of this island lived from the present time； is afforded by the
stone heads of arrows which are very frequently picked up。 The
people call them Elf…bolts； and believe that the fairies shoot them
at the cattle。 They nearly resemble those which Mr。 Banks has
lately brought from the savage countries in the Pacifick Ocean； and
must have been made by a nation to which the use of metals was
unknown。
The number of this little community has never been counted by its
ruler； nor have I obtained any positive account； consistent with
the result of political computation。 Not many years ago； the late
Laird led out one hundred men upon a military expedition。 The
sixth part of a people is supposed capable of bearing arms： Raasay
had therefore six hundred inhabitants。 But because it is not
likely； that every man able to serve in the field would follow the
summons； or that the chief would leave his lands totally
defenceless； or take away all the hands qualified for labour； let
it be supposed； that half as many might be permitted to stay at
home。 The whole number will then be nine hundred； or nine to a
square mile； a degree of populousness greater than those tracts of
desolation can often show。 They are content with their country；
and faithful to their chiefs； and yet uninfected with the fever of
migration。
Near the house； at Raasay； is a chapel unroofed and ruinous； which
has long been used only as a place of burial。 About the churches；
in the Islands； are small squares inclosed with stone； which belong
to particular families； as repositories for the dead。 At Raasay
there is one； I think； for the proprietor； and one for some
collateral house。
It is told by Martin； that at the death of the Lady of the Island；
it has been here the custom to erect a cross。 This we found not to
be true。 The stones that stand about the chapel at a small
distance； some of which perhaps have crosses cut upon them； are
believed to have been not funeral monuments； but the ancient
boundaries of the sanctuary or consecrated ground。
Martin was a man not illiterate： he was an inhabitant of Sky； and
therefore was within reach of intelligence； and with no great
difficulty might have visited the places which he undertakes to
describe； yet with all his opportunities； he has often suffered
himself to be deceived。 He lived in the last century； when the
chiefs of the clans had lost little of their original influence。
The mountains were yet unpenetrated； no inlet was opened to foreign
novelties； and the feudal institution operated upon life with their
full force。 He might therefore have displayed a series of
subordination and a form of government； which； in more luminous and
improved regions； have been long forgotten； and have delighted his
readers with many uncouth customs that are now disused； and wild
opinions that prevail no longer。 But he probably had not knowledge
of the world sufficient to qualify him for judging what would
deserve or gain the attention of mankind。 The mode of life which
was familiar to himself； he did not suppose unknown to others； nor
imagined that he could give pleasure by telling that of which it
was； in his little country； impossible to be ignorant。
What he has neglected cannot now be performed。 In nations； where
there is hardly the use of letters； what is once out of sight is
lost for ever。 They think but little； and of their few thoughts；
none are wasted on the past； in which they are neither interested
by fear nor hope。 Their only registers are stated observances and
practical representations。 For this reason an age of ignorance is
an age of ceremony。 Pageants； and processions； and commemorations；
gradually shrink away； as better methods come into use of recording
events； and preserving rights。
It is not only in Raasay that the chapel is unroofed and useless；
through the few islands which we visited； we neither saw nor heard
of any house of prayer； except in Sky； that was not in ruins。 The
malignant influence of Calvinism has blasted ceremony and decency
together； and if the remembrance of papal superstition is
obliterated； the monuments of papal piety are likewise effaced。
It has been； for many years； popular to talk of the lazy devotion
of the Romish clergy； over the sleepy laziness of men that erected
churches； we may indulge our superiority with a new triumph； by
comparing it with the fervid activity of those who suffer them to
fall。
Of the destruction of churches； the decay of religion must in time
be the consequence； for while the publick acts of the ministry are
now performed in houses； a very small number can be present； and as
the greater part of the Islanders make no use of books； all must
necessarily live in total ignorance who want the opportunity of
vocal instruction。
From these remains of ancient sanctity； which are every where to be
found； it has been conjectured； that； for the last two centuries；
the inhabitants of the Islands have decreased in number。 This
argument； which supposes that the churches have been suffered to
fall； only because they were no longer necessary； would have some
force； if the houses of worship still remaining were sufficient for
the people。 But since they have now no churches at all； these
venerable fragments do not prove the people of former times to have
been more numerous； but to have been more devout。 If the
inhabitants were doubled with their present principles； it appears
not that any provision for publick worship would be made。 Where
the religion of a country enforces consecrated buildings； the
number of those buildings may be supposed to afford some
indication； however uncertain； of the populousness of the place；
but where by a change of manners a nation is contented to live
without them； their decay implies no diminution of inhabitants。
Some of these dilapidations are said to be found in islands now
uninhabited； but I doubt whether we can thence infer that they were
ever peopled。 The religion of the middle age； is well known to
have placed too much hope in lonely austerities。 Voluntary
solitude was the great act of propitiation； by which crimes were
effaced； and conscience was appeased； it is therefore not unlikely；
that oratories were often built in places where retirement was sure
to have no disturbance。
Raasay has little that can detain a traveller； except the Laird and
his family； but their power wants no auxiliaries。 Such a seat of
hospitality； amidst the winds and waters； fills the imagination
with a delightful contrariety of images。 Without is the rough
ocean and the rocky land； the beating billows and the howling
storm： within is plenty and elegance； beauty and gaiety； the song
and the dance。 In Raasay； if I could have found an Ulysses； I had
fancied a Phoeacia。
DUNVEGAN
At Raasay； by good fortune； Macleod； so the chief of the clan is
called； was paying a visit； and by him we were invited to his seat
at Dunvegan。 Raasay has a stout boat； built in Norway； in which；
with six oars； he conveyed us back to Sky。 We landed at Port Re；
so called； because James the Fifth of Scotland； who had curiosity
to visit the Islands； came into it。 The port is made by an inlet
of the sea； deep and narrow； where a ship lay waiting to dispeople
Sky； by carrying the natives away to America。
In coasting Sky； we passed by the cavern in which it was the
custom； as Martin relates； to catch birds in the night； by making a
fire at the entrance。 This practice is disused； for the birds； as
is known often to happen； have changed their haunts。
Here we dined at a publick house； I believe the only inn of the
island； and having mounted our horses； travelled in the manner
already described； till we came to Kingsborough； a place
distinguished by that name； because the King lodged here when he
landed at Port Re。 We were entertained with the usual hospitality
by Mr。 Macdonald and his lady； Flora Macdonald； a name that will be
mentioned in history； and if courage and fidelity be virtues；
mentioned with honour。 She is a woman of middle stature； soft
features； gentle manners； and elegant presence。
In the morning we sent our horses round a promontory to meet us；
and spared ourselves part of the day's fatigue； by crossing an arm
of the sea。 We had at last some difficulty in coming to Dunvegan；
for our way led over an extensive moor； where every step was to be
taken with caution； and we were often obliged to alight； because
the ground could not be trusted。 In travelling this watery flat； I
perceived that it had a visible declivity； and might without much
expence or difficulty be drained。 But difficulty and expence are
relative terms； which have different meanings in different places。
To Dunvegan we came； very willing to be at rest； and found our
fatigue amply recompensed by our reception。 Lady Macleod； who had
lived many years in England； was newly come hither with her son and
four daughters； who knew all the arts of southern elegance； and all
the modes of English economy。 Here therefore we settled； and did
not spoil the present hour with thoughts of departure。
Dunvegan is a rocky prominence； that juts out into a bay； on t