colorless shade。 To and fro； up and down； we poled over the tragic
waters till I actually felt a terror far beyond eeriness taking
possession of me。
It grew grayer and darker； and we went back for Captain Walker； who；
with the absorption of a true sportsman； had hardly noticed the falling
shadows。 It was a relief to hear the human voice once more。 It broke
the worst spell I was ever bound by。 As he came out on the branch to
get into the canoe it gave way； and he fell into the water up to his
chin。 Then the boat pole broke； so that when we got back to the padi it
was obvious that 〃the dark〃 was coming 〃at one stride；〃 and I suggested
that； as we had two miles to walk and a river to cross at night； and we
should certainly be very late for dinner； Mr。 Low might become uneasy
about us； as we were both strangers and unable to speak the language；
but Captain Walker thought differently。
There had been so much rain that it was heavy wading through the padi；
and it was quite dark when we reached the jungle； in which the rain had
made the footing very precarious； and in darkness we forded the swollen
stream； and stumbled along the shore of the Perak； where fireflies in
thousands were flashing among the bushesa beautiful sight。 When we
reached the bank of the river where we had left the canoe we found
several Malays； who laughed and seemed singularly pleased to see us；
and talked vociferously to our men； i。e。； vociferously for Malays； who
are in the habit of speaking quietly。 It was very difficult to get down
the steep； slippery bank； into a precarious canoe which I could not
see； and so thick was the darkness that I sat down in the water between
the two gridirons； and had to remain there during the crossing； which
took a long time； being against the stream。
When we landed； a Sikh sergeant met us； very much excited。 He spoke
Malayan； and I guessed from a few words that I knew that there was a
hue and cry at the Residency。 You know how all pleasure is at once
spoiled when； after you have been enjoying yourself very much； you find
that people at home have been restless and uneasy about you； and as it
is one of my traveling principles to avoid being a bother to people； I
was very sorry。 We found a general state of perturbation。 Major
Swinburne； who was leaning over the veranda； received us with some very
pungent objurgations； and told us that Mr。 Low was out and very
anxious。 I was covered with mire； and wet from head to foot； and
disappeared； but when we sat down to the long…delayed dinner I saw from
Mr。 Low's silence and gloomy manner that he had been really much
annoyed； however； he recovered himself； and we had a very lively
evening of conversation and discussion； though I had a good deal of
pain from the inflamed bites of the bloodsuckers in the swamp。 Malay
scouting parties had been sent in various directions。 Rajah Dris was
away with one； and the Sikh police were all ready to do nobody knows
what； as there were no dogs。 Major Swinburne said that his fears did
not travel farther than the river； which he thinks is dangerous to
cross at night in a 〃dug…out；〃 but Mr。 Low had before him the
possibility of our having been assailed by bad characters； or of our
having encountered a tiger in the jungle； and of my having been carried
off from my inability to climb a tree！
Eblis is surely dying。 He went to the roof； where the half…tamed
siamang was supporting him hour after hour as gently as a mother would
support a sick child。 This wild ape has been very gentle and good to
Eblis ever since he became ill。 I went out for a short time with Mr。
Low； and on returning he called Eblis； but the little thing was too
weak to come； and began to cry feebly； on which the wild ape took him
by one of his hands； put an arm round him； gently led him to a place
from which he could drop upon Mr。 Low's chair； and then darted away；
but while daylight lasted was looking anxiously at Eblis； and at 6 A。M。
had so far conquered his timidity that he sat on the window…sill behind
Mr。 Low； that he might watch his sick friend。 The little bewitching
thing； which is much emaciated； clings to its master now the whole
time； unlike other animals； which hide themselves when they are ill；
puts out its feeble little arms to him with a look of unspeakable
affection on its poor； pinched face； and murmurs in a feeble voice ouf！
ouf！ Mr。 Low pours a few drops of milk down its throat every half hour；
and if he puts it down for a moment； it screams like a baby and
stretches out its thin hands。
It is very interesting and pleasant to see the relations which exist
