getting us all out was in a moment at the top of a high tree； leaping
from branch to branch； throwing himself on coffee shrubs below；
swinging himself up again in a flash； leaping； bounding！ a picture of
agility； strength； and happiness。 The usual morning gathering of Rajahs
and their followers； with Klings and Sikhs； was there； and I suspect
that they thought adult Europeans very foolish for being amused with
these harum…scarum antics。
A follower had brought a 〃baboon；〃 an ape or monkey trained to gather
cocoa…nuts； a hideous beast on very long legs when on all fours； but
capable of walking erect。 They called him a 〃dog…faced baboon；〃 but I
think they were wrong。 He has a short； curved tail； sable…colored fur
darkening down his back； and a most repulsive； treacherous； and
ferocious countenance。 He is fierce； but likes or at all events obeys
his owner； who held him with a rope fifty feet long。 At present he is
only half tame； and would go back to the jungle if he were liberated。
He was sent up a cocoa…nut tree which was heavily loaded with nuts in
various stages of ripeness and unripeness； going up in surly fashion；
looking round at intervals and shaking his chain angrily。 When he got
to the top he shook the fronds and stalks； but no nuts fell； and he
chose a ripe one； and twisted it round and round till its tenacious
fibers gave way； and then threw it down and began to descend； thinking
he had done enough； but on being spoken to he went to work again with
great vigor； picked out all the ripe nuts on the tree； twisted them all
off； and then came down in a thoroughly bad； sulky； temper。 He was
walking erect； and it seemed discourteous not to go and thank him for
all his hard toil。
As I write I see a fascinating sight： three black apes sitting under
the roof in such a position that I can only see their faces； and they
are all leaning their chins on a beam； and with their wrinkled faces
and gray beards are looking exactly like …。 It is most interesting
to be among wild beasts； which； though tame； or partly so； are not in
captivity； and to see their great sagacity and their singular likeness
and unlikeness to us。 I could dispense with the reptiles； though。 Last
night there were seventeen lizards in my room and two in my slippers。
During the profound stillness of about 3 A。M。； a crowd； hooting；
yelling； and beating clappers； passed not far off in the darkness； and
there was a sound of ravaging and rending caused by a herd of elephants
which had broken into the banana grounds。
Besides apes； elephants； dogs； and other pets； there are some fine
jungle…fowls； a pheasant； a 〃fire…back；〃 I think； and an argus pheasant
of glorious beauty； but glorious is not quite the word either； for the
hundred…eyed feathers of its tail are painted rather in browns than
colors。 These birds are under the charge of a poor Chinaman； who once
had money； but has gone to complete ruin from opium…smoking。 His frame
is reduced to a skeleton covered with skin。 I never saw such emaciation
even in an advanced stage of illness。
Just now I saw Mahmoud and Eblis walk into my room； and shortly
following them； I found that Mahmoud had drawn a pillow to the foot of
the bed； and was lying comfortably with his head upon it； and that
Eblis was lying at the other end。 I do hope that you will not be tired
of the apes。 To me they are so intensely interesting that I cannot help
writing about them。 Eblis has been feverish for some days。 I think he
has never recovered from the thrashing he got the day I came。 He is
pining and growing very weak； he eats nothing but little bits of
banana； and Mr。 Low thinks he is sure to die。 It is a curious fact that
these apes； which are tamed by living with Europeans； acquire a great
aversion to Malays。
February 19。Eblis became much worse while I was out yesterday； and I
fear will surely die。 He can hardly hold anything in his cold； feeble
hands； and eats nothing。 He has a strangely human； faraway look； just
what one sees in the eyes of children who have nearly done with this
world。
The heat is much greater to…day； there is less breeze； and the mercury
has reached 90 degrees； but in the absence of mosquitoes； and with
pine…apples and bananas always at hand； one gets on very well。 But
mosquitoes do embitter existence and interfere with work。 Apparently；
people never become impervious to the poison； as I thought they did；
and there is not a Malay in his mat hut； or a Chinese coolie in his
crowded barrack； who has not his mosquito curtains； and I have already
mentioned that the Malays light fires under their houses to smoke them
