snatch some happy intermission to be conveyed to Mull； the third
Island of the Hebrides； lying about a degree south of Sky； whence
we might easily find our way to Inch Kenneth； where Sir Allan
Maclean resided； and afterward to Jona。
For this purpose； the most commodious station that we could take
was Armidel； which Sir Alexander Macdonald had now left to a
gentleman； who lived there as his factor or steward。
In our way to Armidel was Coriatachan； where we had already been；
and to which therefore we were very willing to return。 We staid
however so long at Talisker； that a great part of our journey was
performed in the gloom of the evening。 In travelling even thus
almost without light thro' naked solitude； when there is a guide
whose conduct may be trusted； a mind not naturally too much
disposed to fear； may preserve some degree of cheerfulness； but
what must be the solicitude of him who should be wandering； among
the craggs and hollows； benighted； ignorant； and alone？
The fictions of the Gothick romances were not so remote from
credibility as they are now thought。 In the full prevalence of the
feudal institution； when violence desolated the world； and every
baron lived in a fortress； forests and castles were regularly
succeeded by each other； and the adventurer might very suddenly
pass from the gloom of woods； or the ruggedness of moors； to seats
of plenty； gaiety； and magnificence。 Whatever is imaged in the
wildest tale； if giants； dragons； and enchantment be excepted；
would be felt by him； who； wandering in the mountains without a
guide； or upon the sea without a pilot； should be carried amidst
his terror and uncertainty； to the hospitality and elegance of
Raasay or Dunvegan。
To Coriatachan at last we came； and found ourselves welcomed as
before。 Here we staid two days； and made such inquiries as
curiosity suggested。 The house was filled with company； among whom
Mr。 Macpherson and his sister distinguished themselves by their
politeness and accomplishments。 By him we were invited to Ostig； a
house not far from Armidel； where we might easily hear of a boat；
when the weather would suffer us to leave the Island。
OSTIG IN SKY
At Ostig； of which Mr。 Macpherson is minister； we were entertained
for some days； then removed to Armidel； where we finished our
observations on the island of Sky。
As this Island lies in the fifty…seventh degree； the air cannot be
supposed to have much warmth。 The long continuance of the sun
above the horizon； does indeed sometimes produce great heat in
northern latitudes； but this can only happen in sheltered places；
where the atmosphere is to a certain degree stagnant； and the same
mass of air continues to receive for many hours the rays of the
sun； and the vapours of the earth。 Sky lies open on the west and
north to a vast extent of ocean； and is cooled in the summer by
perpetual ventilation； but by the same blasts is kept warm in
winter。 Their weather is not pleasing。 Half the year is deluged
with rain。 From the autumnal to the vernal equinox； a dry day is
hardly known； except when the showers are suspended by a tempest。
Under such skies can be expected no great exuberance of vegetation。
Their winter overtakes their summer； and their harvest lies upon
the ground drenched with rain。 The autumn struggles hard to
produce some of our early fruits。 I gathered gooseberries in
September； but they were small； and the husk was thick。
Their winter is seldom such as puts a full stop to the growth of
plants； or reduces the cattle to live wholly on the surplusage of
the summer。 In the year Seventy…one they had a severe season；
remembered by the name of the Black Spring； from which the island
has not yet recovered。 The snow lay long upon the ground； a
calamity hardly known before。 Part of their cattle died for want；
part were unseasonably sold to buy sustenance for the owners； and；
what I have not read or heard of before； the kine that survived
were so emaciated and dispirited； that they did not require the
male at the usual time。 Many of the roebucks perished。
The soil； as in other countries； has its diversities。 In some
parts there is only a thin layer of earth spread upon a rock； which
bears nothing but short brown heath； and perhaps is not generally
capable of any better product。 There are many bogs or mosses of
greater or less extent； where the soil cannot be supposed to want
depth； though it is too wet for the plow。 But we did not observe
in these any aquatick plants。 The vallies and the mountains are
alike darkened with heath。 Some grass； however； grows here and
there； and some happier spots of earth are capable of tillage。
Their agriculture is laborious； and perhaps rather feeble than
unskilful。 Their chief manure is seaweed； which； when they lay it
to rot upon the field； gives them a better crop than those of the
Highlands。 They heap sea shells upon the dunghill； which in time
moulder into a fertilising substance。 When they find a vein of
earth where they cannot use it； they dig it up； and add it to the
mould of a more commodious place。
Their corn grounds often lie in such intricacies among the craggs；
that there is no room for the action of a team and plow。 The soil
is then turned up by manual labour； with an instrument called a
crooked spade； of a form and weight which to me appeared very
incommodious； and would perhaps be soon improved in a country where
workmen could be easily found and easily paid。 It has a narrow
blade of iron fixed to a long and heavy piece of wood； which must
have； about a foot and a half above the iron； a knee or flexure
with the angle downwards。 When the farmer encounters a stone which
is the great impediment of his operations； he drives the blade
under it； and bringing the knee or angle to the ground； has in the
long handle a very forcible lever。
According to the different mode of tillage； farms are distinguished
into long land and short land。 Long land is that which affords
room for a plow； and short land is turned up by the spade。
The grain which they commit to the furrows thus tediously formed；
is either oats or barley。 They do not sow barley without very
copious manure； and then they expect from it ten for one； an
increase equal to that of better countries； but the culture is so
operose that they content themselves commonly with oats； and who
can relate without compassion； that after all their diligence they
are to expect only a triple increase？ It is in vain to hope for
plenty； when a third part of the harvest must be reserved for seed。
When their grain is arrived at the state which they must consider
as ripeness； they do not cut； but pull the barley： to the oats
they apply the sickle。 Wheel carriages they have none； but make a
frame of timber； which is drawn by one horse with the two points
behind pressing on the ground。 On this they sometimes drag home
their sheaves； but often convey them home in a kind of open panier；
or frame of sticks upon the horse's back。
Of that which is obtained with so much difficulty； nothing surely
ought to be wasted； yet their method of clearing their oats from
the husk is by parching them in the straw。 Thus with the genuine
improvidence of savages； they destroy that fodder for want of which
their cattle may perish。 From this practice they have two petty
conveniences。 They dry the grain so that it is easily reduced to
meal； and they escape the theft of the thresher。 The taste
contracted from the fire by the oats； as by every other scorched
substance； use must long ago have made grateful。 The oats that are
not parched must be dried in a kiln。
The barns of Sky I never saw。 That which Macleod of Raasay had
erected near his house was so contrived； because the harvest is
seldom brought home dry； as by perpetual perflation to prevent the
mow from heating。
Of their gardens I can judge only from their tables。 I did not
observe that the common greens were wanting； and suppose； that by
choosing an advantageous exposition； they can raise all the more
hardy esculent plants。 Of vegetable fragrance or beauty they are
not yet studious。 Few vows are made to Flora in the Hebrides。
They gather a little hay； but the grass is mown late； and is so
often almost dry and again very wet； before it is housed； that it
becomes a collection of withered stalks without taste or fragrance；
it must be eaten by cattle that have nothing else； but by most
English farmers would be thrown away。
In the Islands I have not heard that any subterraneous treasures
have been discovered； though where there are mountains； there are
commonly minerals。 One of the rocks in Col has a black vein；
imagined to consist of the ore of lead； but it was never yet opened
or essayed。 In Sky a black mass was accidentally picked up； and
brought into the house of the owner of the land； who found himself
strongly inclined to think it a coal； but unhappily it did not burn
in the chimney。 Common ores would be here of no great value； for
what requires to be separated by fire； must； if it were found； be
carried away in its mineral state； here being no fewel for the
smelting…house or forge。 Pe