between Mr。 Low and the Malays。 At this moment three Rajahs are lying
about on the veranda； and their numerous followers are clustered on and
about the stairs。 He never raises his voice to a native； and they look
as if they like him； and from their laughter and cheeriness they must
be perfectly at ease with him。 He is altogether devoted to the
interests of Perak； and fully carries out his instructions；* which
were； 〃to look upon Perak as a native State ultimately to be governed
by native Rajahs；〃 whom he is to endeavor to educate and advise
〃without interfering with the religion or custom of the country。〃 He
obviously attempts to train and educate these men in the principles and
practice of good government； so that they shall be able to rule firmly
and justly。 Perak is likely to become the most important State of the
Peninsula； and I earnestly hope that Mr。 Low's wise and patient efforts
will bring forth good fruit； at all events in Rajah Dris。
＇*See Appendix A。＇
Mr。 Low is only a little over fifty now； and when he first came the
Rajahs told him that they were 〃glad that the Queen had sent them an
_old_ gentleman！〃 He is excessively cautious； and； like most people who
have had dealings with Orientals； is possibly somewhat suspicious； but
his caution is combined with singular kindness of heart； and an almost
faulty generosity regarding his own concerns； as； for instance； he
refuses to send his servants to prison when they rob him； saying： 〃Poor
fellows！ they know no better。〃 He is just as patiently forbearing to
the apes。 Mr。 … told me that he had made a very clean and careful
copy of a dispatch to Lord Carnarvon； when Mahmoud dipped his fingers
in the ink and drew them over a whole page； and he only took him in his
arms and said： 〃Poor creature； you've given me a great deal of trouble；
but you know no better。〃
This is my last evening here； and I am so sorry。 It is truly 〃the
wilds。〃 There is rest。 Then the apes are delightful companions； and
there are all sorts of beasts； and birds； and creeping things； from
elephants downward。 The scenery and vegetation of the neighborhood are
beautiful； the quiet Malay life which passes before one in a series of
pictures is very interesting； and the sight of wise and righteous rule
carried on before one's eyes； with a total absence of humbug and
red…tapeism； and which never leaves out of sight the training of the
Malays to rule themselves； is always pleasing。 I like Kwala Kangsa
better than any place that I have been at in Asia； and am
proportionately sorrier to leave it。 Mr。 Low would have sent me up the
Perak in the Dragon boat； and over the mountains into Kinta on
elephants； if I could have stayed； but I cannot live longer without
your letters； and they； alas！ are at Colombo。 Mr。 Low kindly expresses
regret at my going； and says he has got quite used to my being here；
and added： 〃You never speak at the wrong time。 When men are visiting me
they never know when to be quiet； but bother one in the middle of
business。〃 This is most amusing； for it would be usually said： 〃Women
never know when to be quiet。〃 Mr。 Maxwell one day said； that when men
were with him he could 〃get nothing done for their clatter。〃 I wished
to start at 4 A。M。 to…morrow； to get the coolness before sunrise； but
there are so many tigers about just now in the jungle through which the
road passes； that it is not considered prudent for me to leave before
six； when they will have retired to their lairs。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXII
A Pleasant CanterA Morning HymnThe Pass of Bukit BerapitThe
〃Wearing World〃 Again！A Bad SpiritMalay Demonology〃Running
Amuck〃An Amok…Runner's CareerThe Supposed Origin of AmokJungle
Openings in PerakDebt…SlaveryThe Fate of Three Runaway
SlavesMoslem Prayers〃Living Like Leeches〃Malay ProverbsA
〃Ten…Thousand…Man Umbrella〃
BRITISH RESIDENCY； TAIPENG； February 21。
I am once again on this breezy hill； watching the purple cloud…shadows
sail over the level expanse of tree…tops and mangroves； having
accomplished in about four hours the journey； which took nearly twelve
in going up。 The sun was not up when I left the bungalow at Kwala
Kangsa this morning。 I rode a capital pony； on Mr。 Low's English
saddle； a Malay orderly on horseback escorting me； and the royal
elephant carried my luggage。 It was absurd to see this huge beast lie
down merely to receive my little valise and canvas roll； with a small
accumulation of Malacca canes； mats； krises； tigers' teeth and claws；
and an elephant's tusk； the whole not weighing 100 lbs。
Mr。 Low was already at his work；