away。 Last night a malignant and hideous insect； above an inch long； of
the bug species； appeared。 The bite of this is as severe as the sting
of a hornet。
The jungle seems to be full of wild beasts； specially tigers； in this
neighborhood； and the rhinoceros is not uncommon。 Its horn is worth
15； but Rajah Muda Yusuf； who desires to have a monopoly of them； says
that there are horns with certain peculiar markings which can be sold
to the Chinese for 500* each to be powdered and used as medicine。 Wild
elephants are abundant； but； like the rhinoceros； they ravage the deep
recesses of the jungle。 All the tame elephants here； however； were
once wild； including the fifty which； with swords； dragons； bells；
krises with gold scabbards； and a few other gold articles； formed the
Perak regalia。 The herds are hunted with tame； steady elephants； and on
a likely one being singled out； he is driven by slow degrees into a
strong inclosure； and there attached by stout rattan ropes to an
experienced old elephant； and fed on meager diet for some weeks； varied
with such dainties as sugar…cane and sweet cakes。 The captive is
allowed to go and bathe； and plaster himself with mud； all the while
secured to his tame companion； and though he makes the most desperate
struggles for liberty； he always ends by giving in； and being led back
to his fastenings in the corral。 At times a man gets upon him； sits on
his head； and walks upon his back。 It is here generally about two years
before an elephant is regarded as thoroughly broken in and to be
trusted； and； as elsewhere； stories are told of elephant revenge and
keepers being killed。 A full…grown elephant requires about 200 lbs。 of
food a day。 These animals are destructive to the cocoa…nut trees； and
when they get an opportunity they put their heads against them； and
then； with a queer swaying movement throw the weight of their bodies
over and over again against the stem till the palm comes down with a
crash； and the dainty monster regales himself with the blossoms and the
nuts。 The Malays pet and caress them； and talk to them as they do to
their buffaloes。 Half a ton is considered a sufficient load for a
journey if it be metal or anything which goes into small compass； but
if the burden be bulky； from four to six hundred weight is enough。
Except where there are rivers or roads suitable for bullock…carts or
pack bullocks； they do nearly all the carrying trade of Perak； carrying
loads on 〃elephant tracks〃 through the jungle。 An elephant always puts
his foot into the hole which another elephant's foot has made； so that
a frequented track is nothing but a series of pits filled with mud and
water。 Trying to get along one of these I was altogether baffled； for
it had no verge。 The jungle presented an impassable wall of dense
vegetation on either side； the undergrowth and trees being matted
together by the stout； interminable strands of the rattan and other
tenacious creepers； including a thorn…bearing one； known among the
Malays as 〃tigers' claws；〃 from the curved hook of the thorn。 I think I
made my way for about seven feet。 This was a favorable specimen of a
jungle track； and I now understand how the Malays； by felling two or
three trees； so that they lay across similar and worse roads； were able
to delay the British troops at a given spot for a day at a time。
＇*It is possible that this was an exaggeration； and that the real price
is 50。＇
One might think that elephants roaming at large would render
cultivation impossible； but they have the greatest horror of anything
that looks like a fence； and though they are almost powerful enough to
break down a strong stockade； a slight fence of reeds usually keeps
them out of padi； cane； and maize plantations。
Malays are gradually coming into Perak。 It is said that there has been
recently a large immigration from Selangor。 The Malay population is
fifty…seven thousand nearly； with a large preponderance of males； but
fifty…eight thousand have crowded into the little strip of land called
Province Wellesley； which is altogether under British rule； and
sixty…seven thousand into Malacca； which has the same advantage。 I
suppose that slavery and polygamy have had something to do with the
diminution of the population； as well as small…pox。 Formerly large
armies of fighting men could be raised in these States。 Islamism is
always antagonistic to national progress。 It seems to petrify or
congeal national life； placing each individual in the position of a
member of a pure theocracy； rather than in that of a patriotic citizen
of