all hours of
daylight； and as I sit writing to you or reading； a Malay shadow
constantly falls across my paper； and a Malay； with silent； cat…like
tread glides up the steps and appears unannounced in the veranda； on
which Mr。 Low at once lays aside whatever he is doing； and quietly
gives himself to the business in hand。 The reigning prince； the Rajah
Muda Yusuf； and Rajah Dris； are daily visitors； the former brings a
troop of followers with him； and they remain outside； their red sarongs
and picturesque attitudes as they lounge in the shade； giving to the
place that 〃native〃 air which everywhere I love； at least where
〃natives〃 are treated as I think that they ought to be； and my
requirements are pretty severe！
I am painfully aware of the danger here； as everywhere； of forming
hasty and inaccurate judgments； and of drawing general conclusions from
partial premises； and on my present tour there is the added risk of
seeing things through official spectacles； but still certain things lie
on the surface； and a traveler must be very stupid indeed if he does
not come to an approximately just conclusion concerning them。 As； for
instance； it is easy to see that far in the interior of the Malay
Peninsula； in regions rarely visited by Europeans； themselves without
advisers； and away from the influence of public opinion； dealing with
weak rulers to whom they represent preponderating brute force in the
last resort； the position of 〃Resident〃 is very much what the
individual man chooses to make it。 Nor is it difficult to perceive
whether the relations between the English official and the natives are
hearty and cordial； or sullen and distrustful； or whether the Resident
makes use of his position for purposes of self…aggrandizement； and
struts tempestuously and swaggeringly before the Malays； or whether he
devotes his time and energies to the promotion of prosperity； good
order； and progress； in a firm and friendly spirit。
After a very quiet day we went at sunset； to see Rajah Dris； not taking
the dog。 The trifling matter of the dog being regarded as an
abomination is one of the innumerable instances of the ingrained
divergence between Moslem and Christian feeling。 Rajah Dris lives in a
good house； but it is Europeanized； and consequently vulgarized。 He
received us very politely on the stairs； and took us into a sitting…
room in which there were various ill…assorted European things。 His
senior wife was brought in； a dull； heavy…looking woman； a daughter of
the Rajah Muda Yusuf； and after her a number of slave women and babies；
till the small room was well filled。 The Rajah hospitably entertained
us with tea； milk； and preserved bananas； but I noticed with regret
that the white table…cloth was much soiled； and that the china and
glass were in very bad taste。 The house and its equipments are a
distressing contrast to those of the Datu Bandar in Sungei Ujong； who
adheres closely to Malay habits。 Rajah Dris sent a servant the whole
way back with us； carrying a table lamp。
to…day the mercury was at 90 degrees for several hours。 The nights；
however； are cool enough for sleep。 I have lately taken to the Malay
custom of a sleeping mat； and find it cooler than even the hardest
mattress。 I did not sleep much； however； for so many rats and lizards
ran about my room。 These small； bright…eyed lizards go up the walls in
search of flies。 They dart upon the fly with very great speed； but just
as you think that they are about to swallow him they pause for a second
or two and then make the spring。 I have never seen a fly escape during
this pause； which looks as if the lizard charmed or petrified his
victim。 The Malays have a proverb based upon this fact： 〃Even the
lizard gives the fly time to pray。〃 There were other noises； for wild
beasts； tigers probably； came so near as to scare the poultry and
horses； and roared sullenly in the neighborhood for a long time； and
the sentries challenged two people； after which I heard a messenger
tell Mr。 Low of a very distressing death。
February。 18。Major Swinburne and Captain Walker arrived in the
morning； and we had a grand tiffin at twelve； and Mahmoud was allowed
to sit on the table； and he ate sausages； pommeloe； bananas；
pine…apple； chicken and curry； and then seizing a long glass of
champagne； drank a good deal before it was taken from him。 If
drunkenness were not a loathsome human vice； it would have been most
amusing to see it burlesqued by this ape。 He tried to seem sober and to
sit up； but could not； then staggered to a chair； trying hard to walk
steadily； and nodding his head with a would…be witty but really
obfuscated look； then； finding that he could not sit up； he reached a
cushion and lay down very neatly； resting his head on his elbow and
trying to look quite reasonable； but not succeeding； and then he fell
asleep。
After tiffin a Rajah came and asked me to go with him to his house； and
we walked down with his train of followers and my Malay attendant。 It
was a very nice house； with harmonious coloring and much deep shadow。
It soon filled with people。 There were two women； but not having an
interpreter； I could not tell whether they were the chief's wives or
sisters。 He showed me a number of valuable krises； spears and parangs；
and the ladies brought sherbet and sweetmeats； and they were altogether
very jolly； and made me pronounce the Malay names of things； and the
women laughed heartily when I pronounced them badly。 They showed me
some fine diamonds； very beautifully set in that rich； red 〃gold of
Ophir〃 which makes our yellow western gold look like a brazen
imitation； as they evidently thought； for they took off my opal ring；
and holding the gold against their own ornaments； made gestures of
disapproval。 I think that opals were new to them； and they were
evidently delighted with their changing colors。
Mussulman law is very stringent as to some of the rights of wives。 In
Malay marriage contracts it is agreed that all savings and 〃effects〃
are to be the property of husband and wife equally； and are to be
equally divided in case of divorce。 A man who insists on divorcing his
wife not only has to give her half his effects； but to repay the sum
paid as the marriage portion。 It appears that polygamy is rare； except
among the chiefs。
Marriage is attended with elaborate arrangements among these people；
and the female friends of both parties usually make the 〃engagement；〃
after which the bridegroom's friends go to the bride's father； talk
over the dowry； make presents； and pay the marriage expenses。 Commonly；
especially among the higher classes； the bridegroom does not see the
lady's face until the marriage day。 Marriage is legalized by a
religious ceremony； and then if the wife be grown up her husband takes
her to his own home。 Girls are married at fourteen or fifteen； and
although large families are rare； they look old women at forty。
On the day before the marriage expenses are paid by the bridegroom； the
bride…elect has her teeth filed。 It is this process which gives the
Malay women； who are very pretty as children； their very repulsive
look。 It produces much the same appearance of wreck and ruin as
blackening the teeth does in Japan； and makes a smile a thing to be
dreaded。 Young girls are not allowed to chew betel； which stains
badly； and have white； pearly teeth； but these are considered like the
teeth of animals。 The teeth are filed down to a quarter of their
natural length by means of a hard Sumatran stone； or fine steel file。
The operation lasts about an hour； and the gums continue swelled and
painful for some days。 After they have recovered； the blackening of the
teeth by means of betel chewing is accelerated by means of a black
liquid obtained by burning cocoa…nut shells on iron； Three days before
the marriage ceremony henna is applied to the nails of the hands and
feet； and also to the pa